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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/23/21 in all areas

  1. Well hopefully you don't. I didn't notice this until the one day I turned the MVHR off due to a neighbour bonfire and saw the jump in stat temps. Anyway, now SOLVED ?. The thread correspondence showed me a single gang spacer. So brought some today. Attacked with 8mm router to make slots and now temperature variation is cured. Note when I took the head off, laid it adjacent whilst I fitted this up and then put back, it kicked off with a temperature offset of nearly 2 degs to what it had been reading in situ. So see pictures. I've done one as shown and another with slots adjacent to the wall. Both seem to work well. Temperature measured by top slot is 2 deg more than room temperature.
    3 points
  2. https://youtu.be/5u4hAxi5b6o
    2 points
  3. Toilet done ! I like the geberit thought that goes into the design ( apart from wobbly bolts )
    2 points
  4. Well we are on the way now and no going back. The groundworks guy started last week, he is putting in the road and hardstanding and will do the insulated foundation under my guidance and I will assist. It's a good relationship and he comes when its not raining and is well experienced in groundworks. He is actually building his own home just now too (we are similar ages). The night before he came on site...I was hurriedly arranging site insurance (horrific cost of over £2k - but it is for 24 months) that was sorted, then in the dark I went up and attached the cursory health and safety signs at the entrance. I also put a sign facing out into the surrounding fields (see pic below) as we have people who walk by and I haven't heras fenced the site hence if someone crosses the fence they should be aware there might be big holes in the ground. The digger came the next morning and we have nearly finished the access going in to the house, around 400 Tonne of 3" crusher run has got us up to the house location. Which is pretty damn close to what I calculated, we were put off my rain somewhat this week which suited us both as I was stowed with my normal job, I did have holidays booked but couldnt get off as I had too much on. However come Monday..I will be off for a week.... I 've been busy at night over thinking, over engineering and done far too much detailed planning around drainage and ducts. But I'm nearly ready. The Kore Insulated foundation system came in December....I can tell you how glad I was that i brought it in before Brexit. I'm hearing stories that it is completely problematic now. I was missing some EPS for a thermal break between man slab and integral garage but steven from Kore sorted it and should be here next week just in time. I'm spending my night tonight comparing prices of drainage which I'll bring on site on Tuesday. The groundworkers will be back Monday and we expect a big week full speed ahead, we will scrape the foundation out (the footprint top soil is removed) get it level, then fill with Type 1. Then surveyor here on Wednesday to set out profile boards with, I done all the ACAD drawings for him to place it all and do the ducts and drains and insulated foundation corners etc, He's also been really helpful and proactive. The final UFH design is done, I'll order the pipe on Wednesday too and they can get it next day, so that's fine. Next week is a big week and I'm excited...I've planned some bits to death, but in reality we will just see how it goes. Some pictures attached because that's what a blog is all about Jude was thoroughly enjoying the water and mud!....wish us luck! 20210115_154740.mp4
    1 point
  5. Tonight's episode I found inspiring. A young couple who have both been through their own medical problems, converting a barn on a small budget. Achieved by doing a lot of work themself, a true self build, with a fantastic result.
    1 point
  6. As I read today. "It's relatively easy in physics to measure something. The hard part is knowing how accurately you are measuring it" Just about sums this saga up. Will buy some more spacers and get on with retrofitting them to the other stats now. They're just 97p each from Screwfix if you buy 3 plus. Search for single gang spacer.
    1 point
  7. The proportions of your elevation is a bit all over the place, look at the examples in the photos and you can see that they are better set out and look different to your proposals...
    1 point
  8. oh no, we are watching ....
    1 point
  9. @Moggaman, Looks like you need render. See 3.2.2.1.2 of linked Irish Agrement Board cert https://h7y7d6g6.rocketcdn.me/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/KORE-Fill-NSAI-Certificate-202012.pdf
    1 point
  10. Your on a loser with the powers that be. Buildhub is a diverse community and he ticks a box! ? This is tame compared to some of his other threads. Stick with it. I found it a lot easier to learn a foreign language afterwards!
