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I needed an EPC for my MCS installed air source heat pump. As we all know the worse the rating the better my payment - which quite frankly is ridiculous . Anyway he rated my new build as D. Reasons for 'down grading it ' were ... he didn't acknowledge ( or understand maybe ) the MVHR, Tesla battery not a valid point , PV no mention. More interesting ... because no obvious room thermostats rates it 2/5 ( no understanding of HA ) Hot water also only gets 2/5 To give some context. All my rentals are 1930 terraced houses with double glazing ( my build has triple ) and a gas boiler - yet they are all 'D' So 'efficiency ' wise on paper my new build is no better than them. Perhaps he did it to increase my RHI . I did ask him to down grade it before he began with his response being " I can only do what I see". So , it's a complete mockery. In real terms I am probably a 'B' - the system is a joke

I'm interested - and looking ahead to our build process - which parts of your builds did you find were most cost-effective to DIY, and which parts did you definitely leave to contractors? We're pretty handy with general DIY with a good eye for detail, but no specialist building skills. Currently on our list to have a look at ourselves are things like wood cladding, guttering, and obviously lots of internal decoration. How about things like drainage? Beam & block flooring? Or roof tiling?

@pocster, I like your summary, but there is also an element of QA and also ensuring the design and build is actually what you want. I was involved career-wise in the project management and technical assurance of a lot of large IT projects, and I learnt a lot of rules of thumb here, which we applied well on our build. Anyone who leaves a bespoke build to a bunch of subs is foolish. You must have independent design and project management from someone that you truly trust, and comes with an excellent track record. This is not cheap -- maybe a 15% overhead on build costs -- and this is a fair reflection of the skill and time involved. TBH, most of the successful self-builders here have taken on these roles themselves. In our case, I got a TA to do the outline plans for planning consent, but worked closely with the TF companies TA to develop the detailed TF, slab, UFH plans, etc. I think we went through 10 design revisions. We were also onsite daily during the build, especially during critical phases. You must be willing to invest in quality subcontractors with a clear track record and establish a well defined scope. In our case we had two main subs and a couple of minors: The slab, TF, and airtightness was a fixed price on stage payment contract with MBC. IMO one of the best decisions we made, and I would unreservedly recommended them as a supplier. The groundworks, slate roof and stone skin was done by a local builder with an excellent reputation, all on time and materials. He normally only does complete developments to his own design, then sells them as-built. However, we were lucky to catch him between jobs as he'd run out of plots that had cleared planning. Again, this proved an excellent choice. Internorm for fenestration. Two internal custom made wood staircases by a good supplier. We used some of our builder's tradesman subbies at his recommendation, but we contracted them directly. However, his recommendation had major advantages in that (i) they were good and (ii) they weren't willing to cross him (iii) we could see the standard of their work on some of his builds: electrician, plasterboard fit and plastering out, tiling. Things typically go wrong at the interface between 2 subs; they always go wrong if it's a 3-way interface, so these need to be monitored in absolute detail. We didn't split the scope of any one trade: either subcontract or DIY. I did the entire rewiring of my old house, but that was pre the Part P certification requirement, so this got subbed out. In terms of what we did, it was everything else: design and oversight, project management, all submissions for Planning and Building Control, financial control including VAT claim; a lot of the procurement, all of the internal joinery and woodwork, CH design and all plumbing, MVHR design and implementation, all other second fit, including staircases, kitchen, utility, en-suites and bathroom. Neither of us like P&D, but that's my nephew's trade and he's good, so we had him to stay for ~3 weeks to do this. After we moved in, we subcontracted the drive way, electric gate installation and rear garden landscaping again to local specialist contractors. My wife and I are delighted with how the build turned out, both in terms of quality and fitness for purpose. We have a passive-class, low maintenance house built exactly to our spec. Because we had a large plot in our previous house and could split it, the plot only cost us maybe £50K off the sale value of our old house, so this saving plus the value of our own labour meant that we realised quite a lot of capital in the move into a house that was perhaps 20% smaller than our previous pretty large farmhouse, but extremely well suited to our retirement. So we are very glad we took this on. It was also extremely hard work and at times extremely stressful, so we would never do it again. Once in your life is enough, IMO.

