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Showing content with the highest reputation on 17/03/21 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I ended up adding a slight angle to my reveals. Really happy with how they've turned out!
  2. 2 points
    The different types of buildup will have a major effect on other aspects of the build, having 150mm plus of insulation on top of your rafters will make finished heights higher. So needs thinking about quickly.
  3. 1 point
    40 -70m of fencing is really easy to do yourself but there are some specialised tools that you need. do a bit of research on fencing - maybe try and track down a manual from the forestry commission or somewhere online. track down an agricultural fencing supply company to get the best price on materials. If this is a fence to last then go treated posts with a 20+ year guarantee or even better is creosoted posts i am happy to talk you through it if required. i would use sheep netting with high tensile bottom, middle and top wire with the addition of one or two more line wires at the top to give it plenty of hight. The skill is getting the corner posts (strainers) in REALLY well as they take a LOT of load from the line wire. track down a forestry or agricultural fencing contractor by asking at the fencing materials shop for recommendation and get a price on having the job done, I would avoid landscaping companies unless they can prove they can do this sort of work well. I would be happy to post you some of the more specialised equipment like wire tensioner and clip gun and fencing pliers if you decide to go solo. I have done a lot of this sort of fencing......
  4. 1 point
    I never really looked at this approach (not sure why). I have gone down the indivdually addressable DALI route where each fittings has it's own driver doing the dimming. For LED's I was going to use Loxone RGBW extensions for these, but given we are doing tunable white and Loxone support for this is bad, now looking at driving LED's with EldoLED constant voltage DALI DT8 drivers. Good to hear you've had good experience with EldoLED. Makes me even more sure about finding an LED-tape supplier that provides EldoLED drivers and not another brand or unbranded.
  5. 1 point
    The Loxone DALI extensions cost a lot though at £450 each!! Did you use these or do somethng else? I've just bought a Raspberry PI DALI hat, which can control up to 256 DALI addresses for £80. I'm trying to get it working, and expose HTTP calls for use in Loxone now.
  6. 1 point
    Yeah the few I've ended up using by happenstance are so much better than other fixtures. We even had some fairly fancy/expensive track system lights using 0-10V drivers that should be perfect fade, but nothing compared to what I can get out of them using fairly cheap D4C-L constant current drivers. The kitchen island lights are 4 units each 13W, 15V forward voltage. They currently have individual mains dimmable drivers wired in parallel on 1.5mm2 T&E. With some faff I could pull out the drivers from the ceiling and rewire them in series and use a remote driver (reappropriate the T&E for low voltage circuit). The combined 60V forward voltage would be tricky to drive, but I could do 3 of them (45V) on the T&E L+N pair and the remaining fixture on the L+E pair. This would fit very nicely on my existing 48V power supply. I'll add it to the list of projects to get to in 5 year's time, when absolutely everything else in the house is working and I run out of things to do!!
  7. 1 point
    Quite a few people on here have used Ecology.
  8. 1 point
    Is that a substation at the bottom of the garden of 27b..?? If so, it’s may be a non starter for an over sailing wire as a telco line cannot pass over power infrastructure in that way. They can’t pull the catenary safely.
  9. 1 point
    This is the damage reporting line - obviously there has been no damage 'yet' but may be a way to get in touch with them. Just explain that you'll be starting works on site 'soon' and you're worried your crane may damage it - I think you need to create a sense of urgency to get them to do anything (even quote) vs just making enquiries. To report Damage to the Openreach network please call the reporting team on 0800 023 2023 (Option 1 + Option 1) the team are available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. But I really don't think it will be super expensive and should not get in the way of your plot purchase.
  10. 1 point
    Yes @Bitpipe has it right, get them to swing the span to the other DP (distribution pole) 👍, but get on with it ASAP.
