Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/12/21 in all areas

  1. I have been using a pellet boiler for 7 years now and it's done what is meant to do. Mine is sited in my sunroom so it's more stylish looking than the other larger units that hold a few hundred kg of pellets. Mine at most will hold 25kg loaded in via a hatch on the top of the stove. When I made the choice to go down this route near 9 years ago wood pellet systems where very popular in NI so had plenty of options to where I could buy one plus very good access to servicing etc. Once our local knobs in government messed up the RHI scheme which resulted in it closing, the whole renewable industry in NI died overnight. For the past 5 years any repairs that where required I done them myself. Luckily enough they are used widespread in the rest of the EU so there is plenty of websites to help. Same goes with servicing. I strip it down once a year and clean it all out. In total I have replaced the burn pot twice and the air intake sensor twice. Approximately £300 costs for 7 years isn't that bad. We are lucky that balcas have a factory here making wood pellets so I have easy access to fuel. The cost per tonne has stayed relatively the same at around £265 for the past 4 years. If I had to make the same choice now between a pellet boiler, an ashp, oil burner or gas I would go for an ashp. They where pretty close at the time 9 years ago it was just the fact I didn't know a single person here who had one I could quiz about them plus there was hardly any companies doing them so if any thing went wrong who could I get out to fix it. They do work but like every single heating system if it's not sized correctly or installed correctly it won't work at it's most efficient.
    3 points
  2. Well done. Just stick an A2A unit somewhere. In such a well insulated building the heat will find it's way around anyway. I like the look of this one. COP of 5, Wi-Fi control and summer cooling too. https://www.orionairsales.co.uk/daikin-air-conditioning-rxm25r-ftxm25r-wall-mounted-25kw9000btu-inverter-heat-pump-r32-a-wi-fi-15085-p.asp Maybe next year once I see our kWh usage for the winter.
    2 points
  3. Why not Scottish larch, lower shipping costs, buy straight from the mill, much more stable prices.
    2 points
  4. Just had a call from HMRC today 12 Nov.. My self build VAT claim was submitted in June. She just had one simple query re my form. I think they have someone checking the forms and paperwork prior to forwarding to another dept to check the invoices etc. Otherwise she said everything seemed ok & in order. She provided me with the following information as I had a few questions: 1. Based upon current turnaround, my claim can be expected to be paid end of year so a 6 month turn around thereabouts. 2. During the lockdown HMRC were paying out 70% of claims pending application review that has now ceased. Normal process now review then pay out has resumed. 3. My scenario was building control sign off in March 2021, for the house. Since then I have purchased numerous eligible items eg to build garage, landscaping material etc. She confirmed all would be eligible as within 3 months of house sign off. 4. In my claim many of the items weren’t proper original invoices, often online copies as due to pandemic paper copies weren’t provided. no issues it seems for that. 5. My garage had PP but didn’t require a warrant due to size. No issues with materials for that on the claim. 6. With my claim I submitted a covering letter with explanation of certain claims and timings etc. It seemed that was very helpful for them. thought others may find this helpful.
    2 points
  5. Is there such a product that is basically a double socket that fits perfectly into a brick slot? So the box is flush rather that sticking out?
    1 point
  6. not my site, and the more i look at it the worse it gets!
    1 point
  7. We just run 2-core SWA and terminate to the DC singles at each end with rotary isolators. That's just to get a means of converting from cable type to cable type.
    1 point
  8. What I said, 3rd post. Drill a round hole with a diamond grit tipped hole saw:
    1 point
  9. I might have some, will get back to you.
    1 point
  10. I once had a house with storage heaters that were made about 1995. They leaked too much heat. In the spring and autumn you needed to put heat into them "just in case" it was going to be cold next day. If it wasn't as cold as you expected the room would overheat even with them shut off. Ended up ripping them out and fitting gas boiler and rads.
    1 point
  11. Ebay is also a good place to search for stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111202587094?hash=item19e430d1d6:g:Ne8AAOSw0UdXtWVJ Not saying that is the best or cheapest, but it is "food grade" which seems a good idea if it's going anywhere near your water tank.