Many thanks @Marvin & @Nickfromwales. I'll have to try to remember AIM APE. ? Unfortunately our roof is quite shaded so I'm not sure solar panels are an option for us. Certainly going to try to bring the existing house in line as much as possible. The new triple glazed windows will be throughout, without trickle vents, and we'll be making sure to tape the frames to the airtightness layer. I'm expecting quite a lot of work getting things and keeping things airtight enough, esp. given it's a refurb not a new build. A little apprehensive, but looking forward to learning from it.

And of course you NEED this forum !

With zero knowledge and zero skill I have almost single handily built an entire mainly underground house . So that tells you everything. You can do it all . I estimate in Labour savings ; I’ve saved maybe 500k ( if I had to employ to build today ) . Taken 7 years - not finished it … You have money then get it built . You have time and tenacity- then you build it . You have no money and no time , you sell the plot .

Only 3 things I have not done. Piling. Floor screed electrics. Apart from that ive done the lot.

just make sure you measure it correctly..... ......I'll get my coat.

But 0.2 isn’t building regs (new build) so I am intrigued at what the actual BRegs / SAP spec is that has been signed off ..?? If you’ve got 350mm to spare, then I would go with 3 layers of 100mm Frametherm overlapped then a 25mm layer of PIR / K7 below rafters and taped which will give you your VCL if done properly. That’s a massively thick insulation layer and will also work well on sound absorbtion.

Blimey. Perhaps I wasn't there for the pour then and must have imagined it all. As I said one load was returned due to the slump and that's it. Having said that, the load that was returned wasn't too bad, but just like on any TV shows they have to inject an air of jeopardy to make it more interesting. Unfortunately for them it was boringly straightforward.

Our BCO has just asked for certificate of treatment using a product like Envirograf or Flametect (there are others). I will most probably be using Flametect https://www.fireproofspray.co.uk/ What you basically need to do is call the company selling the protection product, explain your plans and they will provide the right product and corresponding certificate for BC. I'm not sure whether that will be ok? It was explained to us that the fire treatment is primarily to prevent flame spread which this may not do?

I already offered this a week ago - "We are hopefully replacing our oil fired Rayburn this year with an external oil fired boiler. Oil fired boilers are not quiet but I don't hear it when I'm in bed and it does produce very hot water very quickly. You are welcome to it if your new system doesn't work as you would like, although you would have to collect it."

I am having a PCC on the basis that most lenders accept them, if we want to sell in the next 10 years. If the buyer’s lender will not accept a PCC, they will need to find another lender or I will find another buyer! Like you, I don’t expect any benefit from the insurance and I would only contemplate making a claim for a major structural issue.

A few tubs and some ballast. A days work at most.

Well as a retired builder I did virtually everything apart from the shell (foundations, brick, block, slates, plastering) but had to get sparky to do wiring as I am not part “p” and gas fir cooker. I also got a chap to decorate to speed things up towards the end (plus I hate painting). Oh, and also got the firm who made the bifolds and front door to hang them as they were very heavy and a bit specialised to adjust properly. Also I was retired and had the time.

Well ours turned into a DIY max build. So once the builders had done the foundations (I dug the trenches with my own digger) and erected the shell i took over just about everything else. The only bits I got people in for after that were Fitting the windows (needed more bodies than me and SWMBO to lift them) Plastering (I have proved I am no good at that) Some joinery that needed a bit more skill than I have. Some plumbing e.g. gas and UVC final connection and then things that needed an official test like air tightness and Final EPC. Also some floor tiling and fitting the stone kitchen worktops. There is an awful lot you can do if you have the skills or the patience to learn new skills and have a go.

