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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/13/24 in all areas

  1. Thanks all for the commentary. One further question: How long does the first claimer have 'dibs' on the site address? Had the explanation today from one supplier that the point of the system was to 'avoid them undercutting eachother'... I dunno, but as the customer I quite like the sound of undercutting... 😂 One chap accidentally put in a wrong address (still only a few miles away) and I've got a 10% price difference... I'm wondering if the only way to get multiple competitive prices for the same brick is to give each one you speak to a phoney, localish address - which can be merrily logged - and once you've picked your favourite then returning as a fresh customer with the right address... Not exactly cricket, but then again I'm not sure they're playing with a straight bat either!
    2 points
  2. WUFI is not for those with a faint heart! I did a full analysis of our wall build up looking for condensation using it and was relatively happy, 'this isn't so hard' I thought, but in the back of my mind I was concerned I hadn't got it right as I had some odd results I could not explain away. So decided to pay a professional - they soon put me straight - it was quite an eye opener! It turns out that for our application you need to focus on worst case zones so, in our case, low down & high up on the eastern side of the north face and ignore everywhere else. (This because the wall build up here is / was subtly different to everywhere else and North facing - something you could work out I suppose and nothing really to do with the software.) So taking an average for each elevation was, could have turned out to be, fatal. We were able to sort the problem by adjusting the build up slightly and using the 'intello' breathable membrane to remove the problem. I have, none the less, installed interstitial Temperature & Humidity sensors in the critical places so I can keep an eye on it!
    2 points
  3. Absolutely. Fairly unlikely your architect has the same deep knowledge of local planning, planners themselves, cases they can reference etc that a planning consultant has. I would speak to a consultant and briefly give them your idea of what you want and if it looks like a go-er engage an architect to draw up your design, perhaps prepare the design and access but get the planning consultant to submit your application along with the planning statement. They’ll do things like find and reference similar applications that were passed recently, cite proper planning policy in detail and - at the end of the day present your application as serious and professional. Planners won’t want to risk rejecting an application if it’s policy compliant in the event you appeal (and win). Most councils are nearing broke and expensive appeals costs are a priority concern for councillors that sit on planning committees. Good luck!
    1 point
  4. I have fitted a 22mm Plastic pipe into the wall, mounted at DHT22 on the end of a piece of 15mm pipe and put a RPi PICO on the other end to monitor temperature and Humidity, it is all behind a standard drylining socket box so I can access it and it is fed by a PoE CAT6 cable - power only data is by WiFi. Slide the 15mm pipe and DHT22 into the 22mm pipe, plug the Rpi into the Poe converter, close the wall box and job is done.
    1 point
  5. I would speak to a planning consultant that’s got a good history of applications with your local council. They will probably know the planners and might even know the planner that made the determination for the current application - it’s likely they would be assigned if you went in for another application. The consultant would have a good view of what the planner might say. Design can often be very subjective so can come down to the planner assigned. Also - read the current report from the planning officer and see what weight they gave to the design elements - if they called out how it was suitable as a traditional design for example it might give some insight into how much weight they gave it. I would recommend you definitely pursue the design you want; in the context of what you’ll spend on the build it would be money worth spent - especially if it’s not a design you’re particularly happy with.
    1 point
  6. Two things to research then: Converting from Temp/RH to Absolute Humidity (AH) Statistical Modelling
    1 point
  7. We have just bought on a site 10 minutes from our build. So we are lucky as it is mains everything. It's an ABI, and has been well looked after. Just two problems to fix which we will do when we move permanently next month.
    1 point
  8. I would keep the fixings you have and tighten them a little, so the washer is snug on the sheet.
    1 point
  9. 2 comments, hope they are not harsh, but whoever put that roof on did a poor job imho. Firstly none of the fixings are in line, that shows a lack of care. Secondly, I always fix that sort of roof on the ridges. Little water flows down the ridges, it falls into the flat valleys and runs down there, so you don't really want fixings in the flat valleys where there is more water and more chance to leak. Agreed the one photographed close up does not look very tight.
    1 point
  10. If that's an actual picture of one of your fixings, and not just a picture from the net, then it doesn't look like it's tight enough against the panel. The EPDM washer needs to be snug but not crushed.
    1 point
  11. Visited this place today - Little Morton Hall! Still up 500 years (ish) later. Spoke to the surveyor who says the tower moves a few mm (13) in a cycle over the year and depending weather, but its not sagging any more than it already had when they started measuring, which they do 3 x a year, 9 years back!
