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It’s been a while since my last blog post and over the last 5 weeks the basement contractors have been busy and have finished the basement. Well, the external walls at least as we still need to build the internal walls and put the block and beam on top. It’s looking really good although it is a bit reminiscent of a prison with all the concrete and 3m high walls (not that I’ve been in many/any prisons that is, it’s just from watching movies). The groundworkers are back on-site tomorrow to carry on with fitting the external EPS insulation, backfill and the rest of the foundations for the above ground arms of our property. Here’s a sped up time-lapse video of the entire basement build. 3:40s long so it shouldn’t be too onerous to watch. We had one hiccup with the basement construction when the digger driver decided to turn the cab a bit too close to our existing house and crunch into the wall causing a massive horizontal and vertical crack. Luckily it was a room we use as a larder that is attached to the main building of our existing house but I still wasn’t happy especially when the main response I got was “well, you’re going to knock it down anyway” and “it’s only cosmetic”. Like that’s ok then ?. Anyway, they resined helibars in place to sure up the walls and, even though it doesn’t look great, I am at least happy that it won’t fall down before we knock it down. Apart from that, all is well and we’re happy with the basement and the progress so far and are looking forward to next week to see some more progress. Here are a few photos of the finished basement (although it's a lot cleaner now they've finished, I just don't have any photos since that happened! ?‍♂️). the sunken courtyard: During the basement build we had a road closure of our single track road to allow UK Power Networks and Southern Water to install our new 3-phase electricity connection and water. A road closure is a very expensive thing as the local council want their pound of flesh to pay for administration and notification of the road closure. So we had to pay for this twice. But, I managed to persuade both utility companies (actually Clancy Docwra for the water) to work under one road closure at the same time. Unbelievable and anyone I’ve ever spoken to has said “yeah, good luck with that!”. So, if anyone ever doubts that you can get utilities to work together I am proof that it’s possible. I will be getting a refund for the other road closure (that's about £2k saved thank you very much) which is a very nice bonus. UKPN came and dug the trench across the road, Clancy then put in their water main, backfilled a little and then UKPN put in their cable and then Clancy backfilled ready for Clancy to come along the next day and tarmac it. All done and dusted in 1 1/2 days. Very organised and efficient. I was suitably impressed. Here are some photos. ? water main being laid: now the electricity (in ducting): multiple utility companies working happily together (who'd have thought it?): our connected 3-phase head: Both water and electrics won't be connected until a long way down the line but at least they're in and that's another potential headache out of the way. Thanks again for reading and, until the next instalment, it’s goodbye from me.

Hi Everyone, I thought I should sign up to BuildHub as I'm about to embark on a new self-build project with my wife and we're going to need all the help we can get! We are recently retired and have since spent over a year or two looking for an ideal 'retirement' home. The search became very frustrating as we just couldn't find a house that was the right size and quality, and in the right place. We stumbled upon a 2 bed bungalow, with a detached garage, in an AONB, not far from where we live in Devon . The bungalow was situated on just less that 1/2 acre of land and had outline planning permission to demolish and to build 2 detached dormer dwellings. We bought the property in March 2020, without really knowing what we were letting our self into. Not averse to taking on a challenge, we decided to self build, so we employed an architect to draw up plans and to guide us through the Reserved Matters planning process. This turned out to be a nightmare, due to the outline planning conditions being challenging, delays due to COVID and the NEIGHBOURS, all of whom collaboratively objected. To cut a long story short, we got our planning permission earlier this month. I have contacted a number of demolition and groundworks contractors with the understanding that demolition of the bungalow should cost between £6000 - £10000. 'Should be about right', I thought, as the plot is fairly level and there are no issues with access. We had an Asbestos Survey and there is some asbestos as expected . I've received quotes from a number of contractors ranging from £11600 - £20000 way over our expectations. Because we are not in a hurry to demolish, I have decided to soft strip the bungalow myself, reclaiming what I can to build sheds etc. and taking what I can to the local tip in my trailer. Of course I will be recycling copper and other items and will be contacting the local scrap yard soon. We are still considering our options moving forward: Self demolish - hire an excavator, remove the asbestos and use an Environmental contractor to take it away. We intend to crush the concrete for use later. We were planning for timber frame and passive standard, but the price of timber is through the roof (excuse the pun). So we're still looking at Passive, but using traditional, ICF or even steel frame construction methods. This is going to be an exciting journey but realise that it's not going to be easy. I will be keeping a close eye on BuildHub pages on a daily basis.