    1 point
  11. The lack of a sketch, with suitable info/ brief list of make ,model of equipment installed with sizes of radiators, room sizes, temperatures at various locations window sizes and a reluctance for any internet searches to provide info for personal learning in various subjects despite repeated posters asking for this to help him out, then referring things as udders, looong radiators- and other unhelpful descriptions shows a willingness not to want to help himself. I think this thread should be closed.
    1 point
  12. Mirroring what others have said, this is most likely entirely normal. It could just be down to a recent rapid drop in ambient temperature together will moist air within a new building. Keep an eye on it but you'll no doubt see it disappear soon.
    1 point
  13. Slates are quite well sealed and I believe even with a breather type membrane the roof void should be ventilated unless the membrane is certified (BBA or similar) to allow use unvented. construction moisture drying could be part of the problem.
    1 point
  14. West coast of Ireland + severe exposure + full fill insulation = probably not a good idea. Check MIs, Certification and additional requirements for protection of the wall from wind driven rain (render, tile hanging, rainscreen).
    1 point
  15. I very much doubt blown bead insulation could damage a block wall in the way described. Arent the beads already expanded before they are blown in? I guess it might be possible with foam that expands in place but I've never heard of that cracking blocks. I have had an issue with a stud wall and expanding foam blowing out plasterboard but that was my fault. I think the person you spoke to was confusing it with another issue.. Fully filled cavities can cause water to bridge the cavity causing damp inside. For that reason its not recommended in exposed lolocations. The problem is that bricks are porus. Would your location be considered exposed? Installers that fill cavities on old houses are meant to decline if they think this is a risk on houses they have been asked to quote on. I suspect many dont. My understanding is this is not an issue if your house is rendered. I have heard that the grey "platinium" coated bead system is also at less risk. Pick a good installer and perhaps check if the warranty covers this issue.
    1 point
  16. I would add supply air to dining room (2 supply 2 extract downstairs) Bed 1, supply air to bottom left corner (as far from door as possible) en-suite extract above WC Study supply air over to left, further from door. Loft bathroom extract anywhere but directly from shower cubicle.
    1 point
  17. I agree with Planning in some way as there does appear to be quite a lot of wall compared to windows/doors. Can anything be done there, which may comprise increasing the number of or sizes of the windows, therefore reducing the amount of wall and not majorly impacting the internal layout or flow? Given the above examples, I personally feel an Appeal Inspector would struggle to agree with the LPA and should therefore allow the Appeal. Maybe let the current application run its course and if refused, Appeal. At the same time, submit a revised application taking into the comments I made above and which should ‘hopefully’ provide you with a back up option should your desirable scheme be dismissed at Appeal.
    1 point
  18. @Jason L as above, I’d get one in the dining area. Also I’d get them further away from the doors, as you have done in the sitting room. When I did mine I found out somewhere that the supply and extract air valves should be at least 1500mm from any wall. I can’t remember for the life of me where I found that but it’s something I’ve tried to do where possible, unfortunately doing that upsets my OCD as the valves are not necessarily in an eye pleasing position in the ceilings or aligned with light fittings.
    1 point
  19. @Moggaman, multiple holes are drilled at the same time, IMHO any slight positive pressure used to inject the beads would escape through these and any significant pressure build up impossible. I have seen cases of fibre cavity fill accidently injected into timber frames and the plasterboard buckle as a result.
    1 point
  20. You may need >1 duct run (depending on duct size) so you will need some calcs. As above would have thought a supply into dining. In bathrooms right over an enclosed shower may not be ideal - will get a lot of moisture and may not be so effective for toilet smell extract? What are your plans re kitchen extract? If relying on MVHR you may want two extracts with one nearer the hob. I had a design from bcp and then tweaked various bits then passed on to engineer and architect to make sure all fits with wall penetrations, steels etc. Was worth £100 as they will also work out number of ducts to get the flow needed + can provide sizes of manifolds which I needed to allow for in ceiling heights so found quite helpful
    1 point
  21. Suggest you need a supply to the dining area for better distribution and balance the extracts
    1 point
  22. He builds & restores stuff like this. Thus despite being a pita he has some serious skills! ?
    1 point
  23. Because they got permission due to Class Q. The existing building must, in structural terms, already be “capable of functioning as a dwelling”. This means is that the building as it stands must be capable of conversion. If it requires such substantial building operations then what is proposed amounts to the construction of a new building. If that is the case then the conversion would fall outside the scope of Class Q
    1 point
  24. Yep it just works. I must admit it took me a while to get into their instructions for the WC frame/flush plate and then wall drain but once you do it all makes sense. Don't like that they mix mm and cm on the same drawing though.
