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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/10/22 in all areas

  1. You have got 24 corners in that basement. That must make the formwork and reinforcement a challenge! I would leave it to the contractor / designer to decide on how many pours are required.
    2 points
  2. Change might above for is and I agree with you. And - to me - the cause is simple. The English education system is the root cause. Young people in the Secondary Education system are locked into schooling in one of two (or three if you count Private schools) types - academic or not academic. That divide causes an almost irrevocable split between people who, until 12 years of age, went to the same school. Suddenly one group is told they are 'better' than the other group. Between the groups, globally there is no parity of esteem. Success is going to (locally) a grammar school. And few seem to recognise that (also locally) that there are excellent secondary schools. I know I bang this drum an awful lot, but the German Secondary Education system has a lot to offer. Young people can swap school type (academic, practical, practical-theoretical) at the end of each academic year. That leads to parity of esteem between the groups. Young people with A Levels (Abitur) are held in the same regard as those with practical qualifications.
    2 points
  3. Block paving is an easy diy and complies with Permeable BRs
    1 point
  4. We have an MBC timber frame house with an insulated raft foundation. The house is cladd in larch but we need to finish the polystyrene base. We want to render it but how do we do this. Do we need mesh first or a special render that would stick and be flexible enough.
    1 point
  5. It's a shame you did that, that gives them ammunition to blame you. If you had just left it all untouched and undisturbed and it leaked, it would be much more clear cut. WHY did you replace it? Because it was leaking?
    1 point
  6. Dig a channel into you neighbour's garden.
    1 point
  7. Well I think this is the whole thing. The pipeline was private, though connected to public sewers. No idea if the final sewage treatment is private, with only the pipework crossing your land. I would give the local water company a call and ask.
    1 point
  8. So is this field drain a solid pipe, perforated pipe? Have you dug down to find it. I can see SEPA's issue, you are asking to discharge to a pipe that you don't presently know where it ends up. Do you even know which way it flows?
    1 point
  9. Thanks. It’s a GoPro that I already owned.
    1 point
  10. It's a bad idea, it's way to much for a wall pours in a single pour, doesn't matter how good of service you have you have a massive risk of cold jointing I wouldn't even contemplate it and I do RC frames for a living. It may be new to you but it's really a very common standard piece of work and I can't see any reason a day joint if done properly would give any problems.
    1 point
  11. My sister has a shared pipe through her garden and it started leaking poo etc and water co etc not interested so she contacted envoironmental health and they instructed said water company to attend or they would get a court order….they were there within an hour 🙄
    1 point
  12. Ours was multiple pours with water bar strip. they basically built 2 corners diagonally opposite and then struck the formwork and rotated it to do the other 2 corners to make the rectangular box. details here. No leaks so far but it’s only been 6 months.
    1 point
  13. We spent quite a while considering this for our place - we have a lot of timber available. In the end I was persuaded to keep space heating and hot water seperate. We have a ~5kw woodburner which is our only source of heat. Hot water via direct electric immersion, a lot from solar PV. I'd be interested to know whether it can be done well though - my main concern was around overheating if we were reliant on it for hot water, but if there's another source like an ashp then that's dealt with. We only ever considered the boiler bit of the stove for DHW and I think it's maybe trickier that way. Our hot water tank gives out a bit of heat - it's set to a high temp but we make good use of the heat in an airing cupboard and it doesn't noticeably effect the rest of the house.
    1 point
  14. I have found that design brief really help @CharlieKLP - it helps you get your thoughts in order and work out your priorities. I recommend it as a good starting point @SueL
    1 point
  15. You dont need a smart meter unless you want to go for an MCS install and claim SEG export payments. Your "outside box" is your meter box. If you want to connect your solar inverter to the consumer unit in the man cave, youll need a slightly larger one to install another MCB for the solar inverter to connect to.
    1 point
  16. Ideally, but sadly my cutting list doesn't fit into the Birch sheets I've got left! The faces of the drawers are all Birch ply as are all the cabinet and cupboard carcasses, but I think I'm going to have to settle for a B face softwood ply for the drawer carcasses due to cost - the BB Birch ply sheets are now between about £130 - £180 per sheet + VAT, compared to the softwood pine with a better grade face for £29 - £35+ VAT! Once they're finished up with some oil I don't think anyone except for me is going to notice when we open the drawers.
