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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/13/21 in all areas

  1. Hi, live in Devon, building a shepherds hut for holiday rental plus lots of repairs to do on 1700s farmhouse.
    2 points
  2. No. Notifiable work is limited to new circuits, replacement consumer units and additions/alterations in a special location (of which the kitchen no longer is).
    2 points
  3. Builds like this are really difficult to “see” on a drawing and a few millimetres can make a massive difference to the room. make a mock-up with sheets of anything sat on boxes or trestles etc. Then move them around a bit, stand back, walk around, adjust size and repeat until it feels right
    2 points
  4. I've been and grabbed one of the late FiLs wheelbarrows. Best out of 4. Not saying the metal is thin but if we're talking biscuit tin then they might as well have used the plastic tray that holds the biccies! First thing I did was ditch the tiddly front wheel and put on a solid, never flat type. Puts the front up and back down like a Capri with sagging leafs but works for me. However, fully loaded with soil and the whole bloody thing is live and flexes like mad. It needs bracing. I'm thinking between A and B for a start. I've some donated 70x25x2 box that should drop in there nicely. Was saving that for a router table but I think I've another couple of lengths of it. Then between C&D, E&F. I can use some of the tonne of 25x25 I've got. The barrow frame is 25mm dia so if I Starrett the box it should fit nice and snug. Sound like a plan? Fire up the MIG...tomorrow maybe!
    1 point
  5. tile it inside ..? You helping with the grouting ..??
    1 point
  6. I guess your first buildup was something like this. I calculated a U value of 0.188 and a phase shift (decrement delay) of 6.7hrs. This isn't a great number and may have added to your overheating. A better option for heat protection. Similar U value but a phase shift of 12.8hrs. Notice the much less extreme swing for internal surface temperature in the summer. This makes overheating easier to control. On a cold winters day both roofs will perform the same against the cold. The website I used was. It's worth having a play. https://www.ubakus.com/en/r-value-calculator/? It includes this importance sentence in the blurb there too. "For a proper summer heat protection, materials with a high heat storage capacity should be used, ideally in combination with an outer insulation. In addition, the direct sun exposure through windows must be reduced to an acceptable level by shading means, e.g. outer blinds, roller shutters or sun sails"
    1 point
  7. @Nickfromwales was right, it was not a street elbow but a tap connector, my bad ?. All hail the god plumber ?.
    1 point
  8. Small radius is ok, I wouldn’t use an elbow at the bottom of the stack to reduce hammer. As long as it’s a bend it will stay clear
    1 point
  9. Find some interesting people to talk to. Or build something. Make a steel Christmas Tree out of .004% of the junkheap.
    1 point
  10. Keep talking to the officer and read the comments. You can update docs and designs as consideration proceeds.
    1 point
  11. Just making sure you don’t fry the ones you love the most…….Zippy, Bungle and George. ?
    1 point
  12. They’re both live cables ya nugget
    1 point
  13. They’d likely just fail it possibly with a recommendation to come back less the offending item(s), which would be free as you get 2 ‘hits’, iirc, before having to pay to submit again. If the amendments are not non-material and you have to come back with a full resubmission then you may have to pay the fees again. Panicking too soon isn’t healthy, just wait and see what they come back with.
    1 point
  14. Technically they are both live. Turn switch off, 1 will be live, one dead. connect the permanent live to L and the other to O. leave the blues alone
    1 point
  15. The foot stops the bend from rolling/sliding downwards. If properly supported and prevented from moving with concrete then no problem
    1 point
  16. Drill more holes if you want but there is not much load on it as it’s resting on the floor at the base and wall at the top and will be stiffer once all bolted up. ? (I prefer resin bolts, stainless threaded rod from screwfix cut to length, nuts, washers, resin) but as said above the hole must be dust free or the resin won’t grip the concrete.
    1 point
  17. It’s amazing how floppy steel stairs are until they are fully bolted up.
    1 point
  18. For certainty of fixing I would choose a combined screw and plug, like these. BUT I would use Fischer or other big brand....diall own brand are very variable I have found, but I couldn't quickly find Fischer bigger than 10mm. They exist and I'm sure you will find them if interested. https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-universal-nylon-steel-wall-plug-l-60mm-dia-12mm-pack-of-20/1584932_BQ.prd
    1 point
  19. LBB th Thread: The detail I used for my existing suspended floors. Note this is wall rads not ufh. For UFH I would want more insulation - probably 75mm not 25mm PIR over the floor. Given that my final restriction was being able to trim internal doors enough (limit was about 60mm), I might be forced to go PIR between the joists if I was not able to do things to doorframes. Calculate the u-values. The other option is to seal the void to moisture and fill it with polystyrene beads. May cause BCO to have kittens. Calculate your u-values against what you need. Further discussion on this Boffin's Corner thread about the build up: Ferdinand
    1 point
  20. All agreed as per MarkC. A stair is a fairly stable and static thing, so very little pull-out on the fixings. If the Engineer says M12 then M12. But you can get M12 into plastic plugs so is very easy. For shims, the easy and cheap source is fence washers, big ones. screwfix as this https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-steel-square-washers-m12-x-4mm-50-pack/452ft If you go to a merchant they will try to charge £50 for a bag of a hundred but come down to £15 or so on demand, so get a price from the rep first. Steel shims are otherwise stupidly expensive, so a few hundred steel sheds are on the washers...BUT then fully grouted with dry mix afterwards. Shims (and washers) often have bends and sticky-out bits and don't pack tightly, so also give them a bash to flatten out.
