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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/30/21 in all areas

  1. Do you have any of the aluminium left over, looks like it needs some sort of deflection away from wall . You could slot it under your existing aluminium and bend it round and away from wall. Regards James
    2 points
  2. So we finally exchanged contracts on this place and I now feel a bit more able to post more about it. I am hoping to do a "Just Doing It in Suffolk" thread on here to document our progress and also to ask for HELP along the way!! Anyway, here is a bigger picture of the plot and the bungalow which is actually an older Scandia Hus import from 1990......I think the bungalow is only going to be half the work!
    2 points
  3. These prices seem complete madness. A good fabricator can knock this up. But even on a quick Google I can see much cheaper options? Albeit not bespoke
    2 points
  4. Jack The good news is that Crittal themselves developed the steel sections & these are available commercially. Enterprising artisans are now offering bespoke units using these very sections. The sections are W20; W30 & W40. You can actually get them from China via Aliexpress - just saying.
    2 points
  5. I e used these to plot out gas electric water
    1 point
  6. Just had a look. Alistair, you have a beautiful home!
    1 point
  7. +1 A piece like this if you can get it behind both bits of flashing.. Some sealer will be needed as well I think.
    1 point
  8. As regards ROI. It cost me a total of £1500 (by some very careful buying) to put together my 4Kw grid tie system and I am typically self using £250 worth of electricity each year giving a 6 year payback. Most of the self use is the big appliances in the daytime and other house loads, with about 1/4 of the generation going into the immersion heater. Rarely enough to heat all the water for the day but a big contribution on a sunny day.
    1 point
  9. Where I live I insulated my approximately 105m2 floor with 2 layers of 100mm PIR board, one in between my floor joists, and one across under my floor joists by using long screws and batten. It was only worth doing that much because the walls and roof have similar insulation. Whilst under the floor has some protection from the cold I save approximately 10kw per hour if I want 23C inside and its 0 degrees outside just from the floor insulation. I have LPG which is supplied in 47kg bottles so I know exactly how much energy I use on hot water and heating, and the last 12 month review meant I used about 6000kW hours for the whole year. Often people talk about what in theory they would use, using this, and that, but I know coz I counted the bottles that woz empty! I have also insulated an existing bungalow floor by lifting up the carpet and making a hole in the floor to slide strips of insulation and batten in. That also had an incredible effect. The rule of thumb for me is if your going to stay in your property (not doing up to sell) then definitely insulate a suspended timber floor if there is enough depth. (and foam any gaps to keep the joists snug). So if I was doing one layer of 100mm at about what £20 per m2? So for the one layer I would by about £1,900 of board for 105m2 floor (don't forget to deduct for the width of the timber joists if its going in between) Batten and screws say £100 so budget 2k. It would take me about 3 weeks to install going under the floor and avoiding cables. For a suspended floor of 100m2 with no insulation ( floorboards and carpet between you and the cold air) when it was a constant 5C outside and a constant 23C inside (this never happens!) I estimate you would be losing about 10.39kW per hour through the floor. For a suspended floor of 100m2 with 100 rigid insulation between joists when it was 5C outside and 23C inside I estimate you would be losing about 0.431kW per hour through the floor. Saving about 240kW a day in these conditions. Well, someone is sure to correct me, but that's what I roughly calculate.
    1 point
  10. A 2.2kW system on my roof (23 degree slope) where I live would give me about an average 71kW of power in the month of January and a peak of about 324kW in the month of June. Although there is loss of heat through the tank related to the temperature of the water, the insulation and air /room temperature, if we take a simplistic approach and just look at the water usage and temperature of water refilling the tank, we can have a rough idea of how much energy you would use to heat up the replacement water used each day Say the use is 2 good showers a day. Assume each 10 minute long (I do about 4 mins) at about 43 centigrade (hot temp my wife likes not me). Shower flows at the shower head say 10 litres a minute (I love simple maths) That would be 200 litres of 43 degree water used. (at this point there is lots of minute detail about cold water in the tank being heated to 63 (I love simple maths) and then blended down to 43ish degrees therefore using less of the hot stuff but 200 litres at 43 degrees or 136.5 litres at 63 degrees blended with cold needs about the same energy to produce (ish) if its from the same source, so lets stick with it.) Ok the question is how much energy is required to raise 200 litres of (say winter cold) 5 degree C water up to 43C The raise in temperature is 43 - 5 = 38 I believe the Specific heat of water is about 4.19 kJ/kg K (That's every litre of water you want to raise 1 degree C means you use 4.19 killajoules) So the maths is 200 litres raised in temperature by 38 degrees is 7600 units. Times these by the the kJ required for each unit (4.19) gives you 31,844 kJ So we have 31,844 kJ which converts to kilowatt/hours (if I'm right 1kW hour equally 3600 kJ) So divide by 3600 gives you 8.85 kw of energy needed per day or approximately 264kW hours per (winter) month I am hoping that this will be corrected by those who know better and then used by those who want to check their own hot water use. Marvin
    1 point
  11. You may wish to find out how much PV energy (therefore hot water you will get in the winter). I use this to calculate: https://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvg_tools/en/tools.html First choose your exact location on the map. then choose set up (i.e. off grid) tab to the right of the map. Then fill in the figures: panel wattage etc. Then hit the button at the bottom which says visualise results. Depending on your situation you may want to look at a small ASHP. I am not sure. The £ and the reliability need looking at. I always hate wasting the PV power and batteries are expensive... I am working on spliting my mains power and having the MVHR running on PV with battery back up because it only uses about 22watts per hour and the excess power produced in the summer (about 4 times the winter PV generated) to supply my lights, with mains back up. Best of luck Marvin
    1 point
  12. 100mm isnt enough fall over 4.8m you need min 1:40 to comply with building regs.
