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Well it took long enough but looking a lot better now, just some edges to tidy up.

Problem with just brackets and no other support. Is the threshold will flex. It should have a solid base but when that’s not possible, then the brackets are the only option. Doesn’t matter whose door it is, it’s the same principle for all. However, I’d be looking to introduced additional brackets and what other support could be introduced. What they appear to be proposing sounds fine but you have to question the detail in the first instance.

I agree, be careful calling it a workshop if you are looking to claim the VAT back as workshops are not covered but garages are. Enough room to drive cars in AND open the doors, space to use workbench with the cars in it. Don’t forget all the other stuff that WILL end up in there. Lawnmowers, bikes, garden furniture, chest freezer, garden swing, buckets etc etc

You are putting too much faith in what the neighbour tells you, his builder just wants to finish the job with a maximum profit. It is time for you to start quoting statutory law at the neighbour.

Our water connection supposedly needed a road closure, but the council wouldn't authorise it and told Anglian Water to mole it instead. We still lost loads of time whilst this was going on, but it might be worth asking if moling is an option to avoid a road closure.

Uni ridge plus rollout dry ridge? https://www.sigroofing.ie/products/clay-tiles/siga-clay-tiles/dura-ridge-tile-overview/ we got ours from LBS but it's the same product.

What is confusing you is the different layout of the terminals on the new switch. 2* reds from old switch top left go to new switch top right. Red and black from old switch top right to go new switch bottom right. Yellow from old switch bottom to go to new switch top left. In this case ignore new switch bottom left.

I meant correct that the reg's have no maximum gradient, not that the physics have changed. I agree that it is better to use moderate gradients or very steep, and avoid the grades where separation occurs. The reg's do say somewhere to maximise the radius at changes, and that will help it all to move along together. Minimum gradient is good for costs and keeping trenches high, but has the risk of any settlement causing a dip.

Thanks for the film: fascinating and you can see why it is expensive. Would it help to look at the positives? If you had chosen real marble, every piece would be different as it is a lump of mountain. The features would be flaws too, with the danger of cracking and of bits flaking out, and then catching muck. Here is an example of where it would come from, and the colour differences and flaws are visible even at this vast scale. Every slice different, even more than yours is. I think it would cost even more , too. Good luck with the other things too.

Re supporting the worktop where it bows, I would be looking to insert tapered wedges / shims at intervals to ensure there are no unsupported voids.

It does - these are for a 110mm pipe. If you use a 160mm pipe the minimum fall doubles to 1:160.

Absolutely. You'll soon find something else to lose sleep over and the anger will change to acceptance and eventually you'll not even think of it when you look at it. Having said that, see what they say about the bow and what offer they may put forward. I'd be warming myself up for the fact they may fob you off with tolerances etc and not wanting to cough up and replace at their expense. But that's just me being a pessimist. The more money I spend on things that should be perfect, there's always something that takes the shine off it.

If that will introduce an unwanted cold bridge then you can get GRP angles that will overcome that. Our doors and sliders are supported on them.

With the walls being pure brilliant white, it's only going to highlight the warmer creamier colour of the worktops if they are not the same shade when right up against them. What kelvin colour are your lights? Won't help in the day but upping the number slightly may make you feel a bit better of an evening when likely to be using the room in anger (literally).

I think what we will do is put an angle iron all the way along the bottom with some sort of blockwork and slabs underneath. Concrete is an idea though.

No they don't. This could be a Planning matter if the building is listed or in a Conservation Area but of no concern to Building Control.

You only need provide drawings and possibly details such as the materials and finishes. You don't need to tell them what it will be used for and I wouldn't. Our mistake was to build a double garage as a single and lean to. It's effectively a double garage with wall down the middle and that wall takes up space I'd rather have for other things.