Wait till you see what else happens on building sites in the real world.

Slightly less than that of being hit by a meteorite whilst swimming with sharks whilst wrapped in bacon after winning the euromillions… . I would seriously get on with the build and ignore the issue as any asbestos would have been cement bound plus the wind will have carried anything far away from the house.

A ancient haunted burial ground is more my luck. I think it's the views.

Caveat preemptor - @nod is unique in achieving such low figures. Being in the trade, owning your own business and doing nearly everything yourself puts you in a unique position. I wish people would add context when posting figures on here. The unwitting, lay person will see such posts and potentially misjudge costings for their own potential build. There are very few who achieve figures of £1000/m2 and below. Very few. I would suggest that the average tends to sit between £1300 - £1800 per m2 and that is heavily dependent upon standard of finish and the amount of work you take on yourself. You will also find that people on here report their figures very differently, some may include everything such as legal costs, landscaping etc. etc., whilst others will not. Take the figures you see on here with a healthy dose of salt and question what they have included, else you may gain a false impression. The number I mention above is pre Covid madness, God only knows what the average is now. I daresay it is a fair chunk more.

Progress moves on slowly. The first wall of the sun room has been clad in timber. The easiest wall, with just the big sliding door. This might not be everyone's idea of timber cladding. But we were both agreed we don't like untreated timber left to go silver / grey, mainly because it usually does not do so evenly. And we were agreed we don't want it stained / treated in some shade of orange. So it is painted. It took a while to choose the colour and then a while to find a source. The trouble was we wanted the walls of the sun room (and other garden stuff) painted the same colour as the decking and steps. If you start looking at the very few options of both paints in stock colours, you have a choice of brown or grey. We wanted neither. In the end this paint came from the big orange DIY shed where you can get a variety of different paints for different uses, in a wide range of colours mixed in the shop. so we chose "Willow Green" Because it was being painted, the choice of what timber was not a big issue, no point paying for some fancy expensive timber and then painting it. So this is cheap softwood treated "sarking" board sold in 100 and 150mm widths and in this case 22mm thick. Each plank painted with it's first coat of paint before being fitted and then a second coat after it was on. The area under the door to the left of the steps will be clad later. My philosophy is never cut a load of short lengths from a full length of timber. Cut all the rest of the long lengths first, and then cut the short lengths from the leftovers. So as and when suitable leftovers become available, the short bits will get done. And the very left hand plank is missing as that forms the corner so won't get fitted until the back wall is clad and that corner ready to be detailed.

As it is a workshop, go with the @joe90 method.

Ardex A38 dry screed can be ceramic tiled in 4 hours. Cementitious tile adhesive is completely different to the type of adhesive that the Amtico layers will use. There is an even quicker drying dry screws available, but I can’t remember the bloody name of it. I’ll ask my mate, he’s my got to screeder ( who will travel btw ). He laid @Russell griffiths screed. PM him if you want a reference. Top guys. You need to petition the fitters to find out what they’ll use before getting any more advice based on unknowns Ask questions about warranties if laid on liquid screeds vs dry screeds etc

Illbruck FM330? That's what I used after it being recommend by this forum.

NOW we wait for the paint to dry! Got my gland in!

Thanks for all your replies, pretty happy now from replies none would have got in through window, what still really bugs me and I can not forgive myself for is that after being outside talking to builders whilst it was all going on - was about 5 m away from when they dropped it in dumper and dust came up is that at no point did I consider changing clothes, wish it was windy that day to blow the dust away quickly, it was only that night after putting both kids to bed with loads of hugs that suddenly thought oh no it could be on my clothes - have read quite a bit about it getting stuck in clothing, just hope I was far enough way and not being the one to actually cut it that none got as far as me but really can't be sure and it is eating me up. Appreciate nothing can do and need to move on but keep coming back to that aspect of what happened. Lawrence

No I forget the make but it's top notch. Its in the garage I can tell you next time in there. Used it round all Windows underneath window board etc

Doesn't surprise me. They're advertising for emergency planning officers near me at £130 a day. Pay peanuts....etc.