  11. 1 point
    This does not look very complicated, OR would run a new wire from the pole outside 16a and use their 'flying wire' exemption to negate a wayleave, but if going to the same side of 29 that the current wire is on, it would not impinge much at all on 27b. I think it's a case of continuing to pester OR to move it to that pole so your works (and you will be planning to use a crane, obviously) does not damage it. https://www.openreach.com/help-and-support/obtaining-wayleaves What are flying wires? These are wires which “fly” across one property from telegraph poles on another property. We’re sometimes allowed to install these without needing a wayleave, but only if: we don’t need to enter the property to do it the wires are 3 metres or more they don’t interfere with normal business at the property.
  12. 1 point
    Overall I'm very happy with Whitewing only thing to bear in mind is the power per channel is quite a bit lower. Only hit issues with this with the line of architectural downlights along the kitchen island. They don't blow a fuse, but powering them up causes all other lights on that dimmer to flicker momentarily. The nominal wattage of them is only 52W so well within spec, I suspect it's the generic drivers supplied with them have a high surge current. Definitely one we should have skipped mains dimming and just used remote constant current drivers on.
  13. 1 point
    A site plan sketch / google maps screenshot would help. We demolished and did not re-instate the drop wire to the new house from the pole across the lane, instead we laid duct on our side and, after discussion with OR, laid it at our expense across the lane to the pole. We pulled through our own cable (you can buy OR approved cable, not expensive) and they hooked it up either end when it came to connection time. I presume you could do something similar - if you present OR with laid cable then they should be happy to swap out the overhead line. You also have the option to 'mole' across roads and avoid the cost of closures. Maybe get a local ground worker to price this up and use that as a working figure?
  14. 1 point
    they will take forever, pester them like mad, only way to get them to respond IMO. But as @epsilonGreedy says, negotiate youre line at the same time (if you want one).
  15. 1 point
    @joe90 Good advice, thanks Joe!
  16. 1 point
    As far as I can remember “oversailing” does not require a wayleave, just warn openreach that it will be damaged if it’s not moved (yes don’t upset a “good” neighbour, you want him to stay that way).
  17. 1 point
    Should have got a job at Howdens ! 😂
  18. 1 point
    There was some discussion years ago about phthalates in vinyl flooring as they were possibly carcinogenic and as a result you can buy vinyl flooring that is phthalate free. I don't know if that is what you are referring to.
  19. 1 point
    I would be tempted to tell them you have machinery on site and it WILL be damaged unless they move it, might put a bomb under their ass!
  20. 1 point
    Well 3phase 100 amp is a 70 KvA supply.
  21. 1 point
    I went with green moisture resistant plasterboard in my ensuite and Aquapanel/Hardiebacker cement board (tiled) around the walk-in shower area and also laid the tray using the 'Nickfromwales' bomb proof method.
  22. 1 point
    Half a day on BuildHub to solve a foul problem. How much would you have paid an 'expert' to do the same eh? This place is addictive.
  23. 1 point
    My temporary kitchen going to be larger than the real kitchen at this rate !!
  24. 1 point
    If you have a pump station, do the run in 90mm black MDPE. Run it in the same trench as your other services. Convert to 110mm brown pipe to a new chamber and gravity pipe to the sewer / final chamber. If you have a high or variable water table, the pump station chamber needs encasing in concrete.
  25. 1 point
    In the calculation above layer 4, TF200, needs setting to zero. The 0.77 value for this is only valid when against an unventilated airspace. This increases U-value to 0.26.
  26. 1 point
    Has to be buried min 600mm. Depending on the tree type you may want to look at moling but in honesty I would be going down the west boundary and then going into the sewer directly or using the lateral drain. Have the sewage company been informed ..??