What @newhome says. The only part of building regs I.m aware that requires a bath to be installed and accessible on the same storey as the master bedroom is in M4(2). However this is an optional requirement that only applies if compliance is stipulated as a planning condition. So if you don't have a planning condition, the regs for accessibility are M4(1) which just says: Sanitary facilities WC facilities 1.17 To enable easy access to a WC, a dwelling should comply with all of the following. a. A room (which may be a WC/cloakroom or a bathroom) containing a WC is provided on the entrance storey or, where there are no habitable rooms on the entrance storey, on the principal storey or the entrance storey. b. There is clear space to access the WC in accordance with Diagram 1.3. c. Any basin is positioned to avoid impeding access. d. The door to the room opens outwards and has a clear opening width in accordance with Table 1.1. I've quoted the other sections below in case you're inclined to read: Part G says in G5 Bathrooms: A bathroom must be provided containing a wash basin and either a fixed bath or a shower. Scale of provision and layout in dwellings 5.6 Any dwelling (house or flat) must have at least one bathroom with a fixed bath or shower, and a washbasin. Scale of provision and layout in buildings with rooms for residential purposes 5.8 The number of fixed baths or showers and washbasins in buildings with rooms for residential purposes should be in accordance with BS 6465-1:2006 and A1:2009 Sanitary installations. Code of practice for the design of sanitary facilities and scales of provision of sanitary and associated appliances Building Regs for Access to and Use of Buildings Part M4(2) Optional requirement M4(2): Category 2 –Accessible and adaptable dwellings 2.18 The provisions of Section 2B apply only where a planning condition requires compliance with optional requirement M4(2) for accessible and adaptable dwellings (see paragraphs 0.3 to 0.6). WC facilities on the entrance storey 2.27 To provide step-free access to a WC that is suitable and convenient for some wheelchair users and, where reasonable, to make provision for showering, dwellings should comply with all of the following. C In a two or three storey dwelling with three or more bedrooms, the room with the WC and basin also provides an installed level access shower or a potential level access shower, and the shower, WC and basin (together with their associated clear access zones) meet the provisions of Diagram 2.5. Examples of compliant WC layouts are shown in Diagram 2. Bathrooms 2.29 To provide convenient access to a suitable bathroom, the dwelling should comply with all of the following. a.Every dwelling has a bathroom that contains a WC, a basin and a bath, that is located on the same floor as the double bedroom, described as the principal bedroom in paragraph 2.25b. b.The WC, basin and bath (together with their associated clear access zones) meet the provisions of Diagram 2.5. Examples of bathroom layouts are shown in Diagram 2.7. c.Provision for a potential level access shower is made within the bathroom if not provided elsewhere within the dwelling.

Have a look at the latch and check if it has a little switch. This is the day/night mode and can be manually activated.

Then when you finish your build you can fill it with man toys!!! Uh bad pic.

No woodworking - I wish !! I am purely a DIY enthusiast, who "potters around", so somewhere for all my kit and some benches will be fine.

Thanks - Exactly the advice we need re: VAT reclaim, cheers. Will probably retro build a separate workshop now that we think of it.

Put the rafters on first then this will give you a better guide to fill in the small sections.

If you're including a workshop, it will never be big enough. It simply won't. But three phase sounds like a good idea for both car charging and workshop machinery. Have SP given you an idea of how much extra it might cost?

AFAIK you only need a ground floor WC to be accessible in buildings that are not defined as accessible and adaptable dwellings (it will state that as a planning condition if relevant). If not you only need one accessible WC on the primary entrance level but they like a shower too, or provision for a shower. Not sure why the BCO is going on about the upstairs bathrooms WRT width of the internal doors. There is absolutely no need for a bath. Sounds like the BCO has been looking at Category 2 in the M regs which is not relevant unless defined in the PP.

Thanks both. During discussion, last minute of course, I noticed the planners were confusing two terms defined in the glossary of the GPDO and made them aware they were misinterpreting the meanings. Our interpretations of this are opposing of course as I want planning permission and they don't want to grant it, but they were confusing terms and mis quoting the GPDO. Low and behold, communication halts, 36 hours later a refusal is issued. According to the properties and title of decision notice PDF, the author of the decision is a planning officer in the north east. Presumably she was drafted in last minute. Lots of her stated facts are inaccurate or plain wrong. It's fairly complex as we are in Green belt but I have case law to support my case, although they reviewed it and simply disregarded it. Appeal is my only way forward but wondered if there was any merit in giving weight to the procedural errors. I don't want to appear petty, but I would expect to be pulled up on similar errors. It all feels hastily cobbled together, the section of the GPDO quoted in the refusal is entirely different to the one quoted two days before and both planning officers went on leave the following day. Good idea, I will redact the notice and upload it. Thanks again.

The doors great . I was sent 4 soft close runners ( all different ) and 7 set of varying instructions. 1 set of instructions ( the correct one ! ) and 1 correct soft close runner would of helped substantially! . Eclisse didn’t seem interested in my plight “ we have lots of variations just use the instructions “ . They didn’t know which instructions were correct for me . I gave up in the end ; ignored all instructions and just experimented making up the frame on the floor . Not really what you expect for a premium product . The instructions btw are all quite similar but have variations here and there .

It would better to pitch the roof first,and then do the cuts to suit.

Mortar is fine.

