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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/21 in all areas

  1. House is far from finished, but it is habitable so after 2.5yrs of van life we've upped sticks and occupied the house. Very surreal! Been lurking on this forum since 2018 now I think. The standard of my build is a direct function of the 'knowledge repository' that this forum is and the assistance of various members. Thank you one and all. Now for the next 2.5yrs of my build - garage, landscape, drive....the list is endless, should probably start with getting a shower room functioning though??‍♂️?
    10 points
  2. That would be nothing short of madness!! What kind of screed where they going to lay today in winter and expect it to be suitable to fit a kitchen on Monday?? No chance that it would be fully hardened and dry enough.
    2 points
  3. Been looking for a Juliet balcony for some time, desperate to order now as we wolkd like to get for Christmas and get fitted (I know I should've sorted a while back) We want the style below...but are struggling to find anywhere the mounts in black. Does anyone know of any? Or am I going to have to get some and then somehow coat them to be matt black? Any recommendations for suppliers also would be good. I'm seeing some crazy swings in prices. Only just 1.2m wide is what we require.
    1 point
  4. No, I know nothing about it, other than it is cheaper. I only need 15m or 16m as I had already bought quite a bit of pro clima with which I’ve done most junctions. Just have a sliding door frame and Velux left to do. One Pro Clima tape in the 150mm width was going to cost £96 inc delivery + VAT. This worked out at £54 for a slightly shorter 25m roll (but still 150mm wide).
    1 point
  5. For the benefit of anyone coming across this in the future who finds themselves in a similar situation, my plan changed again! Someone recommended this: https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/mcalpine-t12-bsp-female-x-male-couplng-15-x-1-25/ I ended up getting one of those and did the following... From the sink plug hole: - 1 1/2" - 1 1/4" coupler reducer with flat washer, as per link - 32mm telescopic P trap - Connect to existing pipework (which is 32mm) It's all working great. Thanks one and all for the help.
    1 point
  6. Exactly the same. I used it for my bifolds. Three bags. Cheaper ways to do it but none faster or leveller.
    1 point
  7. Put up shuttering to the correct height and pour a self levelling structural grout, e.g. Larsen multi grout 60.
    1 point
  8. You, @Onoff, @joe90, @Omnibuswoman and my bathroom.
    1 point
  9. Prices vary so much on a day to day basis, I got a mix of local bathroom showroom ex display and various internet suppliers. You need to shop around. Wolseley, unless your lucky can be super expensive. Also Screwfix and Toolstation can be worth a look.
    1 point
  10. is the floor any different construction than the rest of the house -is this a new build with total concrete slab in all rooms of are pipes fixed to under side of the flooring
    1 point
  11. https://www.nhbc.co.uk/builders/products-and-services/techzone/technical-updates/magnesium-oxide-building-boards
    1 point
  12. Unless it makes the room non compliant in terms of head height the additional 12.5mm won't be noticed in the overall height of the room.
    1 point
  13. A couple of other things to note on MagPly: Its breathable. Its strong. I only needed 9mm thickness of MagPly to replace 12mm of Medite Vent sheathing board, Some of the building warranty companies don't like magnesium oxide boards in general, for reasons I don't understand, including LABC I think. Might be worth double checking with your warranty provider, if you have one, beforehand it if you are thinking of using MagPly. https://www.magply.co.uk/applications/timber-frame
    1 point
  14. Kingspan insulated panels are the most common available form of these. Almost every sports hall, industrial unit and warehouse are made of these. They're quick and easy but I wouldn't call them cheap or pretty. The other issue is I think they're very poor acoustically. Driving rain echoes through them and you won't get a great nights sleep. Noise isn't usually an an issue in any of the above places they're used.