  27. 1 point
    @Dunny1234 A cold ventilated construction has been the method of construction for zinc roofing across Europe. Use 'penny gap' 25mm thick softwood boards as the deck supporting the zinc and you can't go far wrong. If there is condensation with in the roof build up the timber will be able to dry, the air will also protect the back (underside) of the zinc and allow a natural patination on the metal surface. If you build using plywood you MUST isolate the zinc from the plywood using a structured underlay as ISO-Mat Metal. It has always been forbidden to lay zinc directly onto Plywood. Warm roofs have become popular and IF installed correctly can offer some advantages. The Vapour Control Layer (VCL) must be specified in accordance with the level of humidity expected within the building and installed correctly to prevent moisture breaching into the roof construction - for the life of the building. DM Drawings if you need project specific advice or guidance?
  28. 1 point
    Just a thought but if you got a drainage contractor in with a mole (makes a hole say for a cable / duct) under a road then you could maybe make an argument this way? Avoids trenching the ground and cutting all the roots. In principle this may work. To start with aim to keep the mole deep in maybe low nutriant soil so you reduce the risk of damaging the primary roots. In practice.. I'll leave that up to your imagination. If you don't want to imagine then get in a pro Arboriculturist who may be able to look at the soil, refine the general guidance on the extent of a root protection zone and keep you on the right side of the regs. If you hit an obstruction using the mole then you can hand dig to clear it and.. while hand digging you make sure you don't cut the roots.
  29. 1 point
    it's a cul-de-sac so a dead end with no through traffic, how busy could it be?
  30. 1 point
    Rotten mortar on the chimney sucks in water when it rains, this then percolates downwards through the walls and tries to get out inside and outside
  31. 1 point
    If you say period property, are you now changing to plastic. For timber you want a carpenter, either of the above can stick some up can up and smear some silicone around.
  32. 1 point
    What material would you like to use for the replacement? Is your property subject to any special control or in a conservation area? Is there any fancy late Victorian or Edwardian detailing in the eaves?
  33. 1 point
    Nosy bastards no wonder he left!
  34. 1 point
    That's general taxation for you. I'm also funding the royal family, Trident, Boris' new 'Whitehouse style' press room (£2M, as yet unused), his COBRA 'Whitehouse style' situation room (£9M, unlikely he'll ever make an appearance) and his £1M plane paint job. Also Priti's £350k bullying payout to avoid a messy tribunal. Better get back to work.
  35. 1 point
    Reading Jeremy’s thoughts on his Tesla confirms it won’t be on my shopping list.
  36. 1 point
    You will need 3 tools to fit the Tata / Catnic, listed below. I also purchased a metal blade for a circular saw. Its straight forward to fit, nailing strip on one side and hit with a hammer and block of wood the other. I had 300 sqm to fit and 7 Velux to fit round which was a bit of a challenge. You might find the delivery charge is more than the product. 1 EAVES CLOSER CU094300 Tools 2 STUBAI PLIERS CU094200 Tools 3 FLANGE MATE CU094400 Tools
  37. 1 point
    Actually quite tempted in my will to leave my user id and password to one of my grand children to continue the legacy . Also means I don't have to finish the build in my lifetime!. I think @Onoff is using the same logic; start it and let some other mug finish it. I can just see it many generations from now , that post "Leaky walk on Glazing" - much better than a head stone to remember me by.
  38. 1 point
    For everyone who has been asking, I gave Jeremy a call yesterday. The good news is he has recovered from his injury and having to take rather unpleasant medication alongside that. On the Buildhub front, Jeremy was undertaking a lot of the day to day background admin work of the forum prior to his injury. Having been away from it, he has been less inclined to get back involved and has various other interests which occupy his time. His missing blog is simply down to the EU domain being shut down. Unfortunately, that's where his back up was hosted as well so what's here on Buildhub is it, unless he can dig out a hard back up copy (which he thinks he has). That's all there is. Hopefully he will return at some point in the future.
  39. 1 point
    I have had several pints with him and he is very, very sound. He took a 60 mile detour once just to drop off an unused tub of waterproofer at my build and would not take a penny for it, ditto some 16mm pex connectors that he posted out. Also the time he spent building and sharing SAP models, calcs, etc on this forum were significant. He often admitted that he found it difficult to read emotion into online conversations so sometimes came across as aloof, which was unintentional.