    1 point
  13. Don't panic, the time pressure they have put you under distorts your clarity of thought. Making a mood board helps if you can get samples. Have breaks to let your unconscious consider things, as it can send you crazy to overthink with your conscious mind. I understand what you mean about a large area of (wood) floor and a wall of wood being 'too much', a bit like wearing a leather jacket, or trousers is ok, but not both together. However if they complement or even contrast, rather than match, it can work. Texture is important, so for example an all white room can look clinical and stark, but looks good if there are loads of differences in textures, eg rough walls, fluffy blankets or whatever. Wood is tactile so bear that in mind. Another 'rule' I find helpful is to have no more than 3 colours in a room. I count wood of all types as one of the colours, it's soothing and really helps with coherence. The room above 'works' because the of the browns in the woods/brick, the black of the TV and the whitish walls. You may chose to break up the visual expanse of floor with rugs and the walls with pictures, so try to imagine pleasing vignettes of what you will see from various vantage points. Not sure that exactly answers your question, but I hope it helps.
    1 point
  14. If you connect the new system wit a normal grid tie inverter, you will need prior permission of your DNO as you can only automatically install up to 3.68kW. There may or may not be a network upgrade charge to allow that. The off grid idea might be simpler and put it all to the immersion heater, no need to tell the DNO anything,. As to how to use it? Well don't heat the hot water tank in the morning. Leave it for the solar PV to heat during the day and heat it as necessary wit the boiler in the evening. But that is tricky if your family want to shower in the morning.
    1 point
  15. I would get a hose up there running on the roof carefully to soak just the roof not the wall and leave it running for a few hours. Position it to try and soak the edge of the roof where it joins the wall. This will rule out a roof problem, or identify a roof problem.
    1 point
  16. I cannot see that being true, (although I have had almost all my experience with gas) If someone has had that experience I would expect it was the size of the boilers or installation differences that made the difference. If your not having solar hot water then yes I think Conor is right about the combi. If I remember my training, I think you should size the combi to ensure you have enough instant hot water coming out for the shower you want, and this will probably decide the size of the boiler rather than the heating requirement. But I'm sure I will be corrected if I'm wrong. If I had mains gas, electric, or LPG as the only power sources I would always choose mains gas. Make sure that you fill the loft with insulation all over as much as possible to a foot thick: this is the most cost efficient way of improving the property insulation, along with cutting out any unnecessary drafts. I am in a 99m2 bungalow with no mains gas. Good luck Marvin
    1 point
  17. Take a look at my blog to see how i've done it, i'm also in a 60s bungalow. I've used PIR, but always make sure that there is something holding the PIR in place from underneath, i used metal clips screwed into the joists, as I have had it in the past drop down with the natural movement of walking on the floors. Plenty of expanding foam in any gaps, and whilst the floorboards are up you may as well whack an airtight membrane down before putting the boards back in, even a breather membrane will be better than nothing if you don't want the expense, and make sure its all taped up and taped to the wall before skirting goes back on. Make sure all ventilation paths are fully open, and insulate the pipe as temp has said, as the temperatures following insulation to the floor in the void will be much colder during winter than before.
    1 point
  18. Is it too late to get the Door frame over the EPS upstand, and aligned with the insulation? We used a 9.5mm thick GRP L Section (www.steponsafety.co.uk), sitting on top of the EPS upstand to support the door and window frames. Ours was put in before the slab pour, but they could be fitted after. This threshold is within a covered porch, so we went without the drain, but did tip the outside surface away from the opening by 1°.
    1 point
  19. Almost out of desparation I called in to Jewson on Tuesday. And there they had a ligtweight galvanised 600 by 600 and tey only charged me £28 First time I have seen one that size.
    1 point
  20. Systems get regularly and repeatedly topped up, for sealed and pressurised systems, so there will be a life-long influx of fresh oxygen rich water which is the reason that the inhibitors presence is of importance.
    1 point
  21. If you can smell it, its not working right. One morning i detected a smell, just like a old septic tank, and found that it had indeed stopped working. Not sure for how long it had been like that. Getting it going again, the smell was gone in a day.
