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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/17/21 in all areas

  1. These are three pictures spread over the last 10 years, the last one with the flowers taken just last week. It’s about a third of my garden. I make it up as I go along but every year the wildlife increases exponentially and the area becomes more and more interesting.
    3 points
  2. Heat loss through frames is often greater than through the glass. Manufacturers who make triple-glazed windows probably care more about frames than those that only make double-glazed ones. Buy good frames.
    2 points
  3. Looking forward to discussions and knowledge exchange with you all. It seems like a very practical and helpful Hub. I am particularly interested in the conversion of steadings, but have a lot to learn. I have extensive knowledge and experience as designer and contractor, but in England, newbuild, commercial. However this project will be private, renovation, Scotland, so I have a lot to learn.
    1 point
  4. How strong...pretty damn strong! For example:
    1 point
  5. Digger ! looks as if It was cut with a laser from Star Wars Enjoy your well deserved cider
    1 point
  6. Time for a nice cold cider. Got a bit more to remove in both the trench and put to get down to final depth - perhaps I should have got a digger in!
    1 point
  7. As they will be embedded in masonry that will have a high moisture content, they need protection from corrosion otherwise they will corrode and eventually (decades) fail. Your engineer would have specified this requirement. No fire protection needed as they aren't exposed to a flame risk.
    1 point
  8. Yes I read the reviews so used ordinary kiln sand in the end at half the price, just posted it for reference....but some people rate the weed resistant stuff.
    1 point
  9. I use it for the moss on my roof. Take the packet of the copper sulphate and a watering can onto the roof and using a garden hose fill the watering can up and walk along my ridge pouring the mix onto the tiles and let it run down the roof. You just need to make sure it doesn't come into contact with any metal like guttering or roof windows etc. It keeps my roof pretty clean and lasts 2 years easy for a few mins work.
    1 point
  10. The pictures you’ve posted are of footings. The outer leaf will have face brickwork up to dpc.
    1 point
  11. Welcome from Argyll on the west coast of Scotland. I took on a rundown property 10 years ago and am still trying to dig myself out..... admittedly I look at it as a daily hobby rather than something that HAS to be done in a certain timeframe... well that’s what a started saying after the first 5 years in.....
    1 point
  12. Answer one thing at a time. Loosen all the screws and see if the valve will move without really pulling stupidly on it.
    1 point
  13. I have something completely different that is invaluable, I have an 8x4 bench on wheels, it sits in the middle of the biggest room I use it as a workstation for making up fiddly stuff and also for cutting sheet materials with the circular saw, just drop a sheet on top with a couple of bits of scrap wood underneath and I can just rip through with the saw.
    1 point
  14. Sorry. Too busy / lazy to scroll up. I’m trying to stop @pocster from going over the edge elsewhere. Appreciated.
    1 point
  15. But apart from all that, life’s good ?. What doesn’t kill you....etc. Chill, breathe, it’s just another day in paradise. Nowt will change it and stress is a killer. Yes, go for that if you know you have at least 10mm play in the plumbing? Don’t stress the pipework, it’ll just leak.
    1 point
  16. Yup. Can you get the plates on so they’re both friction fit against the internal o rings of the plate inserts? The plates should stay on by themselves.
    1 point
  17. I ordered this one https://www.shopclima.it/en/panasonic-paw-fc-d15-aquarea-compact-fan-coil-with-left-side-connection-1-5-kw.html It's clearly just a systemair unit: https://shop.systemair.com/en/scc202plg2/p402066 (haven't worked out exactly which model number) - they didn't even bother reprinting the MI with Panasonic branding, says Systemair all over it @Nickfromwales Dimensions (LxHxD mm) 570x220x430
    1 point
  18. Don’t think about it. Just do it. Damage limitation is paramount, so get the grout out first surrounding the tiles you need to remove, WITHOUT RUSHING AND DAMAGING THE KEEPERS, and grind some Union Jack relief cuts in the ones which are going. Work slowly, and methodically, and use dust sheets galore.
    1 point
  19. Not all the time. It depends on the council/Parish council relationship. I once sat on a Parish council planning committee and despite having a retired barister as chair and all our objections being in line with planning law, we were almost entirely ignored. It was a waste of time. However, with our current development, our application was recommended for approval by the planning officer, but the manager referred it to the council's planning committee because the application was considered contentious. The Parish council had objected, despite those objections being non-material. We only had one other objection, again all non-material. The committee approved our application and I suppose if it hadn't we could have appealed, but what a waste of time and money for everyone. But during the committee meeting several other developments were refused only on the basis of Parich council recommendations, with one councillor specifically saying that they had to listen to the local opinion as they know their area best!
    1 point
  20. I feel your pain, did the same once but got away with it as it was a bar shower?
    1 point
  21. +1 for pavingexpert site. Bounded edges. Geotextile. 150 mm sub base in two layers compacted "to refusal" with something big enough to settle it: https://www.speedyservices.com/18_0104-h-wacker-neuson-dpu2540h-400mm-reversible-plate-compactor-diesel-160kg Make sure the sub-base is level and create the falls in the sub base. Your sand layer (~40 mm loose raked/30 mm after one pass) will eventually compact "to refusal" with cars etc going over it. If it varies in thickness then your blocks will vary in height. Rake sand level and give it one pass with the compactor. Lay blocks. Run over these with the biggest thing that won't smash the blocks. One of these over a sheet of 6 mm OSB if you can't get a rubber mat: https://www.speedyservices.com/18_0112-h-altrad-belle-pclx320-streetworks-320mm-plate-compactor-petrol-65kg Then kiln dried sand in the gaps to lock the blocks in place with friction. Don't power wash it all out again. (that will let the blocks move) That won't then move.