  40. 1 point
    I'm man enough I hope to admit I was at times less than generous towards Jeremy in private comments to other members. I like to feel I got over that. I think I took his drive, passion and tenacity as arrogance. Chuck in a bit of jealousy maybe at his breadth of knowledge. Less a case of him being "one of those people who's always right", bottom line he generally was! 😂 I miss him. Best Christmas pressie Buildhub could have is if he makes an appearance.
  41. 1 point
    What a difference a week makes in the world of self build – Half the roof has been slated, the additional insulation has arrived on site and the liquid screed has been poured. The guys who did the pour travelled from Perth, some 95 miles away – very few firms seem to do this work north of the Border it seems. The ground floor was prepared by the guy doing the UFH and our builder. The company doing the screed dispatched a surveyor the day before in order to measure the various heights and lay out what they called “spiders” but are in fact tripods. Each tripod was marked with a height and a spot so that if they were knocked over they could be re-positioned correctly. The pour was completed within an hour and should be ready for “light” traffic on Monday. Talking of which, we should see the Joiner, roofer and builder on site to start the internals, finish the back section of the roof and start building the external chimney respectively. Enjoy the weekend.
  42. 1 point
    It has been 3 weeks now since the last post and the TF arrived as planned. Sadly the tele handler didn’t!! It was two hours late and thankfully, didn’t impact on the delivery of the TF, although the driver was less than pleased being held up for so long. During the second week of erection, we saw the arrival of the large crane which really did pay for itself as it made light work of the roof timbers. A long day for all, but worthwhile. The final week saw the sarking and dormers being fixed and created respectively. A few little jobs remain but in essence the TF is up. The details – two joiners spent a total of 14 work days across 3 weeks – half a day being lost due to one of them nailing his finger rather than a rafter with his nail gun. Ouch!! The erection was arranged via the TF supplier, as was the large crane hire for the day. A total cost of £7600. This includes the sarking, soffits and barge boards. The crane hire alone was £500. Whilst all this was going on, the following was also being taken care of – A water connection from the mains across the other side of a single track road into a stop cock just inside the plot boundary. Our contractor carried out the road crossing whilst Scottish Water inspected the trench and established the connection. Cost of Scottish Water services - £976. Road crossing by independent contractor - £932. We took the opportunity to fit in the BT ducting at the same time as the BT pole is also across the road. The electric meter was fitted and power connected. This is being housed in the corner of the car port. Our electrician then came out and fixed up a temporary supply for the various trades to use. I have to say the Utility companies were fairly straightforward to deal with despite their somewhat strange working practices - SPenergy supply and fit the cable but not the meter. That is fitted by someone else. SPEnergy then have to come out and make the connection!! The stand alone car port /shed / log store was also completed. Just the door and window to the enclosed shed remain outstanding. This structure measures 7m x 6m deep – It has an oak frame and larch cladding. [Photos to follow] Finally, a word on the scaffolders. They have been called back to site on a number of occasions to move the structure or indeed amend the position and in fairness to them; they undertook these tasks without complaint. Yes, I will be pleased once they are off site but to be fair, when they have been asked to do a job and have done it. Coming up............the windows and doors will be fitted as will the ground floor insulation, ahead of the UFH pipes and screed going down.
