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Found 16 results

  1. Hi, We were planning a frame with 140mm Frametherm 32 between the studs and 40mm PIR over the studs to get a quoted U-Value of 0.14. Apparently there is a shortage of Frametherm 32 and so they have changed the spec to 70mm PIR between the studs and 50mm over. Using Kingspan K12 with a 0.02 thermal conductivity I do not get 0.14 U-Value. which I have not queried yet. However, when offered the option of PIR fill I suggested changing to the 0.11 U-Value option which I had previously discounted due to the thicker wall. This would be 140mm full fill PIR and 50mm over, which does give a 0.11 U-Value. TBH the difference between 0.14 and 0.11 does not pay for itself, around one third if the outside walls are windows, but I feel that thicker full fill insulation should be better for a modest extra cost. However, I am wondering if using only PIR could cause any issues. I liked the idea of a mix of PIR and Frametherm as the Frametherm will help with noise insulation and decrement delay. Should I be concerned re noise or decrement delay with only PIR. The wall build up will be render on render board, 50mm cavity, 9mm OSB, 140mm stud with 140mm PIR, 50mm PIR over stud, 35mm service cavity and then Fermacell. Maybe the extra weight of the Fermacell means that I do not have to worry. The builder was somewhat incredulous about using Fermacell instead of plasterboard. I did wonder if an alternative to get some of the benefit of a different kind of insulation in the wall is to put 25mm acoustic insulation in the service cavity. I am also wondering if I take the walls down to 0.11 am I getting to the point where at least we do no need heating upstairs. We will have roughly 0.1 floor, 0.11 walls, 0.7 windows and 013 roof(maybe a bit better if we can get more insulation in). The only issue is that of 225 square metres of outside wall, 70 is windows and doors which increases the heat loss, although most of the windows are downstairs. Ex the hall, which is double height, only around 15% of upstairs wall is window.
  2. Hello all. New to the forum. We are building a detached house on a hill just outside Bude. It will be as well insulated and airtight as we can afford and will incorporate many energy saving features. I am here to learn from people who have more experience at this than I do. cheers, Greg
  3. Hi Guys, I'm about to plasterboard my utility room, and need some help choosing the correct plasterboard type. The drawing call for fireline plasterboard throughout, but do you think moisture resistant plasterboard would be better for a utility room? Thanks!
  4. I am using my time working from home to try and finalise the plans for my parents' house so that we can hopefully get started asap once life gets back to normal. I have spoken to a couple of timber frame companies and I also chatted a bit to @Jeremy Harris re his MBC frame. I am seeing frames with 140mm, 184 and 235mm studs as well as the 300mm twin wall systems as used by MBC and some others. We have drawn up the plans with a 400mm wall thickness, and have a width restriction. So we could use a 300mm frame plus render board, or we could use a 140mm frame plus PIR and rockwool or a thicker frame from some suppliers. Having run the heat input calculations, the wall u-values don't make much difference. The house has a lot of glass and I plan to have around 0.1 on the floor and roof. Thus whether the walls are 0.11 or 0.13 or 0.15 hardly makes any difference to heating costs. I am thinking more about other things such as noise, sturdiness etc. Jeremy has said how quiet his house is for example. My last house was timber frame plus rendered blockwork, but I think it was only a standard 90mm stud as mainly used 20 years ago. The house was quite noisy and creaked in strong winds. So would I notice a big difference between different stud thicknesses and different cladding systems or is it more about the detailing and the sealing of all the gaps. Also looking at the quotes as they come in, we could end up with quite a lot of steel, should I be worried about the cold bridging or can it be well insulated within the frame? One more question (copyright Columbo) - Most of the timber frame systems seem to allow for a 35mm batten then plasterboard to create a service void. If we avoid pipework and sockets on some outside walls to remove the void would we notice any other diffference? Does the void help to reduce noise transfer through the wall for example?