    1 point
  12. That link says its in stock for next day delivery ? Otherwise Google suction pipe 3/4"... Clear.. 2 or 3 day delivery.. https://www.northerntankstore.co.uk/clear-suction-hose?source=googlebase&option_id=984&option_value_id=2717&gclid=CjwKCAiAvriMBhAuEiwA8Cs5lfiaonmlGhQeUjBJjPtEAcKCBFuCRkVXEq6_RsBF4XVrtP2Ok8tqyxoCJRwQAvD_BwE 1m lengths on Amazon.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/WIRE-REINFORCED-SUCTION-DELIVERY-HOSE/dp/B00K6D2TU0/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Suction+hose+3%2F4"&qid=1636753300&qsid=258-2896245-2103505&sr=8-6&sres=B01D52JXMK%2CB00K6D2TU0%2CB0001E3SZE%2CB07WC1DT2F%2CB083QQ8VG9%2CB0891PBJTH%2CB0813BPL7V%2CB0001E3YJ4%2CB08922WNGR%2CB01N6IIEC5%2CB007PNRJU4%2CB094DM9VXP%2CB016DH5RZG%2CB002X6XXV2%2CB084KWT8KF%2CB07J4SXG37%2CB078GSPQ5S%2CB08WQ9CWY1%2CB001BAVSHW%2CB09B2KC8C7
    1 point
  13. 4 or 6mm 2 core swa. Wrap the external cable in amalgamating tape and leave clipped to wall so it’s not damaging roof.( or gland it into a plastic box) leave plenty at either end to allow for a neat termination.
    1 point
  14. It's probably best to focus on what NEEDS to be achieved here, ( and not to terrify the OP with things that are not 'real world' issues ). This probably needs a full day for 2 guys to rectify all of the internal stuff, plus whatever it takes to resolve the holes in the stone formed by the unsupervised use of TNT...........
    1 point
  15. And to be fair I seem to recall someone recently posting a picture of a *combined* inlet+exhaust terminal. Sure, it was fairly directional in its construction but even so - if that is in any way acceptable then one might argue that 900mm lateral separation is too. Putting my Internet pitchfork away for a moment, it is perhaps the sort of thing that in theory having a 1500mm separation obviously matters but in practice it being less than this doesn't, particularly given we are where we are with this. It's a bit like the fall on my extension's flat roof - I won't open old wounds by dwelling on it too much but my builder didn't meet the minimum 1:80 guideline and whilst the roof seemingly works perfectly fine despite this it still haunts me to this day... but it probably shouldn't.
    1 point
  16. Manufacturers installation guidelines trump building regs in every instance.
    1 point
  17. If the conduit is not entirely visible and labeled, (e.g. if hidden behind plasterboard at all), it should be armoured.
    1 point
  18. .... Install them in conduit and do something to keep the roof ends out of the weather until needed. Use proper high voltage DC rated cable e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203648797875?hash=item2f6a6a0cb3:g:v6wAAOSwgydhZfAJ That's a random link to show you what you want, not a recommendation to buy from that particular source.
    1 point
  19. whacking will compress the voids... as when they block pave
    1 point
  20. 6mm² DC cables. You need two per string. They need to be labelled as well.
    1 point
  21. That flange piece could end up looking good, just got to have a bit of artistic flare. my mate made this, my wife saw it ( I’m not on social media) and she bought it it was a gas bottle
    1 point
  22. I am due an invoice, was expecting it today, so should be here tomorrow, will let you know the final cost. I got from Timber Central in Nairn, they are on Facebook and that number is correct, the Google number is an old number.
    1 point
  23. This will kill the idea: "Suitable for summer use eg May-Sept – requires an air temp of +10c and above to operate" At that price it will be VERY basic, and by the looks of things no option to reverse cycle and therefore no defrost function hence when the air is too cold it might ice up with no means to defrost. It also requires a huge water flow through large hoses, not compatible with a heat exchanger in your plenum box.
    1 point
  24. You do have a very good warm roof as well.
    1 point
  25. 150mm as the very minimum. 175mm would be better. This is because the UFH heats the slab to about 35⁰C, so the temperature gradient to the ground is greater than a normal floor, which may only be at 16 to 18⁰C. I take it that the upstairs is a room/s in roof conversion, as it is currently a bungalow. If insulated well, you may find you need little heating, so maybe just small radiators. You may find that you need cooling though. This brings us onto ventilation. Assuming you are doing a full refurbishment, what have you decided about this aspect of it, you have room for a MVHR unit? You could just heat the slab downstairs and fit either A2AHPs upstairs that heat and cool, or plumb in some plinth heaters to the ASHP. They could also cool in the summer. One way to reduce overheating in a room in roof (if this is what you are doing), is to fit PV, this can take out 20% if the sun's energy and turn it into useful electricity.
    1 point
  26. You could do a combination of that. I’ve used Rise Kit’s in the past, that provide a gas tight seal. There are probably some cheaper alternatives too, I haven’t looked for a while
    1 point
  27. I bought a Spit Pulsa 40e gas nailer ( concrete and steel fixings ) for £499 and it paid for itself with this one job. All those rails and metal P clips for here and there fixed down with 25mm concrete nails.