Names have been changed to protect the guilty…….

£250 to get a panel painted? Go and find yourself a little back street automotive painter or if you use a local independent garage who are decent ask them if they know any auto painters. Where are you located? Not in Scotland are you?

https://wslaw.co.uk/insight/commencement-development-practical-tips-pitfalls/#:~:text=What is commencement%3F,period expressed on the permission.&text=In practice%2C very minor works,to commence a planning permission. Make sure you have done the CIL exemption paperwork before doing anything on the site.

I think there is another option before recourse to law, though Jack is right that if you do go down that route, it is your neighbour that you would have to take action against, rather than the contractors. If you do this, I would guess that there is very little chance of you co-operating together when you need to replace the whole roof - or indeed any other problem with a shared interest. Put the £1900 (regardless of who should pay that) towards the cost of a complete re-slate, at least of that side of the roof. This should be an equally shared cost, but it will solve all the problems of a mismatched patch, damage, and a roof nearing the end of its life. Perhaps more importantly, it will prevent you spending the rest of your life at daggers drawn with your neighbour, even if it does mean using some diplomacy at this stage. You may even need to swallow hard and forget whose 'fault' this is in the first place - your only aim is a satisfactory outcome, and if you both benefit from that, then that is the best out come. If things go to law, that has the potential to work out far more expensive than a new roof, and the only real winners then will be the lawyers.

Good move; much respect! For that gesture, you’ll get your money back many times over I think.

More likely he came to the same conclusion as the rest of us and realised it was not his job to buy them…… as others have said just get them ordered and move on, small change in the bigger picture.

builders merchants, jewsns, travis etc stock them. Not worth losing the good will of the builder over a £60 flashing kit. wood for the trees mate.

who is supplying the door handles ? Hinges and latches are normally part of the kit. builder will have priced for normal consumables like screws, nail gun nails and gas etc the flashing kits are separate because there are different kits depending on the roof tiles they need to flash. Just apologise to the builder explain you didn't understand and everything will be fine.

You are best emailing him and telling him that you have looked into it and realise that the window should be supplied with all the flashings and kit - he is probably thinking there is a row ahead - don't do it tonight though - trades hate getting after hours emails in the evening! It doesn't hurt to clarify any other gear he expects you to supply at the same time so you are prepared - you don't want to be caught on the hop for supplies at the moment - it is becoming increasingly chaotic getting gear to site.

Lol another here. Buy the flashing you tight git. They're not supplied as you buy different ones for different roof coverings.

Apologise and say it was your mistake. It goes a long way.

Sorry mate - I have to go with the flow here and say that all the bit for the window incl flashing will sit with you. As for you point on the floors, if fixings are silent, I would expect them to pick them up. As for the doors - if you are supplying doors, frames, handles etc - I would have thought that the hinges, latches and keeps would also be with you - supply frames, doors and door kits - same goes for the locks and bathroom kits.

Sorry but the flashing is your responsibility. They are separate as they depend on slate / tile / profile so it’s why they aren’t bundled. Supply for me is that you supply everything - install is install all items provided by the client.

Make it 6, Flashing kit is part of window.

5 replies saying down to you...

+1 I supplied all the Velux kit, windows to flashing to insulation collar, blinds etc. Got the whole lot delivered as one order.

A velux isn't complete without it's flashing kit.

Sorry, down to you I reckon. I supplied Velux x4 with flashing kits for my roofers to install, to make sure they had the correct ones. I think the insulation collar is optional; he can't reasonably have been expected to price for that too.

I'm afraid agree with the builder. I would take "Installation" to cover cover labour and consumables like general purpose adhesives but not special flashing kits. In the case of Velux type windows these are typically specific to the window and type of roof tile. That's just my opinion, others may disagree.

I think this one is down to you to pay for.

Caveat preemptor - @nod is unique in achieving such low figures. Being in the trade, owning your own business and doing nearly everything yourself puts you in a unique position. I wish people would add context when posting figures on here. The unwitting, lay person will see such posts and potentially misjudge costings for their own potential build. There are very few who achieve figures of £1000/m2 and below. Very few. I would suggest that the average tends to sit between £1300 - £1800 per m2 and that is heavily dependent upon standard of finish and the amount of work you take on yourself. You will also find that people on here report their figures very differently, some may include everything such as legal costs, landscaping etc. etc., whilst others will not. Take the figures you see on here with a healthy dose of salt and question what they have included, else you may gain a false impression. The number I mention above is pre Covid madness, God only knows what the average is now. I daresay it is a fair chunk more.