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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/06/21 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    You will get far better and probably cheaper results using MF Chanel and framing
  2. 2 points
    My thoughts are stick to what the structural engineer said, then design in your insulation.
  3. 1 point
    Another of the multiple 'things I read and know but have now forgotten' ones here. Currently speccing insulation boards for contractor and can't quite remember why the more expensive Kingpsan Thermowall boards are better than the Celotex or Quinn equivalents when the given u-value for everything seems to be the same on all the data sheets. Any help appreciated!
  4. 1 point
    Wago connectors
  5. 1 point
    A good smear of Jet Blue Plus on a compression fitting allows you do do it up tighter, with no nasty brass on brass squeak as well as getting in the nooks and crannies of the threads so as to help make a seal. I don't use ptfe tape at all now on olive type compression fittings. I push pipe into fitting then smear round where it goes in. Then push the olive down onto the smeared seat. Another smear and do the nut up.
  6. 1 point
    That works on the side without the Resilient bar, but what about the side with the bar? Just a whole skin of Plywood or OSB3? Without: With on RB side:
  7. 1 point
    Best check what the DNO for your area say regarding the meter, meterbox, hockey stick duct etc.
  8. 1 point
    Normally they require you to install a meter box on an outside wall and bring the connection up into that. If the cable runs up the outside of the wall it might need covering/protecting but I think that may only be necessary where there is a risk of a car impacting it? I'm not 100% sure about that though. You can get plastic covers to stop rain getting in through the hole but I've just had one crumble on me due to uv exposure.
  9. 1 point
    Best to have a go with a pressure washer then mate and see how they come up. There may be quite a change if mine were anything to go by.
  10. 1 point
    A site near me had 3 no. piles installed to lock in the consent. Another demolished some buildings.
  11. 1 point
    Insulation installers use a belt larger than their waist and put the tape through the belt so it’s always to hand and as Mr Punter says keep the backing longer when ripping the tape off. rope or wire around the waist also works.
  12. 1 point
    Don't tear or cut through the paper and foil both at once. Leave the paper longer than the foil.
  13. 1 point
    In my limited experience, the only firm way is to do something that should be inspected by building control, we've dug foundations for strip footings and another site stripped back for a raft foundation literally two days before the expiration date, didn't get concrete for 18 months on that one. have also installed a sewer run, widened an access gateway etc. Without having an inspection carried out what records you've done any work? As above are there any conditions that can be cleared and also constitute a start.
  14. 1 point
    They didn't give you a cooling load though? With a cooling load number you can compare with cooling power of comfopost (given airflow rate). We got this from PHPP cals. From what you describe though, assuming high levels of insulation and airtightness too, it sounds like you are same as us roughly then, and Comfopost would probably be enough for some supplementary heating/cooling. If this is the case, MVHR approach is going to be easier and less obtrusive as pipes already there and no need to plumb fan coil units in. You could still put pipes in incase, but we were very confident, given calcs, that even with global warning fan coil units wouldn't be needed. We have done this only for first floor. Its worth doing now to ensure Comfopost fits somewhere and that first floor MVHR pipes are insulated. Enhabit did our cooling load calculations, MVHR design and have supplied Comfopost for us. Give me a shout if you need any more specific info.
  15. 1 point
    Seems to be all the rage on commercial jobs but still on boards
  16. 1 point
    Where the phrase "our little secret" comes from!
  17. 1 point
    You mean first two courses off the founds..? All fine - they aren’t “foundation blocks” as these are normally full width for the foundation and the cavity combined.
  18. 1 point
    Hi everyone. We're about to start a Passsivhaus standard timber frame house project, so I'm sure I'll be asking lots of questions about heat pumps, windows, solar PV, battery storage etc!
  19. 1 point
    A squirt of fairy liquid would do no harm for that amount.
  20. 1 point
    The top picture still looks like a plain and bottom a mix to me The bricks should be ready sorted into packs Bricklayers won’t start sorting through packs
  21. 1 point
    With a concern at each trade interface?
  22. 1 point
    Best to, you don't want to get done for contamination. We all know what happened to Brian Aldridge and he was only just down the road from you.
  23. 1 point
    Thanks to @Roys the blade turned up today. Not looked anymore at the brush cutter yet. Been making the most of the weather and cutting lawns, trimming trees etc.
  24. 1 point
    I've used their paint on the ceiling in my bathroom. Was having a hig issue with mould and peeling above the shower where the ceiling gets wet. Worked really well. First time I only painted the bit over the shower. 6 months later that area was still mould free but I could see it appearing further away from the shower on the bits I hadn't done. Whole ceiling done now!
  25. 1 point
    Wowser! @nod are you still brave enough? Does he do the cement based for you too? Which one do you normally go with, still liquid? If you'd be happy to pass on contact details of your Screeder that would be great (PM welcome)
  26. 1 point
    Ok so about half done and here's a glimpse of what we have done today and what they will look like with the fence panels bracketed on. The wooden posts are fixed onto the barriers/posts, not concreted in rather just for appearance. Really pleased with them and went for feather edge panels over waney lap. They will be sprayed with creosote or my dad said he does his with old engine oil so I'll opt for this easier job next weekend!
  27. 1 point
    Its the only way you can get a legally binding decision that you have started from the planners. Any ordinary letters from them aren't legally binding. A wind farm near us built the access gate and some meters of road then applied for a certificate of lawfulness to confirm work on the windfarm had started in order to delay building until the grid could cope. They eventually built the wind farm some years later after planning permission would have expired. Its a judgement call. Do you pay the fee for the certificate or trust that you can prove development was legally started. In the case of a multi £ million wind farm its a no brainer. Development is defined under the 1990 Town and Country Planning Act as "the carrying out of building, engineering, mining or other operation in, on, over or under land, or the making of any material change in the use of any building or other land". Which is a bit vague in my opinion. Its also worth noting that it must be a legal start, so you need to check you have met any planning conditions that require you to do something before development starts. Ditto the CIL exemption.