    1 point
  21. Yes, that anchor will work well and bolt head is neat
    1 point
  22. If you want a bolt head then you are into sleeve anchors. place piece, drill hole same diameter as the sleeve, puff dust out, back bolt out as far as is practice, insert into hole and tighten. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fsa-sleeve-anchors-silver-12-x-81mm-m10-20-pack/68793
    1 point
  23. @Moonshine, gothe bit extra and get rid of the lead pipe. Take MDPE straight in.
    1 point
  24. No need for a special visit. If sparky has done 1st fix and majority of 2nd.
    1 point
  25. Good question and I don’t think there is a definitive answer. hob connection is really no different (in fact easier) than fitting a plug or socket so kitchen fitters often make the connections just as the delivery and install guys are not sparkles either.
    1 point
  26. I would concur with that. We have sworn we will not do another self build after this one, but that is not so much because of the actual building process, but the buying and in particular the selling process that is so awful.
    1 point
  27. We have LOADS of threads about that ? . One or two, and there are more serious one's elsewhere.
    1 point
  28. I got told that by a carpet fitter about 35 years ago. Had forgotten all about it.
    1 point
  29. No expert here but I have always used rubber crumb underlay. I Was advised on this many years ago by the old guys fitting out a hotel I was passing through. Its hard to describe but the carpets felt so good underfoot. its good for sound,heat and heavy objects and is probably made from recycled materials now! Google and compare, I bet it’s cheaper than the branded fashionable stuff that gets pushed fwd?
    1 point
  30. Hi all, I've joined to learn a bit more about self build. Although still a dream for me, our local council is releasing 'affordable' plots of land for 12 self builders with a local connection. I'm just trying to research if it's even possible. Jason
    1 point
  31. Installed in May so FCU only used for cooling. It's never cold upstairs so I doubt we'll ever use it for heating, but the very quick test I did on install it seemed fine. Yeah in the warm loft, 125mm duct direct into a circular ceiling vent. The return is via loft air. There's a risk this picks up more dust, no issue seen so far. And Nick says it may unbalance the mvhr but we don't run it enough that really worries me. (the q350 stats don't seem to show any change in overall flow when it's on)
    1 point
  32. just agree to the chimney and dont build it. same with brick slips. Worst than can happen is they enforce against you (wont happen), you appeal for free lose and then have to do it anyway. Its a game your playing here, the rules of the game are not known to you yet.
    1 point
  33. So, good evening! I’ve borrowed some drawing pens and done some bits and I’m ready for critique ? not sure about the canopy/porch thing but it looks ‘warmer’ than the architect version?!
    1 point
  34. OK, now we're getting somewhere. Change the windows to a normal size. You'll regret living in a house with no natural light. This will help to fix the "austere and characterless elevations" For the chimney you have a strong argument that the government wants to ban stoves/fires etc and so houses shouldn't have chimneys. They also harm airtightness. I have two which are totally fake! Unless catslides are a feature of the area he doesn't have much of an argument. Why not change to the one you are suggesting, I think he maybe just wants it to have character not a specific design. Then maybe look to varying the outer finish in a modern way such as a mix of render and wood, something that you like that provides some variation. I suspect the windows and the creation of the large expanses of wall are the main problem. The planner will also like if you show willing.
    1 point
  35. the pencil line on a 1 in 100 drawing is a good 100mm on the ground.
    1 point
  36. Wash your mouth out Sir! Another unfinished project is about to commence!
    0 points
  37. Another backbox cut out by the drunken pocket squirrel...
    0 points
  38. Fix one of those Capri's
    0 points
  39. It’s the fridge appliance plumbing that always goes faulty, not my awesome pressure tested plumbing!
    0 points
  40. I’m surprised tbh . Surely the sparky should mark the L from the consumer I.e power in ( if you like ) as opposed to L to the lights ( as they aren’t live until L + L ) . Just seems an easy thing to mark when installing .
    0 points
  41. That explains the grout then !
    0 points
  42. In a lot of firms they employ someone who could be described as the "Shit Deflector".
    0 points
  43. The same principle applies to fitting a flex into a square pin plug.
    0 points
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