    1 point
  15. But will that affect self builders or corporate builders, that do what they want anyway
    1 point
  16. We put these on my mums garage, they were Kingspan units but didn't know if they were suitable for a house.
    1 point
  17. You can get down to 0.1 u value, but that is not cheap. General buildings regs u values is cost effective. Basically a SIP, with metal either side instead of wood
    1 point
  18. I had this issue too with my timber frame. I swiped the external Medite Vent sheathing board for MagPly and building control accepted it. I also swapped the breather paper from Protect TF-200 to Tyvek Firecurb. The MagPiy was actually suggested by Building Control. My external cladding on the sides close to the boundary is Cedral Lap (with a ventilated void) so I did not need to change that.
    1 point
  19. I insulated the cupboard they are in as well. Just make sure any wiring can cope.
    1 point
  20. We have this same issue with timber-frame garden room within 1m of the bounday. Rather than use fire boards externally, we plan to just use a render system with the relevant fire rating.
    1 point
  21. Very interesting @Gus Potter - we always just use an engineer who provides SER certificates, the only times I've done it with calcs it's been so slow and I'm sure the queries are like Chinese whispers by the time the engineer gets them! Although it might mean the engineer costs marginally more, you do get a discount on the warrant and speed up the process so it depends on what your starting point is...
    1 point
  22. To add to PeterW's contribution.. sorry.. but to put a further spanner in the works you also need to look at global stability of the walls. The wall panels need to resist horizontal wind loading so that part of it needs consideration.
    1 point
  23. Unless your SE will sign off something smaller
    1 point
  24. I suspect it very much is. But you may want to read this report (then tell us all what it says) https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/198850/hot_water_cylinders_buffer_tanks_heat_pumps.pdf
    1 point
  25. Hi Saveasteading. I understand your frustration. As a bit of background. Glasgow City Council for example are clamping down on folk who are putting a different interpretation on the word "minor". Folk are submitting warrant applications and trying to pass it off as minor works so as to avoid having to engage an Engineer and to try an speed up the application process. The way BC is set up nowadays is that if there is any doubt on their part they are entitled to ask you to submit supporting calculations or go the SER route. Their first duty is to public safety and they are heavily overloaded at the moment. I just had a letter today from the planners saying they have experienced a 25% increase in applications since COVID kicked off. There are a lot of folk extending and so on and the planning / warrant system is starting to fail. I think it's your replacement timber structure that is the main issue. I can appreciate that you probably have got the main structure sized right, particularly with your experience. But.. if you are interfacing with old stone, have the odd funny shape then things like your standard connections to the walls, the bracing system and small redistribution of loading can take you beyond the spirit / intention of the minor works guidance. This information you have been given is wrong, they are making incorrect / false statements. In Scotland to get a building warrant you can: 1/ Submit drawings and specification showing how you are going to comply with all the parts of the building standards. This includes part 1 of the Standards "Structure". Rather than submitting calculations you get an SER engineer to give you a certificate that effectively says they have done the calcs in the office and rather than printing them off here is a certificate instead with drawing information. The SER registered Enginner still has to do the work in house as the SER ltd auditors should be making sure they do! 2/ You can produce the same drawing / specification information as above but provide the calculations instead. If you lay your design calculations out in the same format as the guidance the SER ltd give to their members then the council have no where to go in terms of questioning your presentation. Provided you get your calculations correct and know what you are doing then a checking Engineer should have no presentation issues and your calcs get approved. In some way this is good for public safety as you have an independant Engineer paid by the council checking your (commercial) work. Now here in Scotland some councils will do their best to delay and try and put you off submitting your own calcs. Quite a few made the mistake of laying off their in house Engineers and now have to funnily.. tender it out to SER Engineers.. ! You do not need to be a registered Engineer, so long as you are competant with sufficient knowledge and experience you can submit calculations. The test is are your drawings conveying all the required information to show how you are going to meet the building standards and are your calculations correct, professionally prepared in an acceptable format. In terms of your calculations a key part of this is the description of the design philosophy and an explanation of where all the load paths are and how the structure "works". If you can't describe this philosophy and defend you design against professional scrutiny then you have failed the competancy test in my view. Some councils in the central belt still have in house checking Engineers, some don't. The ones that don't generally have a standing arrangement where they get an SER Engineer to check the calcs. North Lanarkshire Council have such an arrangement. Roughly the submission is sent to the councils approved list of SER Engineers. They have 3 weeks to respond and a further 3 weeks to do the job. Thus on the whole getting a warrant takes about 6 -8 weeks longer than the SER route. Sometimes when you look at it in the round the calc route is faster as if often as the end of a job you need the SER Engineer to sign the form Q..to get the completion certificate.. and they don't do this if the builder has not kept all the info on say roof trusses / specialist design packages and so on. Go the calc route and it is designed at the front end. Many folk are happy with this old school calculation route provided they know up front. Often in the time the warrant application is progressing you are tendering, a good builder often can't start anyway for a few months so the apparent delay becomes a mute point.
