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Found 12 results

  1. Hi I've just had permission to build a large garden room 12m x 5m which will form a gym and entertainment room. It needs to be built to building regs due to size. It'll have a small kitchen/bathroom. I've spoken to numerous builders (some I know and some getting quotes) and each seems to suggest the best way to build is either SIPs, Blockwork or a timber frame. I'm not a builder so don't know which to choose. Can anyone advise on the benefits/negatives of each and which might be most cost-effective option please? Other questions: Would you go for an insulated concrete base? and with insulation under the concrete or over it? How do I make sure the floor is strong enough? If it was timber frame or blockwork what insulation would you use - PIR or other? Would you go for a warm roof or cold? Any other major considerations to think of? Thanks Rob
  2. Hi all, I have already posted a similar question in another forum but I decided I'll ask here as well. I would like to get to know as much as I can about building houses and extensions etc. I am looking for the most comprehensive resources (mainly books) that are available on the market. I want to learn as much as I can from arriving on site and clearing the site, digging the foundations, the civils, the waste, the storm water, the water connections, pouring the foundations, the rising walls, floor slabs, blockwork, brickwork, dry lining, skimming, plastering, plumbing, electrical, joinery, roofing, and everything in between. Any recommendations?
  3. The current job I'm on has a one block pillar to be built between a doorway (2m roughly) and a window (1.2m roughly). The engineer has specified a windpost for the pillar. Will I or should I put any sort of damp membrane on or around the windpost itself?
  4. I'm looking in to converting a detached garage to a living space. The wall construction is 200mm lightweight blockwork rendered externally. As the garage goes right up to the boundary my only option is internal wall insulation. I will need multiple things attached securely to the wall (toilet, boiler, sink etc) so I think insulated plasterboard is going to be too much of a pain to use. If I use internal studwork with foil backed PIR between studs does anyone have an idea of the best construction for this which will achieve a 0.28 u-value or lower to satisfy building regs? I was thinking of 100mm studs with 75mm foil backed insulation pressed up to block work 25mm void OSB board pattress where strong fixings are required 300GA Vapour Barrier 12.5mm Gyproc Wallboard Plaster Skim Questions are: Does this sound sensible? Would it be better to have insulation flush with front of studs? Can I use the 25m void to run cables/pipes?
  5. Hi there, looking for some advice on rough costs of block and render for a 1.5 storey self build, approx 13m x 6.5m. We’d originally planned to to timber cladding but I understand that getting mortgages for entirely timber clad houses can be tricky. We’re after a crisp, clean finish so might want to go with a silicone-based render, but happy to be advised otherwise! Thanks
  6. Hi everyone, I'm a bricklayer who's back on the trowel after several years away from the game and I must say I'm finding it tough. The physical side of it is fine (after a few hard weeks mind) but it's the information / theory side I'm finding most difficult. Even the bonding of blockwork (blockwork so far has been 80% of my work) I find a bit difficult being truthful. Has anybody had any similar experiences? How did they find it? Did you feel like I do sometimes, like your serving your time all over again? ? Would anybody recommend any literature for me to read? Also, regards to quantifying blocks - how would you do it? Lets say I was asked to build a block (440 x 215 x 100) on edge shed and they sent me the dimensions of the slab that they wanted it built on Do I just add the length and width of the proposed building, multiply this figure by 2 and then multiply that figure by how many courses high it is going? I then deduct the door and window from this figure. Now if they now wanted to change the spec of the shed to cavity work with a 100mm inner leaf, 100mm cavity and a 100mm outer leaf how would I calculate how many blocks they would need for the outer leaf? This is probably a really basic question but I just cant get me head around it! ? Genuine thanks for anybody who replies. Cheers, IR.
  7. Hello! I'm hoping to build a solid shed in our garden. The plan is to make it look like a small stone bothy or farm buidling so the roof will be pitched with slate and the walls blockwork and then faced with natural local stone. Before I ask loads of questions - has anyone on here done this? cheers Trev
  8. I cant get access to next doors or the adjacent property to build my garden room. I'm wondering if it's possible to build it all off the slab within the new build (8mx4m) Im trying to find out if its doable by building the external block work first then using a full fill cavity insulation as I'll not be able to use the original idea of 50mm kingspan. (cavity 100mm) Any advice would be massively appreciated.
  9. Hi, I’ve just been asked to price a job up in an industrial unit which consists mostly of 190 mm solid blocks (22 newtons) and that is the type and size of block which has been stipulated must be used. I was just wondering if anyone has any recent experience of walling these and knows an estimate price that I should be charging the customer for them walled per m2 as I haven’t come across this type of size block before? Cheers
  10. We have full planning permissions to demolish a stone built cottage and rebuild it with block and render. In addition we will extend, at the same time. Both the cottage and the extension will be a timber kit. The extension will give an addition 100% floor space to the property, and it will be clad in Siberian larch timber. We are currently trying to mortgage through Buildstore. They are quite adamant that any mortgage we take will require the extension to have a block work skin. Is this correct? Has anyone else come up against this? Is there a way round it?
  11. Does anyone know of a standard design guide for blockwork garden walls? In particular I'm keen to find out maximum heights (not from a planning perspective but structural) and supporting pier spacing requirements. I'm doing some digging later this week for drainage and services and whilst I'm at it would like to dig the foundation for a 15m long boundary wall I intend to build in the future. The wall will be around 2m high with the lower 400mm retaining earth on our side (just earth no additional loads within 5m). My plan was a 600mm footing with 140mm block - 100mm concrete fill cavity - 140mm block upto ground level and then 140x215mm block above laid on the flat with support piers when necessary. Any pointers much appreciated!
  12. There are a few restrictions around our design due to budget, skill and lenders. Before I meet with an architect I'm trying to work out the most info I can and some trying to gain some opinions on blockwork outer skin. The plan is for myself and my dad to lay the blocks then have someone more skilled render them So we are looking at a 150mm timber frame stuffed with rockwool at the moment with a blockwork skin, the best block summary I've found are here: http://www.greenspec.co.uk/building-design/blocks/ Currently a product called Fibolite seems to tick a lot of boxes for being light enough to lay and ok to render on? Are there any other options I should know about?
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