No previous real experience except DIY New build. I did Insulation in floor, UFH pipes, all plumbing Install bathrooms MVHR Install solar panels, except electrical built internal and external walls. Internal sound proofing Parge coat walls Battened out ceiling and walls roof vcl Airtightness detailing External cladding External stone slips Facia, soffit and gutters gabion baskets Levelling floor Most the wall painting, daughter did all wood work Built wood shed and water treatment shed (all from left over bits) Didn't do, roof structure or any roof covering Roof insulation (spray foam) Windows and doors Plasterboard Taping and jointing plasterboard Second fix joinery install kitchen Gas connection or piping Commission boiler Commission PV Any electrical work Water borehole, and piping filters etc External waste water piping Laying of any flooring Build garage, but did insulate.

So far, I've only renovated the existing house, I've; - Removed downstairs floor boards and joists, dug out and poured new slab, insulated and laid UFH pipes (pro company came in and screeded) - Replaced existing water mains with 32mm MDPE - approx 35m trench. - Fixed drains I broke digging that trench - Fitted beam and block over original cellar (I say cellar, it was basically a big cupboard under the stairs) - Mostly relocated a bathroom to what was a bedroom after the bathroom fitter let us down When we get rolling with the extension, I plan to; - Dig and pour foundations - Dig and pour floor slab - Dig and lay drainage Clearly I just like digging... I have a builder lined up to build the structure (walls and roof) but I'll do most of the 1st fix, all the stuff that can be hidden by the 2nd fix, which I'll also get done by the pros.

Nothing wrong with digging out and digging again on the right line, strip footings should only be taking vertical loads so not relying on sideways compressive strength of soil etc. Moving a trench into previous backfill is a big no-no and you would need to increase depth of trench to get back to solid ground

I’m tired. Just let me have that one ok. ?

No. Inverters can cope with much higher nominal DC input power than their rating. They just reduce the power taken from the panels t match the output rating of the inverter. For instance, I have a 5kW inverter, but it has 6kW of panels connected to it.

Meths is unlikely to harm it, as it'll not soften a lacquer if any has been applied, and will only slightly lift an oil finish. Perhaps try a little 000 / 0000 grade steel wool with meths, and rub over area gently, until marks are removed. Make sure to try to work "with" the grain, although with such fine grade steel wool, it's not likely to scratch oak to any degree. If that does the trick, buff dry with clean cloth and then apply a decent flooring oil or danish oil to restore colour. Give it a go on an inconspicuous spot and see how you get on.

I look forward to seeing your as built SAP derived EPC.

NO, they will share a common connection to the return. If radiators are upstairs only a partial drain down will do.

There’s an awful lot you can do when you have none of the above ?

I built ma hut off grid and did everything...from planning permission to interior design...wall of maps and wood burner. But there's a sting in the tale...tail?

Yes The good news is that the payments will pay for all the parts and commissioning. the rest was my labour. FYI at present we are using about 9 kWh on all heating and partially hot water ( some via PV) a day. F

Oh praise be there is a God!

Like these ; that I already have .

I'd treat skylight like a regular wall/window reveal. Eg plasterboard fixed to battens (or dot and dab?). Mesh reinforcement on the corners. Edit: I suppose some batten off cuts could be used around the edge of the opening to provide blocks to screw plasterboard to.

Our first floor is beam and block. The beam supplier provided some metal clips to hold battens to the underside of the beams. I think they were 22mm ish deep. So the void under beams was just the batten depth 22mm. Under the blocks the depth available for downlights was 50+22+12= 84 or 85mm ish. Back then that was marginal for fire and sound rated GU10 style downlight housings but shouldn't be an issue for LED these days.

The solution is simple and sound. First we need to identify a start point. This can be done by PIR whitch sets off the proceedure by detecting arrival of target instance.. A microphone then records to a database the sounds made by the target for the duration of the active PIR. Then using a bit of machine learning it identifies from the sound the actual activity of the target. The key sounds are then used to trigger the required extraction type and the required duration e.g. Boost, super boost, five or ten minutes, a week etc. It is likely that individual targets would have specific profile sounds and these could be used to profile boost and durations for the identified target. Use of the data could open up many other possibilites.... hmm.

You chose the wrong opponent for basement top trumps.