  43. 1 point
    The ground works have moved on considerably, no doubt assisted by the fine weather we have experienced since mid April. The dwarf wall and base for the car port was always the priority as the frame itself arrives to site on Monday 14th May. The main house sub structure is almost complete – the ducting for the electricity cable and water pipes are in as are the drainage outlets. Over the next week or so the sub base will be completed. The TF is due to arrive Tuesday 29th May. You will see I have electricity going into the car port structure – this is where I will be housing the main electricity meter. Look close enough and you will see an additional piece of ducting. This will allow a return run back into the house. I have also allowed for water to be supplied to an outside tap in future. You may be able to pick out the orange temporary fencing. Installed to protect the tree as per a planning condition. However, more importantly, nesting in the long grass between the fencing and the tree is a pheasant. She is sitting on a nest of at least 10 eggs. I discovered this as I was strimming the long grass a week or so ago!! I have also attached an image of the trench in which we placed the water and electric ducting. One of the many reasons for joining this forum was to try and establish the likely costs for various elements of a self build. A s a complete novices it was important to us to try and establish such costs as we didn’t want to venture into something that was going to financially break us. So with this in mind, I am happy to disclose the cost of our ground works to the point displayed in the photos shown in this entry. Hopefully, others will appreciate it as I am keen to offer whatever information I can for the immense wealth of knowledge I have gleaned so far from this wonderful forum. Total cost so far for the ground works – Strip site and to do concrete foundations - £5500 To build to floor level - £4100 To prepare and concrete ground floor - £9000 [includes car port] Thanks for reading.
  44. 1 point
    A few days for the foundations to settle and then the deliveries arrive and the builders set to work again............ The images will show the footprint of the house and utility room together with the walling and dwarf wall on which will sit the oak framed car port.
  45. 1 point
    An update - photos speak for themselves........
  46. 1 point
    Yes, after years of dreaming, thinking, researching and waiting, work finally started on our first self build project. After a couple of false starts due to the builder having to finish a job that over ran and the arrival of the better weather, we eventually broke ground on Wednesday 18th April, two days later than anticipated. Annoying yes, but then what can you do? It’s only two days and it’s important to maintain a relationship with your builder. Nonetheless, we are now ready to do the foundations, which start W/C 23rd April. The sheer amount of top soil removed was somewhat overwhelming. The site had to be stripped down to what is called the sub soil – the firm clay stuff and therefore everything above it had to be removed. We had allocated a spot within the plot to store the topsoil but we soon realised that this space wasn’t going to be enough! Thankfully, the neighbouring farmer allowed us to deposit the remaining topsoil, in the field directly next to our plot. He will no doubt make use of it over the coming months but I have to say, if he hadn’t allowed us to do that, we would have had no choice but to hire in a fleet of tipper trucks with grabbers attached. Imagine the expense of that !! Anyway, the top soil removed and store within our plot we come in handy once the landscaping starts. I spent a couple of days as the Dumper truck driver and I have to say, I really enjoyed it. I didn’t have the nerve to give the digger a go – far to many levers and pedals!! The hired in toilet was christened within half an hour of the Digger driver arriving ! Thank goodness it gets serviced every week. SPEnergy and BT Openreach both dropped off their respective ducting for when the time comes. Interesting to note that SPEnergy would only allow us 50 metres of ducting as anymore would affect the type of cabling that would have to be installed. 50 metres should be more than sufficient for us but in any case the guy who dropped off the ducting, gave us 75 metres!! The structures, namely the timber frame for the house and the car port, will be erected during the middle of May and the back end of May. Again, another little set back really, albeit a week later than expected. The team of erectors will not have finished the job before ours in time so we had to take a slot, a week later. More photos will be posted as the work unfolds but for now here are a few of the work so far. Thanks for reading.
  47. 0 points
    Ah you found it. There is actually 3rd level of escalation to the logic. If the motion sensor detects a “super collossal movement” then sound the alarm siren to alert the neighbours too. I wanted to see if anyone actually looked at the detail 😎
  48. 0 points
    I have no knowledge of automated systems, so am following these threads with interest... One bit does confuse me... This image appears to turn up the extractor if someone has a “movement” whilst on the pan... but if they have a “colossal movement” I.e. a big sh*t??.. then all the light in the house flash to warn the occupants!
  49. 0 points
    Perhaps google "fluffer"?
  50. 0 points
    Welcome. ' Murdered-in ' , or simply murdered?
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