  28. 1 point
    This tape with the scrim seems to be very strong and stick well! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302772723552?hash=item467ea91f60:g:ubMAAOSwo9VbI84~
  29. 1 point
    Not that I am aware, we had one particularly stroppy neighbour and their objections to the original planning application were thrown out resoundingly by the areal officer 👍
  30. 1 point
    I had useful , off-the record, advice from a national insulation supplier. For the best price, never mention any trade names. For example, if you say you asked for a price for 'Celotex or an alternative', then they had to give the quote for only Celotex, or at least not undercut it. It was an agreement with the suppliers. I think the idea was that if an Architect specified a product, and the supplier may have helped with the design, then they would get the order. That gets difficult sometimes , how to ask for rock wool without saying Rockwool. That may not be the issue in your case, but could be. Also I learnt that they charged different prices in different areas, even if it all came straight to site in one big load from the factory. Just because they could. 75% discount in Oxfordshire, but only 65% in the South East, I seem to recall. I think the same, re names, can apply to other products at builders' merchants. Do tell us the best prices you get , please. We can all save each other a lot with the benefit of insight.
  31. 1 point
    I have been using the 100mm aluminium foil ultratape, been getting it from toolstation or ebay. I always wipe the surface with a damp methylated spirt cloth beforehand to get good adhesion. Nothing will stick to dirt or dust.
  32. 1 point
    No difference. Now if you were comparing the Kingspan Kooltherm or other higher spec insulation there is a difference but not with the Kingspan thermowall. The biggest difference will be in the installation rather than insulation. A well installed insulation board with no gaps will perform much better than a poorly cut and fitted board.
  33. 1 point
    Sorry for such a slow reply. I'm not sure how useful this is now, but this is how we are doing it. We are using eps to the sides of the ductwork and then using some 3/8" thick 150mm aluminium that we have bought pre powdercoated from a supplier we have been using. The holes will be cut for the vents and then these vents will tidy up the holes: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08TC9HCH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also, we have added 75mm of rockwool EW to the entire exterior of the house to put any steels inside the thermal envelope and use simpson strongtie brackets to take the cladding using 5mm thermal breaks. The insulation is wrapped in solitex fronta quattro with an open siberian larch cladding with 6mm gaps to keep it nice and ventilated.
  34. 1 point
    Internal backdrop (which that image is) are not normally allowed and they prefer the use of external back drops and the use of cored access into the channels. The downside with these use of external backdrops into existing chambers is that they sometimes have concrete encasement to the rings which means you need big access holes to core into the chamber. That picture is amusing as it wouldn’t pass any BRegs inspection : - None of the pipework is strapped / retained - The bottom bend is a double socket - it should be a rest bend with plain end - The coring through has not been sealed / made good - The tee isn’t capped / secured (debatable/dependent on the BCO) - It cannot be rodded as the tee obstructs the end of the main run There are much better images and methods..!! This is a good example.
  35. 1 point
    If the pipe's cut dead square and with a slight chamfer on the inside top edge I can't see why there would be a problem with just fitting a normal swept branch on to it. It's nice to have a socket poking up at exactly the right height out of the slab, but my guess is that this is very rare. We have a swept bend, just like the one illustrated above, under our slab. However, because the insulation is 300mm thick and the slab another 100mm thick, the swept bend is way below finished floor level. We therefore had a tall stub of pipe sticking up out of the concrete, with a plastic cap taped on it to ensure it stayed clean. When I came to fit the swept branch at the base, all I did was very carefully cut the pipe to length, making sure it was dead square, with the required external chamfer to go into the fitting and a very light internal chamfer. The pipe abuts against the stop inside the branch which is, by design, fractionally smaller than the ID of the pipe, specifically to ensure that there's no upward-facing lip to catch anything. On one external 110mm pipe connection (the one from the kitchen waste external trap to the inspection chamber) the only way I could fit it was with a slip coupler. These have no internal lip, so it is essential that you cut the ends of both pipes absolutely dead square. I'm sure there is probably a tool for doing this, but I made up a jig, using a bit of 6" x 6" x 1/4" aluminium alloy angle that I happened to have. I stuck it in the band saw and made a dead square saw cut through 3/4s of it, and I then used this to cut all the pipes dead square. I found that this made life very easy, as I just marked where I wanted to cut on the pipe with a Sharpie, put the jig on so I could just see the black line in the slot, duct taped the jig to the pipe (both sides), then used a wide mitre saw blade in a hacksaw frame to cut the pipe. The wide mitre saw blade is better than any other saw blade, IMHO, as it is wide enough to stay square in the jig and has no kerf on the teeth, so doesn't wear the jig away, plus it makes a cleaner cut through the pipe. To clean the inside of each pipe end to get a very slight chamfer I used a self-aligning metal deburring tool (like this: To chamfer the outside of pipes fitting into push-fit connectors I just clamped my belt sander into a Workmate at the right angle, turned it on then rested the pipe in the gap in the Workmate bed and rotated it against the belt. This gave a nice even outside chamfer every time, and only needed a quick scrape with a Stanley knife blade to get the fluffy bits off.
  36. 0 points
    Yes the one I linked .. https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-multi-purpose-wood-filler-250ml/p15238
  37. 0 points
    Presumably those two in the foreground are done with the light brown?
  38. 0 points
    I'm in Sevenoaks or thereabouts... No primer required with Bedec Barn Paint... Got a mate lives in Nutfield...I went to Esher once, felt very out of place!
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