    1 point
  12. Woo hoo! I’m celebrating, I finally managed to produce a sensible looking ubakus wall build up dooberry thingy. Now I need my homework marked….. (should I be worried about the red colour on the drying reserve measure? It goes away if I turn off the PIR layer).
    1 point
  13. Well, I thought I’d feed back on all my investigations. Revising my earlier SIP figures, to include a cement board skin, the costs for the frame, not including barrier membranes, battening, cladding, PB or skim, roof trusses, and in the case of the SIPs, also excluding the attached garage (no idea why, but they all left this off): 1. Get a company in to do the lot and it’s just over 104k. Game over. 2. Have a different company make it in factory and deliver it for me to erect and it’s about 56k. 3. Buy blank PU SIP panels and build it myself, buying in joists etc. from other suppliers will cost about 39k. 4. Stick build it (excluding labour), assume cement board skin and osb3 skin, 140mm rockwool in frame, 50mm PIR inside that, 18k. Crumbs. I think my way forward is clear then….
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. @mjc55, thank you for your observations, and I accept your comments. To be clear, the advice and guidance on the Cornwall website is very poor. You go round in circles trying to find a webpage that contains all you need to know about what you need to submit, and in what format. Believe me, if I had known it all had to be in PDF, I would have done so. Re-directing you to the planning portal, which itself is better, but still does not restrict what you can submit (it allowed me to upload the JPG files). When I called to get some help, the ONLY way I could get it was to fork out nearly £300 for the privilege of talking to someone. I'm just trying to keep costs down, but I feel that I HAVE to use an architect to draw me some pictures. FYI - the elevation drawing and floor plans that I provided are all dimensioned, so no need for them use a scale and measure it themselves. All the information is there. This is why I am annoyed.
    1 point
  16. @flanagaj 1,800 tiles maybe? Actually it’s all v quick. I’ve only done one but suggest: + 20% of time/effort for membrane/ battens. Yeah, layout carefully but v easy job. Get the laps right on the membrane. + 30% for getting tiles in stacks on the roof. Bit of physical effort. I had a forklift to get them to eaves height. Suggest telehandler / lift is worth it. +30% for laying, v quick and easy, a bit hard on the knees. Nail about 15% especially edges? + 15% for fitting hip / ridge tiles etc. Just a bit fiddly. Cut clean through my angle grinder cable without blowing a fuse. Be more careful than me. + 5% guttering. I was nailing by hand, a nail pouch on a belt is handy.
    1 point
  17. A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't 🤣.
    1 point
  18. This post has the details on enthalpy and not enthalpy MVHR In your case perhaps enthalpy may be the way to go
    1 point
  19. And lots of survivorship bias. The ones that have survived are the expensive ones that are attractive enough for someone to spend money on to maintain. (I don't see any reason why a modern stick built house shouldn't last hundreds of years if it is maintained.)
    1 point
  20. Regarding full fill cavity, this is what I did with my build (200mm) in rockwall batts, as you say they have a bba cert for full fill. Also as a “porch” which is outside the thermal envelope do you need to insulate that well?. I had a porch on my build, only 50mm cavity and full fill but it’s only an “air lock” to stop loss of heat when the front door is open.
    1 point
  21. Help BuildHub financially while getting a £50 credit on your energy account! For anyone considering moving to Octopus Energy, please message me for a referral code. Using that code will result in £100 being split between you and Buildhub. When the credit arrives in my Octopus account, I'll transfer £50 to the BuildHub Paypal account and post a confirmation screenshot in this thread (or to you privately, if you prefer) as proof the transfer happened. As you know, BuildHub is a non-commercial forum run entirely by unpaid volunteers. We pay for hosting etc solely through member donations. If this referral scheme is successful, the need for periodic donation drives will significantly be reduced, or perhaps even done away with completely. Thanks for helping to fund the forum! List of referrals: @trialuser @Dobbie @Jenki @Originaltwist @Chanmenie - Code submitted 30 April 2024 - payment might be a while as not yet connected. @Mattg4321 - Code submitted 3 May 2024, paid 13 June 2024:
    1 point
  22. Why do Cornwall County Council planning department refuse to talk to people about submitting a planning application? And why is the information on their website so piss poor? And why are they using the sh1tty planning portal system? Am I frustrated? You bet. And having submitted an application to be told that files that were uploadable to the planning portal are not acceptable just makes it all so much friggin worse. Thank you for listening 🙂 I'm off to change files to PDF, and spend unnecessary money on a map they already have. Fvckwits!
    0 points
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