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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/27/22 in all areas

  1. I’ve recently been trying to find a supplier for our new connection to install a smart meter. I phoned a number of suppliers and their response was that they weren’t taking on new customers due to the state of the energy market. so I would suggest phoning everyone now to find anyone who will install a meter and the switch to your preferred supplier at a later date once you’ve made that decision.
    2 points
  2. So after 2 years since the planning permission was granted, and a 2month delay from the builders I'm finally underway on what will be the last major building work on this bungalow. Having real trouble finding a joiner who's available to do the roof, so I may end up having to do that myself. The one bit i'm unsure on having never done a lean-to roof before, the wood plate which goes on the wall, is it fixed using thunderbolts?
    1 point
  3. Move A to pick up the clay pipe at the corner of the extension, just below A and to the left. move the pipe connecting A closer to the new extension line, Id run that drain in the same trench as the footings. you may need a rodding point or IC at the rear corner of the larger extension box. Have you confirmed the clay pipe is where it is shown as dotted.?
    1 point
  4. Just walk into your local glass merchants and order them. They are surprisingly cheap.
    1 point
  5. I looked online and then looked for independent reviews and then went local after reading the reviews. Too many cases of the wrong sizes turning up and no replacements.
    1 point
  6. T bar is ideal for unsupported joints Great for trimming around cut outs also Shower trays etc Tap it on the end of the board and fix into the studs before fixing in the middle
    1 point
  7. An air pollution device that prematurely ends millions of peoples lives every year. WBS = Will be Buried Soon.
    1 point
  8. Any of these'll do..... To Infinity and Beyond. One Master! One Slave. Tune In, Turn On, Drop out
    1 point
  9. Sounds unnecessary based on my rudimentary knowledge. You may need to get building control advice, though.
    1 point
  10. They do now - the UDM SE.............. https://eu.store.ui.com/products/dream-machine-se
    1 point
  11. The router states it's 9v and .8 amps. and the powerbank was 26000mah.
    1 point
  12. Avoid flexible, unless pulled taught. Use hard pipe and elbows, will give a better performance from fan and less noise.
    1 point
  13. Not heard of it - I will ask my local expert!
    1 point
  14. I read about this on the forum and started to panic as it was one thing i had not considered that might be an issue , but i found that E-on have no problems fitting new meters in this area , from the first call to instillation of the smart meter was 4 weeks , i will stick with them for now and shop around once we have moved in .
    1 point
  15. Pocster knows i love him. Blinking tech though. I would be scuppered at this point.
    1 point
  16. You don't need any of that. Just setup each manifold as a zone. E.g. one per floor with a single stat for each. Let the ASHP control the water temp and the room stats to simply call on/off. There really is no advantage to anything more complicated like this in a modern, well insualted house. Don't need the actuators, sensors or individual stats at all. You can set the "heat" in each zone by setting the flow rates. Your UFH design will tell you roughly what flow rates you need for each zone. We have this setup with a 60l buffer. Works well for the rare times it's needed.
    1 point
  17. I have similar requirements to @Adsibob and will likely follow @JonJump advice and fit an unmanaged switch in front of my router with 2 decent ceiling mounted wireless access points. Currently looking at switch options and it seems that most 19" rack mounted POE options are all managed. Is that the case? I'm looking for 24 port total but only really need a handful POE. Currently have all 16x cat6 terminated and patched ready for the next step..
    1 point
  18. In legal terms a court letter is deemed delivered next working day if a First Class postage was used and proof of postage was obtained from the Post Office counter (a free service). So what's good for a court is good for a member of the public or a solicitor. Picked that up from helping people fight parking speculative invoices.
    1 point
  19. You just reminded me to add my emoji to @Big Jimbo's post! I'm just jealous mate, on the slippery slope to fuel poverty here unless I freeze to death first or can make insulation/electricity/fuel from runner beans?