Thank you both @tonyshouse and @nod - you’ve help me decide to leave it!

Under sills and window boards in through, between, over and under floor planks

I tile on lots of both Liquid is more expensive But flatter Traditional needs a day per mil to dry out 75 days typical Liquid is good to go after a week You will needs membrane under both So damp won’t be an issue with either

Sorry no, its was quite a few years ago.

Just reminds me of a situation my parents had years ago when replacing a roof with concrete tile and the Planning Officer wanted them to put in steel plates bolted together to strengthen it, but in such a way that it did not look to me to be anything but none-sense. Luckily we were in touch with a Forensic Surveyor and he sent a letter off to the PO and said "if he ever so much as darken your door again I will throw him in court!" Latter found out that the PO's major qualification for the job was that he did woodwork at school! He had major companies end up with roofs that did not match up and so on, seemed quite dangerous to be honest.

Thanks for reply, just praying nothing got in as kids are so young, have wiped surfaces down with wet kitchen towel, we are going to move out for next phase where they deal with the softfits, just so annoyed they cut them whilst still here next to the windows, really suffering anxiety issues for first ever time with this, anyone with industry knowledge would be great to know just what u p against and chances of stuff having entered the house. Thanks, Lawrence

Build up from the footings in blockwork, then swap to York Stone as soon as it will be visible (if it is suitable for below DPC). I think it will look better. Lap the floor DPM up and onto the DPC.

Not sure I can answer your question exactly, but I know exactly how you are feeling, it's very frightening and not completely rational. What has happened has happened, you can't take it back, only move forward. Can you send the kids to friends/ grand parents whilst you clean up/calm down so you don't frighten them? Fear isn't a fact. Remember damp is your friend. Wipe the surfaces and chuck the cloths. Throw everything you can in the washing machine. Anything which got through the window will be minuscule. I had asbestos soffits in an old house and had them covered with plastic glue on soffits to prevent dust. Is there some way to adjust the design? Do the Paul McKenna minimising thing, it really helps. Shrink it down and move it far away so its just a tiny thing in your mind's eye. So it's there, but you can forget about it. Then figure out how best to manage your risk going forward.

One of the greatest statements ever made!

You have a way with words @pocster ... ?

Cables entering as in plural? I wonder if the electrics in the lean to are just extensions of the house lighting circuits and ring mains rather than on a dedicated "Garage" circuit? Is there a circuit breaker in your consumer unit labelled as "Garage"?

Isolation of the electrical supply before the cables enter the lean-to. To make it safe for demolition. Cables could then be put into a waterproof socket or joint box to keep the cabling or removal back to the fuse board or nearest electrical point.

Or in @pocster's case, like watching pants dry...

Thanks, it's a big weight off my mind now it's done. Appreciate your informed help massively!

+1 We filled in the web both sides and used similar joist hangers with long tail that wrapped over the top of the I beam and were nailed both sides.

There are several us on here who lost family members to asbestosis. I lost my dad, and his only known exposure was as supervising (ie not working directly on it) Council architect on a ventilation system with asbestos in it 40 years before he died. So minimal exposure can do it but yours sounds small enough to be relatively safe. But *never* relax about it. So I find @Ralph's comment below to be rather too broadbrush: High levels over time is what causes problems like asbestosis. I would not worry about what you've described at all and it sounds like you are generally being careful anyway.