    1 point
  22. @jack I'm going through this as well, as we need one double internal sliding door and one single internal sliding door and we also want steel. Two suggestions to bring the price down: Instead of having that fixed pannel at the top, just have two taller doors. It will be simpler and also look nicer as large high doors emphasise the height of the ceiling. Based on quotes I have had, companies like Fabco might be in the £4k to £7k range, but will include survey and installation, rather than supply only. Here is a quote I had from them for two sets of doors: a large external door and a smaller internal one: Worth speaking to them and understanding what format would be cheapest, but it might be that it's the extra complexity of having to support that top light and having the sliders being hung from that that take it out of their usual manufacturing process and make it dearer.
    1 point
  23. The wall is rendered above the roof so I'm not entirely convinced that the problem is a missing cavity tray. It might be but I would expect newish render to keep most if the water out of the cavity. I would look at how the flashing has been done as per... Perhaps wait until its all dry and take a hose up there. Play it on the flashing not the wall and see it damp spots appear.
    1 point
  24. Looks ok you need to brace off the wall Two on each stud 800 and 1600 off the floor As you say a piece of track bent at right angles and a pan head in either corner to hold it in place Fire it to the wall and two more pan heads through the track and stud
    1 point
  25. My apologies for butting into this thread - but gable end glazing is very much on my mind & this thread popped up. Olly P Kudos - a bloody great hole without, apparently, knowing quite how to fill it! I'm sure you had a cunning plan. I have a hole (on paper) that I'm trying to get a handle on how/who to glaze it. I'm in the early research stages & these system suppliers surface: AluK; Origin & Sieger. I note that BMBifoldingdoors has been referenced in the thread - so worth a punt. So, could you share any thoughts on who supplied your glazing & maybe any pointers to alternatives? The same question is directed towards other contributors - I need all the advice I can get! Cheers
    1 point
  26. They haven't no and that will be our first priority to do a survey with a sound engineer. We just have to find an independent one who is not a "recommended" one by the fencing company And yes it goes over 1m. Both neighbours' shrubbery on in the back of their gardens also goes well over a meter from what I can see. But it's good to know that we shouldn't need planning as we will be replacing the old ones, thank you
    1 point
  27. @Olly P That's Beautiful, well done. Mine will look close to this, although the glazing company have suggested the triangle piece will need an upstand so the horizontal bar wont quite be at the angle. Also interested in insulating the steels question, but also the detail for the bit between floors, I cant quite visualise in my mind how the pieces will go together.
    1 point
  28. Only a small example. My sun room, the last bit of the house that we are just finishing now. Maybe not the clean look some want as there is a stack of beams between the 2 panes to support the roof ridge beam.
    1 point
  29. Looks great, what did you do for cold bridging of the steels in this project, just insulate from the inside? I have something similar and I am a the stage windows are about to be installed.
    1 point
  30. Harry the naughty. The middle One. "what is physically and materially added to the original roof" whatever of the existing loft that becomes habitable space don't count because it already exists......So just what you are adding on in respect of volume buddy/
    1 point
  31. Not for PD but you can’t claim the VAT back so unless you’ve got the materials lying around that happen to be spare from the build .... ?
    1 point
  32. Just to say from my own experience of recently completed the VAT reclaim. I had just the one rejection and now resubmitted this invoice and will obtain back every penny due. The building merchant did not put sufficient information on a VAT invoice provided. This was for velux windows and was recorded as an individual line 'velux windows' on the invoice but the HMRC wanted to see the individual items listed for each velux window ordered on the invoice. This was oversight by me as I should have gone back to them then, but it was the busy point of the build and I had loads of invoices. They were pretty quick at come back to me when I explained the problem and provided the revised invoice. Just for reference here is what your invoices should show. https://www.gov.uk/vat-record-keeping/vat-invoices
    1 point
  33. I would (and have) run CAT6 (and CAT6a where I am running external PoE, not 6a everywhere) structured cabling back to 2 patch panels. I did consider fibre but decided just running some ducts was more sensible instead. One thing I underestimated considerably was service void requirements - if I was doing this again I would cater good size separate voids to run plumbing, electrics and network in along with spare ducting too. In my case it's compounded by my radial distribution for both all plumbing and electics so the amount of crap running about is crazy... Drop unused CAT6 into walls behind where you might need it in future (every corner?) and/or empty ducting will be sufficient I would think in addition what you'll actually have visible.
    1 point
  34. But they'll regularly bring members of the opposite sex back for feeding and washing and general maintenance. Which means only one thing..... yearly de-sludging. ?
    0 points
  35. Belated cheers @Big Jimbo Would have responded sooner, but was swamped with putting together the planning app in time....to avoid the enforcement notice....in order to waste as much time as possible. Because apparently that is what I am reduced to: a pro council timewaster!
    0 points
  36. Sorry misunderstood the title ...
    0 points
  37. Size 10 the ground floor is 145 sqm internal floor space and the garage is 36 sqm internal floor space
    0 points
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