    1 point
  28. We have everything in the ceiling void. From the basement buffer tank, the 22mm pipes go though a service cavity and along the ceiling voids to the manifold. Only thing in the floor is ufh pipes and the odd bit of waste pipe.
    1 point
  29. It not a CO2 alarm you need, it's a CO alarm.. very different, carbon monoxide is what kills you and produced by burning a fuel - CO2 is what you breathe out. In Scotland you need a CO2 monitor in the main bedroom, but don't think you need that in England. Interesting, Scotland regulations guidance note, specifically exclude the use of combined heat and smoke alarms, as heat alarm are only to be installed in kitchens. If the alarm is battery powered, the battery cannot be replaceable. CO alarms do not have to connect fire alarms.
    1 point
  30. Don't forget you need a CO2 alarm in any room that the flue passes through. eg if you've a bedroom upstairs and the chimney flue is boxed out and passes through this room it also needs a carbon monoxide alarm. As for the type and location I put mains wired Aico alarms in every single room and have LD1 protection in my house. I pay huge attention to detail to ensure everything is as clean, simplified and as designed as possible but I felt the life of me and my family was more important so compromised on smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms. Also install these if going the Aico route. They're very useful for false alarms, testing, etc.
    1 point
  31. It's an analogy. Don't over think it! But that's not at all what the MIs say, they have a minimum not a maximum, so not sure why that's relevant. Agreed
    1 point
  32. No problem: the discussion has grown towards general theory. Ask your supplier how they avoid shrinkage cracks at box-outs. Perhaps it doesn't shrink? Or they add fibre?
    1 point
  33. Ah, yes, that muddies the water a little! That said, I would expect manufacturer's installation instructions trump any other guidance/regulations, just like they do with gas appliances, electrical items etc and so there's still hope yet!
    1 point
  34. I would look at it that the install needs to meet both the 10 year old HM Government guide AND the manufacturer's installation requirements. If one is stating a minimum 300mm separation, and another stating a minimum 1.5m separation, then the install must have 1.5m Min separation to meet all requirements.
    1 point
  35. I bought standard outdoor sockets and let them back into the brick as far as possible, but you still end up with about 30mm + sticking out of the wall to allow for the front to hang up, cable access etc
    1 point
  36. Make sure you keep your Windows closed. Do not let your screed dry fast. Keep this floor in high humidity. Sorry for language-polish builder
    1 point
  37. If you aluminium covered PIR insulation, you need to separate from concrete, as it forms it forms harmful gases. Aluminum reacts with the alkalis (OH) found in portland cement concrete. When these two chemicals are combined, the reaction produces hydrogen gas. This is why, when the reaction occurs in wet concrete, you'll notice tiny bubbles coming to the surface of a slab. Use a thin DPM to separate.
    1 point
  38. Well, British Gas turned up today on time and fitted a meter. I can’t believe nothing went wrong!
    1 point
  39. Good photos onoff! For all. Screeds and concrete shrinks. It cost pennies to do but where you have an internal corner just drop in diagonal bar, even if it is a poured self levelling screed or a screed with fibres. Even with fibres (plastic firbre ones definitley, steel fibres a bit less) you can still get crack development.. and this can cause you to worry that you have stretched your UF heating pipes.
    1 point
  40. I used Polypipe trays rather than a slip membrane. Makes for a lighter, castellated, slab. Think the tray inside the biscuit tin at Christmas! It doesn't "ring" quite as dense as a solid, full depth slab does but it's strengthened by A142 mesh Thank God I put the mesh in as I forgot to add the fibres in when I mixed the concrete. I used wet concrete btw, not screed. Tamped level using screed rails attached to the stud walls.