    1 point
  26. Hi @Bitpipe and @LA3222 , and poor old @ToughButterCup having worked over the years, as self employed builder all the way to multimillion pound property, in roles from quoting, as an estimator, planner, cost engineer, site manager, surveyor and clients project manager, form pre-tender estimates through to final accounts I can safely say that every build is different. I know of no "One size fits all" answer. There are lots and lots of variables, far too many to list. For the avoidance of doubt I am not mocking anyone. Its neigh on bloody impossible to estimate the final cost. Having been paid to do just that day in day out for a few years .........
    1 point
  27. This is a bug bear of mine on this forum - I have two. The first is how some go on about how 'perfect' and 'precise' their slab, frame whatever is. This caused me a.lot of stress early on when things weren't quite perfect. I now know enough to know that building ain't perfect - it doesn't matter as long as the end result is correct. I.e. insulation, air tightness and look. The second is costs. I think people like to delude themselves/be able ro brag how little their build costs and kit all sorts of things such as plot etc. How can that not be included- its a build cost. Yes it will vary depending in region (which is the excuse most use for ommitting) but then so do labour costs, do they omit those? Nope. People on here love to massage the numbers. Not many will give you a true 'total' cost. My dislike for this stems from the fact that the unwary will.read this and factor it into their costings and come a cropper. For myself, every single spend I have that would not have arisen if I wasn't self building is a 'build cost'. Simple. 'Sat quietly now waiting for the I built my house for less than £1000/m2 people to pipe up?'
    1 point
  28. Turn it upwards, lay floor and then trim back to floor level. This way leaves the membrane with an up stand on the inside to prevent any water travelling back and under the flooring
    1 point
  29. good luck! it's great that there will be experiences from members here of multiple different timber frame companies. it will definitely give a broader range of options for future readers. keep us updated with your progress.
    1 point
  30. Spotted today: 50mm Celotex B&Q have about 40% off 50mm Celotex 1200x450mm insulation sheets if you buy 10. 0.54sqm each, works out at the equiv of £18 for a 1.2x2.4m sheet and goes in the car. +10% more if you take a pensioner on a Wednesday or have a trade account. No idea if old traders get 20%. Free delivery over £250. http://www.diy.com/departments/celotex-insulation-board-l1200mm-w450mm-t-50mm/307375_BQ.prd Decorative Aggregates Major and Bulk Bags Wickes 3 for 2 on various until Tuesday. http://www.wickes.co.uk/spotlight/q2decaggregates?home-page-banner=8
    1 point
  31. no idea but following with interest as we need 4 of these at about 800mm wide and would like black fixings as well!
    0 points
  32. What?! *Now* you're telling us you're using a plug-in network adapter?! Talk about a wild goose chase. Yeah, if it's cheap Chinese nonsense then you can almost guarantee non-unique MAC addresses. Buy something better quality and your problem will be solved.
    0 points
  33. 0 points
  34. 0 points
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