    1 point
  17. Gas nailed onto concrete, with clip rails.
    1 point
  18. Robustness, membranes get torn by careless follow on trades. You can use a membrane j beads and just plasterboard as per https://www.edmondodonoghue.com/build-it-better-window-door-detailing/ This can happen if you build the inner leaf before the outer and install the window boxes first. The ply greenbuilding store used on denby dale delaminated before the windows were installed and the outer leaf was finished. It's not an issue with fitting the OSB post windows. No window straps were used. The windows were bolted to the outer leaf with 90deg angle brackets. Screwed, but either should be fine. I'm not sure what you're referring to here. do you mean the osb window bucks and the bricks? In any case you would need to use proper airtight sealant, not off the shelf mastic as that can dry out over time and crack. Airtight sealant is like trying to work with bubble gum. It's very sticky and messy. Tape is clean and easy. Having seen the bond by sealants, airtight paint and airtight tape I would rate the tape best for adhesion. Expanding foam is another pet hate for me. Messy, it shrinks unless you get very good stuff, it's expensive. I think you're referring to Compriband which is an expanding foam strip. Very clean and robust and will last as long as the windows. Also overlapping the frame with the brick and using this will create very sound proof windows. https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/ProductGrp/002a005a0001 I don't follow you here. What wouldn't work? Maybe a diagram would help me see it. Glued onto the OSB base of the window box. Thermally it's preferable to bury as much of the frame in the insulation as possible. With the revised method I've shown the gap should be equal 3 sides and maybe slightly less at the bottom as sills are normally thinker than plasterboard. This thinking is based on old narrow cavities. To enforce the tray to fully cross the cavity suggests that the insulation will be wet right to the inner leaf. If this is the case you've got much more serious problems, Practically I cannot see any issue with an angled profile extending 50mm-100mm in from the outer leaf and a gap to the inner leaf. I can't see the benefit of weep holes. How much water are they expecting to make inside the wall? The outer leaf should be well pointed such nothing more than the smallest drips form on the inside of the outer leaf. These will be directed to either side of the window by my PVC profile and drain harmlessly to the bottom of the cavity. If you are in a very exposed location and wind driven rain is really such a large factor, right above the window is the last place you want to introduce more holes. Are you working from the revised detail? I wouldn't build it again the same as we have done. Yup. Rent one as people say. You could do the whole thing in a few hours if you had your OSB pre fixed to the frames. https://www.olympustoolhire.co.uk/product/cartridge-fixing-tool-nail-gun-steel-masonary-concrete/
    1 point
  19. There are various topics covering this question but I need a slightly different answer as most of these have the DPM inside the EPS systems whereas as mine wraps up the front and meets with the DPC. Here is an image of the build up: I seem to have two issues, which I'll deal with separately: 1) What to cover the EPS upstand with and importantly how best to attach it 2) Wall build up to reach past the Upstand. EPS Upstand: There are a good few threads on what others have done from Cement board to Ubiflex and UPVC. But they all seemed to have only the DPM folded over so seemed easier. I have a DPC from the top and the DPM from the bottom- which I have joined together (seemed to make sense) but I could cut it back. I suppose it doesn't really matter what I choose to put here but I was wondering the best way to attach it. If it is cement board should I screw through the board right into the concrete? for Ubiflex or UPVC - just try and cut back and use EPS compatible adhesive of some kind? Wall build up: I have planned a ventilated cavity with render board I'd think I need to get out past the EPS upstand so when water runs down the wall it drops past the edge to the ground. However I have just noticed that the drg the engineer has used above, has the correct 50mm thick batten (50 x 75mm to mount renderbaord) but rather than use a 12.5mm render board he has shown a 30mm thick board, which isn't correct. Hence if I do this build up it won't be as far out to clear the EPS. The actual upstand is 60mm thick, hence with a 50mm Gap and 12.5mm board (not sure of render build up depth - it'll be thin coat silicone render) I barely squeeze past the upstand but definitely clear the cladding for the EPS upstand. What's the best way to do this? I could build out the battens, but it feels like they are really big already at 50mm thick? should I add an L shaped trim to top of upstand (Like others have in aluminium) so any water drops on that then runs off? is it ok for this to sit further out than the wall finish? it feels like it shouldn't. I I've attached a picture of what it currently looks like. I've also cross referenced existing threads for anyone else in the future.
    1 point
  20. I'm still stuck on this but rapidly approaching needing it sorted. I have priced aluminium which they will do for 800 quid for the full 70m.of the house, albeit much smaller profile with say with 70mm main horizontal bit to cover eps top surface which does the 50mm plus 20mm overhang to slip a render board under then 10mm vertical edge and that leaves 20mm to come up the sole plate and attach it to the sole plate. But what i am wondering is where people stop the battens. From what I see from pics of @Scotrock and @lizzie the battens come right down. But how do you then get the PIR upstand in easily? Just cut between battens? Or stop battens well short and leave last 200mm of render board unsecured? Fitting insect mesh seems pain too. I'm sure it'll be clear once I do it. But would like this to look nice and not cost the earth.
    1 point
  21. Ultimately you can do whatever your building inspector will sign off... However we have already experienced they'll approve one thing on paper then change their mind after you've installed it, so better safe than sorry. Our plans put AVV in the loft and an external open vent from the drain routed from the end of the main drain, up the outside of the house to the eves next to a drain pipe. My own simplified interpretation is that the regs require all horizontal drains to have a free flow of air through them, but this doesn't necessarily have to be through a stack pipe used internally in the house (or otherwise).
    1 point
  22. Whatever render that you decide to use you must machinacal fix the mesh Or the render will eventually she’ll The ones that I have done have been done as follows Prine the surface We often use fancy primers that are extortionately price Simply because they are on the job spec Morevoften than not with render the primer is simply to kill the suction not to stick the render to the surface So I tend to use one of cheaper primers if it’s not on the drawing apply a 5 mil base coat k Webber Stuca etc Don’t schratch or key The following day Drill and knock in render fixing Fischer or simalar The apply a render finish Hope this helps
    1 point
  23. Not to mention that there are a large number of district judges that don't have a proper handle on the law and some of them don't even know proper procedure. And then there's the organisation, or not, of the county courts themselves. I two cases we've turned up to hearings and the judge has sat there and said he doesn't know anything about the claim because he hasn't seen the bundle and questioned if it has been filed!
    0 points
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