We had our PD rights removed when we built an extension - a modest one. At the time we neither had the time or money to appeal it with the council. We weren't happy but there you go. So now I am in the position where we would like to build a structure which under PD rights wouldn't be a problem. Because we have had them removed it is a problem. I have been quoted £950 plus VAT and fees. I have been told we have a good chance of getting the PD's reinstated. I just wonder whether anyone has done this for themselves on here? I can't seem to find any information out apart from the professional planning consultants who advertise themselves. I am not against the planning consultants earning a living, we just don't have a spare £1000 plus VAT and fees.... We are not listed. We are not in a conservation area. We are in an area of archaeological interest - but that should not take away PD rights, so I've been told. We have had all PD rights removed A to E due to our modest extension - which incidentally we now think would have fallen under PD rights!!!!!

More progress! Really pleased with the brick choice and decision to go with a raked out mortar joint, hopefully mortar will dry light grey. Rooms looking a good size now walls are up. instagram photo download chrome

Word of advice, if you can relax a bit and just accept Christmas, you and those around you will have a better life. I don't know if your target date is driven by you and your families own expectations and eagerness to get in or if there is a financial implication or maybe current living situation implication. I used to set targets and dates for completion stages all the time, until my wife asked me what would happen if we were not done by date X. We were on holiday when she asked me this and I had a clear head, I thought for a bit, but I must have looked rather perplexed to her because I had no answer. Nothing would happen, I'd have just failed to meet my target date. We came back from holiday with a new date, it came and went, I didn't care. It will be what it will be. I now even have some weekends off from working on "the site". We are actually nearly done, our gravel arrived today for the newly landscaped bits, so did our fence timber. Maybe I should say completion date is the 27th of June... or maybe not, who cares. It will get done. I got my completion certificate yesterday so technically I am done, but you are never done with a property until you sell it!

If you implement the LADs clause your are going to get into all sorts of interesting discussions about the weather, materials shortages, COVID and possible spec alterations if you have made any. The outcome of discussions will probably result in him walking off site - think carefully how you want to kick this chat off!

There ya go @flanagaj: I would - Just Bloody Do It - .

Apologies Heres some context While I own a business we used labour from our business for six man days only Extra pair of hands with the render for three days and one man to help me get the slates up onto the roof The footings and brickwork I did myself Even though I’m not a Brickie Then brought five Brickies in to build the rest I did all the joinery I’m not a joiner Most of the plumbing and electrical With the guidance of a sparks who did all the checks and terminations as did a heating engineer with the boiler and helped me with the UFH which I had no clue of to start with I’d never slater a roof before but learned With several hundred m2 of Italian tiles three German bathrooms and a expensive German kitchen We could have easily cut costs The clues in the title Self Build If you are looking at turn key The M2 price will be high While people need to be realistic with there budget I don’t think shooting there self build dream down before they start is encouraging Anyone needing context from posts on here only need to look at previous posts I’m sure I’ve put a spreadsheet on when we did our vat claim Or they can always Ask ?

The "economy" has a built in tendency to go through boom and bust cycles (in spite of one previous chancellor claiming to have eliminated that.) The best time to build is during a bust cycle, as long as your own finances will allow that. During a bust cycle everyone is afraid of spending money, afraid of loosing their job, so demand is low, no competition for material and labour is plenty. As soon as you get a hint of a boom cycle, everyone starts spending like they have to buy it now or they won't be able to afford it later, so demand goes through the roof, prices go up and it becomes hard to find material or labour. This is not the best time to be building as you can't proceed with much certainty about when it will get done and how much it will cost. But this is where we are now. A lot of people have spent the last 18 months doing nothing, spending nothing, shut up inside worrying. All that pent up demand and cash is now flowing. But few have the luxury of choosing when to build. Other circumstances will dictate that. My own guess: If this "boom" is just fuelled by the Covid lockdown and pent up demand, it will be short lived. Perhaps 2 years would be my guess? Then the realities of debt and inflation are going to hit home hard for a lot of people.

Yes expecting to pay 10% more overall for our new build. Most materials have gone up by way more but our labour and professional fees have been static. We just poured the slab yesterday. I'd be content in the fact that you have sold your property when prices are at an all time peak. We have yet to sell ours as building within the garden and am hopeful that the increase in value offsets the increase in the costs.