    1 point
  22. Emailed roper Rhodes ; they have a special email address for these issues im_a_twat@roperrhodes.ffs
    1 point
  23. Yup. Looked at the pic close up ?. You’re a good 10-12mm shy of what would be the minimum ‘protrusion’ here Shirley.
    1 point
  24. Yup. Looks like you fitted the whole valve too far back. Those o rings grip the chrome cylinders which protrude from the valve, which makes the plate a friction fit usually.
    1 point
  25. Probably not if they are inside the blockwork. If they could be exposed to flame they normally have plasterboard, other fire rated board (like Superlux) or intumescent paint.
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. Up the sides and across the top of the plate, with a bit of clear CT1 and NOT across the bottom. The spindles should have thin rubber o rings on them.
    1 point
  28. If those steels are in the outside course of block work, they need to be either galvanised or bituminous painted.
    1 point
  29. Nice, I've always really liked oak trusses with those steel ties.
    1 point
  30. It's not quite the same, the oak and steel is structural, but above is rafters with 150mm of insulation
    1 point
  31. That's shocking. When the kids are screaming and crying, it means the parents are winning. And the little shits are learning.
    1 point
  32. I would say then that you are looking at the wrong manufacturers, my windows are have a 125mm wide frame, you won’t find any 2g windows with frames like that. We went 3g and at about 10% uplift on 2g, they are silent and just feel completely different from any other 2g windows I’ve owned.
    1 point
  33. .....then simply use a single part self leveling compound to get it flat, uniform and level, and you're sorted. Fully bonding all of the floor layers during construction will be of paramount importance, especially where the gym equipment will reside. That said, I would boost the flooring to 2 layers of 22mm OSB3 for the few quid extra expense. .....30mm insulated plasterboards so you lose the cold bridging of the rafters. Heat rises, so pay the most attention there. Use foil tape to seal the 100's to the rafters and same to seal the insulated roof structure to the top of the internal vertical walls, immediately prior to boarding the walls. Rubber roof membrane or GRP, but rubber is the quietest in the rain. Nicer for an office environment / phone calls etc IMO. Plenty good enough for this. Again, you could use a 30mm insulated PB on the internal, but if this is a gym and office you may be better off insulating externally with just 75mm, which should be plenty, and paying a plasterer to fully wet coat the interior so you can screw shelving / equipment to the internal walls without them caving in. Thermal blocks are shite for any kind of fixing, so keep that in mind if you have anything serious to fix to the walls. Roof, as above, walls good enough to not invest more IMHO. If nothing discernible being affixed internally, then 30mm insulated PB to the interior would further improve things.
    1 point
  34. Probably the same WM800 that I have had for over 30 years, very versatile and robust.
    1 point
  35. I would take down a 4 to 600 wide pillar of the g/f flank wall at least before building the g/f new walls so things can be tied in nicely. I don’t like the butt join at the bottom of the stairs, this will crack upstairs needs thought lots of cold bridging going on with the old and new gable walls
    1 point
  36. If it’s going to be worth £1m why are you even hesitating about building it?
    1 point
  37. Profit 15% = 150k SDLT, fees for sale, SE fees, warranty fees, finance fees, BC fees, architect, QS, interest, valuations legals £80k CIL 25k Utilities £30k Prelims £10k Construction and fitout £300k Contingency 5% £15k Total £610k Purchase £390k
    1 point
  38. Unfortunately, a long period of neglect means I have rampant Horsetail which will quite happily come through the sub base to my block paved drive (but prefers growing up the house footings). Stamp on new growth, spray it, repeat for 20 years.
    1 point
  39. We have our own bit of woodland and will likely mostly be burning fallen timber that would rot in a less environmentally friendly fashion otherwise.
    1 point
  40. Well 6 months on we finally got this working! I won't quite say commissioned yet, as we're still running the FTC6 in single zone for fan coil + ufh, but now the plumbing is all complete I can think about getting the control systems properly working. (I say plumbing is complete, there's still a broken flow sensor to replace) Progress has been so slow with our MCS installer I actually got my main contractors plumber to help me debug the fan coil yesterday. The issue was obvious, looking at that photo above the red things in the threaded connectors are bungs. Kinda important you remove those before hooking it up, else no water ain't flowing anywhere. Would have been nice if the MIs has mentioned that! Being in the loft, this is obviously the highest point in the system by quite some way, so bleeding the system has to happen here. It has manual air release vents but it'd be nice to have automatic ones (or a system fill point up there next to it) to allow single person system pressurisation. Anyway, bit of a faff but I think this is really going to pay off come summer. It's amazing how no one at all on our build has ever seen anything like it. Thanks RHI random restrictions. They're so common on the continent. Glad I read about it here. In a pinch a plinth heater would also have worked I think, but for cooling we'd have to DIY build a condensation tray and ensure it doesn't get into the electrics.
    1 point
  41. A couple of tanking videos. Same kit I used:
    1 point
  42. Makes sense. Go outside and play now. ?. Watch for cars, ok.
    0 points
  43. Took SWMBO’s brand new tv to site ( so I can sort Ariel ) . Screen smashed ? Not a good day today !!
    0 points
  44. This is why we keep a good few spares, don’t we......?
    0 points
  45. Every day is a school day mate. Tiles off, lick your wounds, put it right, stick tiles back on, go to pub. Short cuts always take 3 times longer. Just get it started now, you’ll be finished by tomorrow evening.
    0 points
  46. Better than a shot gone for dispatching the buggers.
    0 points
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