    1 point
  20. I’ll send you a photo to zoom in on you big pussy packet
    1 point
  21. There’s a long story with those . Wrong sizes , months of delays … basically (expletive deleted) off 😁
    1 point
  22. The Scottish equivalent of Stamp Duty & second home tax is the Land and Buildings Transaction Tax and the Additional Dwelling Supplement. https://www.gov.scot/policies/taxes/land-and-buildings-transaction-tax/ LBTT applies to all land and property but only to transactions e.g. change of ownership. The Additional Dwelling Supplement applies only if you are buying a "dwelling" - it does not apply if you are buying an empty plot, even if it has planning permission https://revenue.scot/taxes/land-buildings-transaction-tax/lbtt-legislation-guidance/additional-dwelling-supplement-ads-technical/ads-legislation-key-terms#LBTT10015 - NB it might apply if the plot has a building to be demolished/refurbished, and costs more than £40k. If you already own the plot, building a house on it that you will also own is not a "land transaction" so there is no LBTT or ADS. The only tax that will trigger when you build the house is council tax. As others have said there may also be CGT when you eventually sell either your existing or new property, depending which has been your main home. You will be able to offset most of the cost of building the house as well as the original plot purchase, so you're only paying tax on your "profit". It would be worth keeping good records of your build costs so you have evidence for CGT deductions later. Assuming the rules don't change, you will not pay any LBTT if/when you sell either : it is paid by the buyer. Disclaimer: I'm not a lawyer or an accountant!
    1 point
  23. 1) yes on my consumer unit. It matches fairly well (within a few percent) of the Samsun controller. 2) I've it set at 50C with priority. The tank temperature gauge varies between 43 - 55 depending on what's being used and if the ASHP is heating. The disinfection cycle using the immersion that takes it up to 60C is very notable on a Tuesday morning. So... works as expected.
    1 point
  24. Welcome @Adsibob is the expert at London renovations, he has just about had everything go wrong. Make sure you get on with neighbours, and builders stay solvent. Not to mention getting wine fridges.
    1 point
  25. HI there! You're very welcome. There's loads of innocent fun to be had reading about everyone's experience. We even have a BuildHub Bodger In Residence. For fun try and work out who he is. He's a very nice man, a very very nice man. He has a problem with walk-on-glazing. (You have to be prepared to take some stick here.) Ian
    1 point
  26. I’m still awaiting my SE energybank battery been on back order for almost a year after switching from choice of 10kWh LG chem resu. I have a 10kW array with the 6kW hd wave inverter with intergral EV charger. I’m holding tight. I understand that the clipped production above the 6kW that occurs is not all lost as it can go uninverted to the dc coupled battery I even contacted SE themselves who said they have had issues with production of the battery in Hungary but are trying to resolve as a matter of urgency When it arrives I’ll post my findings
    1 point
  27. Hello Babak. Please be very careful here. Unfortunately I have seen cases where folk have been a bit too hasty with the demolition and one case where the planners prevented them from rebuilding. There was some other history but it can be that serious! It looks like you have a fair idea of what you want and have a "design" in mind. Also, it looks like you have already put a fair amount of thought into build method, servicing it and so on. What about contacting some SE's? As you are proposing ICF for part of it there are a good few that have a grasp of the fundamentals of this and from their point of view it's often more interesting than just doing the day to day stuff, so they may think.. yes that looks like a project I would like to do. I'll also do the "Architectural side2 and building approval side" as the Client already has a good grasp of what they want and, as I'm drawing it up I'll do the structural calcs as I go along.. it's a very efficient way of doing it! In summary there are a few SE's who also do the whole package, calcs, drawings, a bit of the Architectural design and building approval so don't rule this option out. Even if you don't go this full route there are SE's who will give you a good few pointers and offer their contact base to you. There is a perception that for design you have to first get an Architect.. then an SE.. then a contractor. But all these folk often work and collaborate, learn from each other anyway. So don't rule out approaching an SE, explain what you need. You may get a pleasant surprise as they may say.. well I can do most of it but I know an Architect that can say deal with the parts that are outwith my expertise.
    1 point
  28. Look for a recommended Architectural technician (Not Architect) that works closely with a structural engineer. Or ask your structural engineer for a recommendation. The architect technican can get the current drawings ready for the Structural Engineer if your original architect is willing to share the files. My quotes ranged from 4k to 22k. The 22k included glossy brochures, 3d mock ups, a local area study, material pallets for the planning application as well as a "liason" officer to manage planning. Technical drawings for building regs and a folder of technical specs for the build. It also included a number of hours for revisions/support once the build starts, but no direct involvement in the build. If you want to have a drawing of every nail, wire and socket 22k is great. If you are happy to make your own decisions on the go. it is a lot of money on something that could become quite rigid. From what you have described you should be able to find a structural engineer, a technician and submit to building regs for less than 4k, 15k is nuts and will probably take a lot longer.
    1 point
  29. Think I'm in here! Never had such a clear come-on for a single emoji reaction 🤣 We're all just jealous. But seriously, if you need a hug I'll come over*. Just don't be surprised if you're down one Energy bank when I leave. 😁 * I may leave you a dose of corona in exchange.
    0 points
  30. You can (expletive deleted)ing do one also @joth for laughing at that shite . C**ting forum full of toss face twats
    0 points
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