    1 point
  25. With my DIY installed MVHR I used a red version of the blue stuff posted earlier. The internal bore is smooth and sooo much easier to instal compared to large diameter metal. Sweeping bends create much less resistance than 90’ bends. The air speed is so slow that noise is not an issue with mine. I created my own terminals, manifold/silencer and it all works great.
    1 point
  26. This my office this morning. Anything more than this is hot!
    1 point
  27. It is not pressure, it is flow rate. In a gravity system, flow rate is affected by the distance between the shower head and the loft tank (what gravity does). You may get away with larger bore pipes (probably easier to give it a go than calculate it). I have a very cheap shower pump that works well. Just make sure your cylinder and loft tank can cope with the flow, you don't want to drain the loft tank while using the showers. Pumps are a bit noisy though.
    1 point
  28. Could be Ytong Aircrete standards - 3.6N and they are very similar and the same dimensions.
    1 point
  29. Simplest and cheapest would be to just move it. The boiler should have a few years of life left in it. The only issue for me would be whether you are happy with water pressure for showers.
    1 point
  30. Looks like a plastic tank. Just move it if all the holes are still in the right place. If you use a vented system (looks like that is what you have), then there is no mucking about with certificates and annual checks of a G3 unvented system.
    1 point
  31. Durox, longer than normal blocks possibly Durox Suoerblock - basically aerated concrete blocks
    1 point
  32. I'm with you here, Joe. Didnt really like the design (very bling though, which is I guess what they were going for) and the interior didnt seem to use all that space in any clever/interesting ways. All talk and no trousers imo.
    1 point
  33. A couple of years on we haven’t had any complaints
    1 point
  34. Good luck @SuperJohnG Looking forward to seeing your build develop.
    1 point
  35. Get them to design it, they may learn something.
    1 point
  36. I would think about plywood on a couple of sides of the frame, for extra rigidity.
    1 point
  37. You could if you want fix 2x2’ with the fixings you have and then fix the 4x2 to this. To save getting extra fixings?
    1 point
  38. I’m gonna keep reposting this daily now, so it keeps on top of the pile of rants and arguments. We all need this to move forward! The entirety of buildhub needs this resolved so we call move on with our lives!
    1 point
  39. Has a sacrifice to appease the Heating Gods been explored yet? Maybe next thing to look at after bleeding the rads.
    1 point
  40. I will be very interested to hear how this works. Apart from the cladding, it looks to me like the heat pump unit is mounted too close to the wall to start with.
    1 point
  41. Ok - I bow to your expert opinion and deprecate my own, I apologise but stand by my point that this is surveyor and installer error. That’s bollocks. The surveyor and installer have installed a system not fit for purpose if the rads are incorrectly sized. So now you admit you knew they were wrong and there is a compromise - pointless me and @MJNewton continuing here as the kitchen and bathroom will never be hot if the rads are wrong. (Ergo, this is a system not fit for purpose to quote @joe90) We disagree on cause because you do not understand heating systems, and I and others do. And you’re not prepared to accept this, which I refer to my first point. Vaillant kit may make a noise they are trying to fix, but to give you a little analogy, with their kit and the undersized rads you are trying to break the land speed record in a fart powered go-cart. It doesn’t matter how much heat the system kicks out, if the rads are undersized then they will never heat the rooms. The reason it’s coming on overnight is because to heat the house with the rads that are too small, it needs to run for longer. That is basic laws of physics and thermodynamics which I am very sure you will also disagree with. The big issue - as usual - is we have been trying to fix a problem with half the information. And now it comes to light that kitchen and bathroom are not correctly sized, and you knew this from the installation ..??!! Would have been helpful to know, as I’m sure we could have just focused on getting your one bedroom rad to the correct heat because the rest is utterly pointless. I wish you luck fixing the unfixable. @MJNewton if you carry on with this I’ll speak to the palace and see if I can get that knighthood conferred to a Peerage...