  5. Hey everyone! So happy to find this site. My husband Ben and I are building a house on Bantaskin Street in Maryhill, in the city of Glasgow. That's right - in the city! We are right by the canal,, and the river, with a view of the Campsies. So there are 6 self builders in total - we have bought the plot and moved onsite in to our static caravan a few months back. We are building the house ourselves. Ben is a carpenter and I am an animator/film maker. We run a creative agency together and have completed a couple of very successful renovations together here in Glasgow. We have designed the house ourselves. Ben and his friend/colleague Craig will be doing all the carpentry onsite (hopefully on the slab, later this year) and erecting the Douglas Fir timber frame, along with the help of some more strong people, and perhaps a crane. Glasgow City Council have initiated this project and plan to do a lot more, but we are the guinea pigs. So far so good: We bought our plot which is 600m2 for 45k. The plots are serviced. Well...almost serviced. There is a little work to be done, but it's basically there. Our build budget is 175k (max) - we simply cannot go any more than this. I think we can do it for 140k. We are brave and resourceful people! We are currently trying to finalise our foundations and trying to find someone who will do all of the following: Clear/scrape the site, dig the holes/piles/build the ringbeam/pour the slab. Could you guys advise...? Are we best to find someone for each stage? Which parts could we do ourselves? Should we bring in one company to do all of this? We dont want to spend 20-30k on founds as our house is simple and small (100m2 on the ground, 150m2 including the mezz). Anyway happy to be here and would love thoughts, ideas, comments...all of it! Attaching our designs. Joanna
  6. cbk

    Hello

    Hi after mamy renovation projects that never quite ended up being our dream house, finally taking the plunge with a new build. Took 5 yrs to find a plot but at last we found a perfect spot in Shropshire and I'm now beginning to realise that a self build offers unlimited choice, so unless I'm very careful I probably won't be able to afford that dream house anyway. Came across this site yesterday and it seems to offer a wealth of really good advice learned the hard way. So I'm hoping to learn from the best and see if I can get a bit closer to that ideal dream house this time.
  7. Good morning! I'm Nick and have been looking seriously for a Scottish plot for about eight years. We finally bought one in June, got planning and are now in for the building warrant. I aspired to passive house standard but views (east), the slope of the site (north) and planning (one storey only) mean it will fall a bit short (but not badly). I'm currently trying to find a small wood burner (insurance against electricity outage and north Atlantic drift switching off) to DIBt standard - apart from the possible Morso S11 with modifications - I'd be interested to know what smalll stove Joe90 refered to...
  8. Hi - I am a first time self-builder - now the owner of a small garden plot in an edge of village location. We have detailed planning permission for a 3 bed house, designed on "Passivhaus principles". Aiming to start on site early next year (2020)
  9. Hi all, joined this forum for hopefully getting some good advice regarding a possible self build we have coming up. Really like the idea of a log cabin, interlocking timber kit house. Be keen to hear from anyone who has built similar with regards to planning and building regs thanks Michael and heather
  10. Hi everyone. We are over the moon that we have a plot, and we have planning and are now in the challenging stage of budgeting and deciding who to go with. I have spent several hours now on this site audit has been invaluable with so far, so hoping you can help with this. We have decided on timber frame over SIPS. Would anyone be happy to share their views on the frame companies they looked at, who they chose and how it has gone for them with that supplier? I know what you are promised if not always what is delivered and I would love all the good and bad stories. I would also love some tips on what to look out for so that we compare like with like. I would be particularly interested in views on MBC too, if you have gone with them and if you didn't, why not. Many thanks indeed. Jo
  11. Calling all people with past or current experience in timber frame and brick and block construction.  As part of my degree I am required to research a topic of my choice. My chosen area is; productivity in housebuilding. I am trying to determine why brick and block cavity wall construction still remains the most dominant method of construction for house builders. It would be much appreciated if you or anyone with experience in this field could please complete my short questionnaire. Simply click on the link below, it comprises 12 questions and will take less than 3 minutes of your time to answer. I am more than happy to share the results with anyone who would be interested The information you provide will anonymous and will be treated with the strictest confidence. Please pass on or share to anyone who would be able to help.  Thanks in advance. https://www.quicksurveys.com/tqsruntime/main?surveyData=r4lva2rxrwxQVGKkc7VdDr4ScfR0NkzsWxj1PYyl1SP0pqFJPiLmStZ659V5n7R8