The last six weeks have been a bit of a slog but have finely got the roof finished, PV fitted and first floor cladding and windows fitted. Scaffolding came down yesterday 3 weeks longer than planed big hole in wallet. First floor chipboard flooring down so will start on the ground floor windows and studwork. But now back to real work as well.

So Series 10 Episode 1 was shown tonight. Below are my show notes. Location: Hertfordshire (Potters Bar) The Self-builders: Bob (retired firefighter) & Wendy (chartered accountant & writer). Experienced with renovations & an extension. Eight children. Setting the Scene: Oct 2016 – Charlie visits to meet the self-builders & review site and plans Secured planning permission for four bedroom chalet bungalow on back garden plot. Nominal value of plot £350k. £350k build budget. £950k expected value for completed house. Targeting completion in 12 months Eco-features: Solar panels and rainwater harvesting Impressive westerly views towards green belt – Charlie suggests changing ground floor layout to take advantage of this with a large kitchen diner with bifolds in west elevation. Suggests replacing two small dormers with large, long dormer clad in zinc The Build: Aug 2017 – Groundworks underway after approval of revised plans. Ridge height too high so site lowered by 2m. Piling and groundbeam (£30k) required. Muckaway cost £10k. Total groundworks cost £50k. Block & beam floor installed. Timber frame (standard 140mm with OSB sheathing) erection commences. Posi-joists. Kingspan Kooltherm insulation, Protect VC foil air-tightness layer, Protect TF200 Thermo external membrane. Sept 2017 – Roof timbers erected. Windows (look like Aluclad uPVC) being installed. Oct 2017 – Charlie returns. Expecting completion June 2018. The Visit to Another Self-build: Larch clad four bedroom barn style home in Loughborough. Double height hallway. Power floated concrete floor. The Build contd: Dec 2017 – Roof tiles & solar panels (12No) installed Feb 2018 – Brick skin has been (miraculously as we never see a single brick being laid) installed. Plasterboarding ongoing. Apr 2018 – Polished porcelain floor tiles being laid. Decorating with help of family & friends (to save v £6k quoted) May 2018 – Plumbing. Kitchen fitting. Self-builders move in in late May. July 2018 – Charlie visits completed home (called Luxton Lodge). Double height hallway with skylight above. The final figures: Actual build costs £350k including VAT but with some landscaping incomplete giving total cost of £700k. Bob put in a lot of work himself (shown fixing cladding and doing plumbing).(However, why does this figure never include design or the other project costs? Actual valuation of £1.2M (2018 prices). Impressive figures but as usual with these backgarden plots, the reduction in value of the original house never seems to get mentioned.

That is a expensive plot, i would do a sanity check to make sure the house prices in the area reflect that and your build cost. it would be pushing it a lot with about £1,100 /m2 and you will be having to do loads of work yourself. I think to give yourself a fighting chance budget for £350k (~£1,500 /m2) There are people on here that have done less than £1,000 /m2, but they are generally in the trade and have done loads themselves and it has taken years. Where are you and your family going to live during the build? How much is the Fleming timber frame going to cost you, as that its going to take a good amount of your budget.

Hey! I have my basement constructed and it will be a fully liveable area. You need to consider ground structure. We were in solid virgin rock and although council and neighbours bitched it wasn't much of an issue 1100tons from memory. Admittedly I did all the work myself ( apart from the excavation ) - so my costs are rock ( no pun intended ) bottom. The extra space though at extra cost depends on the 'wealth' of your neighbourhood and value of a standard property. I used the concrete lego blocks to build the retaining walls ; with rebar in them and then just one concrete pour for the entire lot. Basement issues as you state will be ventilation - but MVHR solves that anyway. Macerator to pump waste/foul up to drain - no real big issue there. Our kitchen will be underground so yes carrying food/washer/freezer down there will be a pita. I've got a dumb waiter - she's called SWMBO ( don't ever repeat that or I'll be stabbed in my sleep ). Costs?. Depends how much you are willing to do I guess. I presume you are adding a basement to an existing house not building the entire thing from scratch??

I think they knocked that on the head a while ago.

?

You know what they say, anything's a dildo if you're brave enough.

Is that a giant dildo on the floor ?

This thread is like watching paint dry.........