    1 point
  42. Friend of a friend runs a solar install company. I went to him with the best price I could find which was solar-energy-store.co.uk and he was able to knock a chunk off.
    1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. Tbh you could likely ditch the studs once the CT1 has set!
    1 point
  45. Hi Guys, Update to my comparison of different methods. I have now looked at the performance of a more typical Part-L compliant masonry cavity wall as a baseline comparison, a full fill masonry cavity wall to the same 0.15 max U-value I was targeting for the other systems, and a solid masonry wall (using hollow concrete blocks) with external insulation, which to me seems the best way to do a cheap but high performance masonry wall (though it is the thickest wall so far). I've also looked at the embodied carbon of the twin-wall timber frame with cellulose insulation (its the lowest so far), and the 'perfect wall' timber frame with external GPS insulation. I did manage to find the embodied carbon of the fire retardant, the acrylic render and also low-carbon basalt reinforcement as an alternative to steel. I still have to look at the embodied carbon of all the masonry systems, and I haven't looked at a woodcrete ICF system yet for either performance or embodied carbon, so there are still gaps. I also want to separate out the embodied carbon and sequestered carbon in the timber, so that both are shown in the table, rather than just the net negative figure. I'm interested in how the embodied carbon of the masonry options compare. Energy use wise, there really isn't that much in it - even the 'standard' notional Part L compliant system isn't that bad (but it does have the same SIPS roof, high performance windows and a heat pump like all the others - its just the walls that have changed) though I imagine real world performance will be worse because of the difficulty of achieving the targeted performance with traditional masonry cavity wall construction. I've been doing Passive House 'bite size' training over the last couple of weeks (4 x half days) and seen a lot of photos of shoddy masonry walls with big gaps between insulation boards etc. I've also been told a lot about the difficulties of getting a timber frame airtight with an internal membrane due to internal junctions, which makes me think it will be easier to get good airtightness from the 'perfect wall' set up because its an external wrap with far fewer penetrations. Typical Masonry Notional Part-L (GPS Insulation) Masony Cavity Full FIlled (Rockwool Insulation) Masonry External Insulation (GPS Insulation) Wall performance (worse air infiltration assumed) Wall thickness 439 mm 463 mm 490 mm Un-usable wall thickness 439 mm 463 mm 490 mm U-value 0.2 W/m2K 0.15 W/m2K 0.15 W/m2K U-value (nominal, not including bridging) 0.18 W/m2K Phase shift 11 hours 18 hours 13 hours Thermal capacity inside 218 kJ/m2K 256 kJ/m2K 299 kJ/m2K Simulation energy in use Annual energy used for heating - current climate 534 kWh 252 kWh 244 kWh Annual energy used for cooling - current climate 113 kWh 70 kWh 60 kWh Energy load for heating - winter design day 3.4 kW 2.5 kW 2.5 kW Overheating hours (assuming no cooling) - current climate 123 hours 96 hours 82 hours Annual energy used for heating - 2080 forecast