  12. Calling all people with past or current experience in timber frame and traditional construction. As part of my degree I am required to research a topic of my choice. My chosen area is; productivity in housebuilding. I am trying to determine why brick and block cavity wall construction still remains the most dominant method of construction for house builders. It would be much appreciated if you or anyone with experience in this field could please complete my short questionnaire. Simply click on the link below, it comprises 12 questions and will take less than 3 minutes of your time to answer. I am more than happy to share the results with anyone who would be interested The information you provide will anonymous and will be treated with the strictest confidence. Please pass on or share to anyone who would be able to help. Thanks in advance. https://www.quicksurveys.com/tqsruntime/main?surveyData=r4lva2rxrwxQVGKkc7VdDr4ScfR0NkzsWxj1PYyl1SP0pqFJPiLmStZ659V5n7R8
  13. We are just about to begin the planning application for our new house, had a positive pre app response from senior planner on design so fingers crossed for the next three months. Plot is in a high clay area solid for at least 2 meters deep if not more with a hefty load of flints for good measure. Plenty of trees and hedging on site also, hawthorn, plum, pear silver birch so foundations and slab are going to be interesting. Which frame company to go for, what heating style, windows etc. plenty of decisions to make if planning goes our way so will be looking through the posts for help on the way. Anyone else building in Nottinghamshire around Newark or Southwell? Chris
  14. Hello everyone, I came across this great Forum through JSHarris Blog (which was quite an amazing read to me). The first time ever that I found really usefull information in bulk, as a lot of the Info about so called "self building" is really just customised building (I tell the architect what i want and how it should look like at the end and then just empty a wheelbarrow of cash in front of his office every week) . My approach to building my own home is a little different, as I am German and as far back as I can remember I never heard about anyone buying an off-the-shelve home ( whats the point of someone else building YOUR house ) . That s until I moved to the UK, where it is the other way round (why would anyone go through the stress of building their own home if you can buy it off the shelf) . I hope I can learn bits and pieces here and also ask a few questions, as a few of you seem to be quite experienced and knowledgeable. It is always good to have advice from people who have done similar projects as there is a chance of avoiding costly mistakes here. So here I am , bought myself a plot of Land (came across it by accident, driving through the countryside in Wiltshire) with an old Timber Shed on it.(Shed is not quite the right word, as its footprint is around 130sqm) Wanted to renovate the Timber buidling (It s an old Assembley Hall ) and planned everything until I discovered that the foundations are too poor. So now I will have to knock the old down and build new. Which is an advantage somehow as I dont need to stick to any restrictions from the shape of the old building , but unfortunatley this will cost a fair bit more money (apparently Foundations are really expensive 😄 🤔 ) . The House going to be a 1 1/2 Storey Bungalow-Type 3 Bedroom with approx. 160sqm which we will try to build as energy efficient as possible on our tight budget.(We meaning Wife and Kids , although not planning to use the Kids as Labourers just yet 😛. It will be Timber frame, but unlike so many of you, I do not have the option to use a Kit (or SIPs ) , as there is no access for a Lorry, Crane or even a Van within 50-60 meters from the site. So it will have to be built on site (oldschool) . I am now looking into the details of how to get construction Plans together (not really Building regs, as this is not that difficult to figure out) for the actual building to start. Most guys here that have done a House themselves have used a Timber Frame KIT and where provided with Construction Plans by the company or, alternatively had these done by their architect. The Problem with Architects is(as discussed elsewhere) , that they are quite expensive and on top of that rely on others to work with them (Structural Engineer) to make the plans work. Quite a bit of information for an introduction post so i stop here and just leave it with some drawings and models of the House .
  15. Hi, I completed a new build last year and was fortunate enough to be able to borrow money from family to complete the build, not I am trying to mortgage it and have hit a blocker on the fact that many mortgage companies don't like Timberframe construction with a modern render system outer leaf. We used a closed panel Timber Frame which was then battened out and had Knauf Aquapanel and Knauf render applied to it, I am told by various people at Buildstore this is one of the best Render systems on the market and I am trying to find people who have been through mortgaging these types of build and who they used for the mortgages. I find it so frustrating how Lenders are so far behind the new techniques which are often a necessity to meet building codes.
  16. Is this a better solution to achieving Air Tightness, i.e. establishing air tightness on the external face of the timberframe? I have no affiliation to this company. This is an extract from their website: This product is Wraptite-SA, the only self-adhering vapour permeable air barrier certified by the BBA, was installed as part of the OSB panel construction of the home. The use of Wraptite-SA in the construction makes a significant contribution to a building’s thermal performance by preventing lateral air movement. It also provides high vapour permeability in a continuously sealed, self-adhered, airtight membrane. Unlike internal air barriers, which can be complex and costly to install due to the need to accommodate building services such as electrical, lighting, heating and drainage systems, Wraptite-SA was applied externally, quickly and easily to the OSB boards in continuous pieces