OK I was just there and I can see whats happening.

Not sure what the question is here? Monitor it? ; my PV production, how full or empty a battery is? ; my daily consumption/export? - you mean all that?? Through the APP! - come on Cornwall catch up!

You will need to chase the company that Suplies and fitted them

Conclusion - all now approved. In the end I submitted just one deemed consent notice (for the window profile & colour) along the lines suggested by @WWilts as a kind of test which seemed to spur the PO into action to deal with the others.

The way its worded so long as he gets to 0.2 he can use anything provided its suitable for the installation

I’m not surprised your builder wants to use actis, it will save him thousands in labour cost. But it’s your house and your spec. Do you not have a drawing. 160mm of k7 is a good spec. If your worried about fitting then get a spec for the product and tell them that is the standard it needs fitting to, end of. Fit it correctly or f##k off. This insulation should have a layer underneath the rafters as well, to mitigate against cold spots through the joists. There is a product that expands to keep the insulation fitting tight. If your having a fight with the builder buy some of the GAPO TAPE to make his life easier. What is happening with a vapour control layer.

I’ve just fixed our bulk (2200L tank) LPG supply at 34p + vat for 2 years with Avanti Gas. Works out at a shade over 5p/kWh.

Two options. Either get fire proof ply which they usually pressure pump fire protection chemicals into or you paint it with clear fire instrument paint. Most people go the paint option. Either option will be more expensive than plasterboard. In one project I worked on with exposed joists and sarking boards which needed to be fire rated the QS had a great cost saving idea. My drawings showed instrument paint but they suggested fire proof sarking boards as it was cheaper than painting. I agreed as visually they were similar. Problem was the fire engineer said the joists also needed to be protected. The whole roof couldn't now be sprayed with fir instrument paint as it would void the warranty of the sarking boards so each joists had to be hand painted. It worked out more expensive. Do you're research thoroughly first before starting or committing.

Why ..? Buy the standard products off the shelf that are available … https://www.go-banana.com/products/Lighting-Electrical/Electrical-Accessories/Cable-Accessories/Cable-Glands-Grommets/Pro-Clima-Roflex-Airtight-Pipe-Grommets-6623245.html?variant=Roflex 100

We aren’t using our engineered oak as a structural subfloor. Our build up is: 1) 14.5mm engineered oak 2) 5.5mm plywood (so the oak is less exposed to heterogenous temperatures from the UFH coils) 3) 25mm Cellecta UFH boards 4) 6mm rubber 5) 22mm structural chipboard 6) posi joists A very expensive build up, but one that will hopefully be awesome!

No specialist building skills but had the time. My Dad who is in his 70's did all the drawings by hand and helped erect the frame. Everything except plastering, electrics, ASHP inc commissioning for RHI and windows ( badly installed ) though fitted 8 Velux myself. Timber frame, 11m steel ridge beam, heaps of insulation, Air tight, MVHR, UFH, Seamed metal roof., Cedar cladding, Concrete work tops and on it goes.

Dig and pour foundations Set out and build foundation walls for house and garages Floor joists and steels Roof trusses slating and lead Fiberglas roof Fit sash windows and doors Floor screed and insulation 90% of plumbing 90% of wiring All plaster boarding and skimming 340m2 of K Rend 250 m2 of tiles 400m2 of paving I’m sure I’ve missed something When you write it down I wonder why we are about to do it all again ?

I've been the professional worrier. But also decorating, labouring, cleaning up, digging

You want a liquid. There are two on the market I know of. BLOWER PROOF MEMBRANE and PASSIVE PURPLE. I have used both either spray or paint brush. The blower proof is thicker and has some fibres , it’s easy to paint on , but a bit expensive.

Several folks here have got Octopus to install 3-ph meter recently, e.g.

Engineered oak floor is often 'oiled' finish so you may need some flooring oil. If you know what surface it has when it was first fitted that will help.

I have to admit, that if any contractor I was considering for a job gave me the "take it or leave it" approach, it would be the last thing I listened to him tell me.