    1 point
  41. My heart was a racing a little reading that response... and it's not even my issue! Been in similar situations before though (although not with MVHR) and I suspect it is triggering a Pavlovian response of feeling anxious when going into battles like this! Just remind yourself that they are human too, and whether you've got a case or not I am sure all companies get their fair share of unreasonable customers and complaints so you mustn't be too surprised or offended if they initially think you might be one of them. You didn't sound like one to me in your complaint though, so if you keep that calm and level-headed stance I think it'll work in your favour. You are disappointed that's all, and feel that the installation hasn't lived up to expectations of what you consider acceptable based on your understanding and interpretation of the manufacturer's instructions, which doesn't sound unreasonable to me. Their holding response sounds okay to me - at least you got one! Sure, it'd be nice if they just rolled over and said 'gosh yeah, that's not quite up to scratch is it - let's work out a plan how best to proceed from here' but if they really have got VA involved then that's a reasonable second-place position. If VA back down on their own installation instructions, well, I think you'd have to accept that. VA are basically the expert witness in this case and if they say some of the pertinent bits (i.e. the intake/exhaust separation and straight pipe distance) are actually okay and not of real concern then that'd be good enough for me. I'm not expecting them to though, after all why put stuff like that in their instructions if it doesn't actually matter either way? There's nothing stopping you from speaking with VA directly once you know the individual's name in order to challenge an about-turn, but I wouldn't do that yet - let things run their course and respect the effort the installers are putting in and that it is they that have approached this 3rd party. Or so they say, it might be the ventilation-world equivalent of 'having spoken to my solicitor...' which is actually a euphemism for 'having Googled a bit looking for ways to wriggle out of this...'. Regarding the compliance guide it's difficult to comment about that, mainly because I haven't read it all. If it is to become a relevant document to your case then the installers will need to be more specific with their references, just like you were against the installation instructions. It's a shame they put that line in really - feels a bit passive aggressive - but it sounds like it's going to be referred so get reading! Hang in there, and don't lose perspective. It's a situation that needs resolving, yes, but if you and yours have still got your health then everything is merely a bonus.
    1 point
  42. Yeah that is my exact worry is the sand underneath starts to wash out, there is no need to put the sand between there levels other than as you said its easier to level sand than it is onto type 1. The company comes with good reviews, but from Day 1 I have been extremely worried, the sharp sand between the layers has just made me loose all confidence in them. To far in to say just walk off, and its the way they do it, already said I've never head of sharp sand between Type1 and Cement.
    1 point
  43. Yes be concerned. I think this is just easier to lay flat than stone. It can't really be rolled or whacked hard either. The problem I see is of rain running through the joints (perhaps in 2 to 3 years, and washing away the sand. As suggested above, if it has enough cement in it then it will be ok. but I think this is just to suit themselves as it is difficult to impossible to lay stone exactly within a few mm..
    1 point
  44. I can not see the point in this layer of sharp sand either. if anything add more type 1 and whack to level. They said they do it this way all the time and have really good reviews but a guarantee on install for 10 years. I have just never heard or seen it done this way. Should I be a concerned with this layer of sharp sand? He said on top of type 1 is geo fabric, sharp sand to level out, whacked down, sealed and then the mortar mix (not dot and dab) full bed per slab as it is laid.
    1 point
  45. This is website is considered as the authority on all things paving: https://www.pavingexpert.com/layflag1 - note how they do it. Sub then bed i.e. the sand/cement.
    1 point
  46. Generally pellet quality is good in the UK if you stick with certified pellets, and ensure if it is a blown delivery then the pressures are kept sensible (distances kept to circa 15/20m max, and ensure the driver doesn't turn the pressures up so he can get home for his tea).
    1 point
  47. Comes down to installing decent quality kit, and correctly installed (no different to the many heat pump issues that crop up on this site). The issue I come across with tree surgeons is its often not the best quality chip (usually lots of brash and bark so the boiler needs setting up accordingly), and they don't allow it to dry out to a suitable moisture content.
    1 point
  48. We did a self build in 2015 and I still have the very comprehensive spreadsheet I set up (I am no expert) which shows every item purchased, cost and VAT which I am happy to email to you but not sure how you would let me have your email address, unless you put it on here. We also sent our plans to two Builders Merchants, Travis Perkins and a local one who listed and priced up everything we would need - each charged about £145 and the cost was refunded when we purchased over £100 of goods. Travis Perkins were the slowest and I don't know what the position is with them these days as I can't even get quotes for materials from them. I found their Bills of Quantity really useful as they basically set out the materials in the order in which they are required for the build. My own spreadsheet does the same thing. We built a six bedroomed, detached house with integral garage in masonry with concrete filled foundations, which required clayboards due to proximity of trees and clay. The builders merchants' BoQs will definitely help - you can decide whether you think ours would be of use.
    1 point
  49. What an astonishing perspective, though I am not surprised in your case. Respecting property ownership is a fundamental principal of our society that goes back centuries but not any more according to you. Owner A was clearly the rightful owner and since he never sold the house he must still be the owner by any normal sense of decency. Owner B is either the victim of a huge fraud or an accomplice in an elaborate scam, either way he should be forced out. Buyer beware and all that.
    1 point
  50. Ref. https://www.vent-axia.com/file/792933/download?token=6vlpcIyG It also states:
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...