climate 173 kWh 162 kWh 157 kWh Annual energy used for cooling - 2080 forecast climate 2337 kWh 1798 kWh 1677 kWh Hot summer day cooling energy - 2080 forecast climate 21.1 kWh 15.85 kWh 14.8 kWh PV array spec to deal with 2080 cooling 6 kWp 4 kWp 4 kWp Carbon produced with grid electricity for heating/cooling 2020 151.4 kgCO2e 75.3 kgCO2e 71.1 kgCO2e Carbon produced with grid electricity for heating/cooling 2080 251 kgCO2e 196 kgCO2e 183.4 kgCO2e Carbon produced over 60 year period 10815.9 kgCO2e 7656.4 kgCO2e 7175.9 kgCO2e ICF ICF + Timber floors SIPS TF: Twin wall + Cellulose TF: Perfect wall + GPS Wall performance Wall thickness 373 mm 275 mm 395 mm 416 mm Un-usable wall thickness 373 mm 275 mm 395 mm 268 mm U-value 0.15 W/m2K 0.15 W/m2K 0.14 W/m2K 0.14 W/m2K U-value (nominal, not including bridging) Phase shift non relevant 9.5 hours 14 hours 6.3 hours Thermal capacity inside 328 kJ/m2K 28 kJ/m2K 36 kJ/m2K 35 kJ/m2K Simulation energy in use Annual energy used for heating - current climate 320 kWh 261 kWh 350 kWh 315 kWh 350 kWh Annual energy used for cooling - current climate 12 kWh 52.9 kWh 148 kWh 117 kWh 145 kWh Energy load for heating - winter design day 2.8 kW 2.76 kW 2.65 kW 2.4 kW 2.6 kW Overheating hours (assuming no cooling) - current climate 58 hours 74.5 hours 144 hours 139.5 hours 142.5 hours Annual energy used for heating - 2080 forecast climate 183 kWh 176 kWh 175 kWh 159 kWh 169 kWh Annual energy used for cooling - 2080 forecast climate 1629 kWh 1713 kWh 2440 kWh 2142 kWh 2405 kWh Hot summer day cooling energy - 2080 forecast climate 14.6 kWh 15.3 kWh 21.6 kWh 19.7 kWh 21.3 kWh PV array spec to deal with 2080 cooling 4 kWp 4 kWp 6 kWp 5 kWp 6 kWp Carbon produced with grid electricity for heating/cooling 2020 77.7 kgCO2e 116.5 kgCO2e 101.1 kgCO2e 115.8 kgCO2e Carbon produced with grid electricity for heating/cooling 2080 184.1 kgCO2e 261.5 kgCO2e 230.1 kgCO2e 257.4 kgCO2e Carbon produced over 60 year period 7318 kgCO2e 10509.7 kgCO2e 9221.1 kgCO2e 10365.7 kgCO2e Embodied ICF SIPS Twin wall Perfect wall + GPS Concrete (using Cemfree) 4251.5 kgCO2e 575.9 kgCO2e 575.9 kgCO2e 575.9 kgCO2e Basalt reinforcement 498 kgCO2e 54.1 kgCO2e 54.1 kgCO2e 54.1 kgCO2e EPS insulation 5308 kgCO2e 759.5 kgCO2e 759.5 kgCO2e 5370.8 kgCO2e Growing medium 60 kgCO2e 60 kgCO2e 60 kgCO2e 60 kgCO2e EPDM 489.5 kgCO2e 489.5 kgCO2e 489.5 kgCO2e 489.5 kgCO2e Bituminous Membrane 8.6 kgCO2e PIR/PUR Insulation (Internal board) 426.9 kgCO2e 1904.5 kgCO2e 426.9 kgCO2e 426.9 kgCO2e PIR/PUR Insulation (SIPS Core) 1912.6 kgCO2e 8532.3 kgCO2e 1912.6 kgCO2e 1912.6 kgCO2e Mineral wool insulation 128.4 kgCO2e 128.4 kgCO2e 128.4 kgCO2e Resilient layer floor insulation 73.4 kgCO2e 73.4 kgCO2e 73.4 kgCO2e Cellulose insulation 910 kgCO2e kgCO2e Screedboard floor 1003.2 kgCO2e 1003.2 kgCO2e 1003.2 kgCO2e Fire retardant 66.4 kgCO2e 258.9 kgCO2e 258.9 kgCO2e 258.9 kgCO2e Acrylic render 1837.9 kgCO2e 1837.9 kgCO2e Airtight coating in Twinwall - unknown at this point Total embodied 14850.8 kgCO2e 13839.7 kgCO2e 6652.4 kgCO2e 12200.2 kgCO2e Plywood -1804.9 kgCO2e OSB -1748.2 kgCO2e -10947.4 kgCO2e -6980.9 kgCO2e -7720.4 kgCO2e Timber planks (external walls) -2941.4 kgCO2e Timber stud (external walls) -3004 kgCO2e -1351.6 kgCO2e Timber studs (internal walls) -650.5 kgCO2e -2063.9 kgCO2e -2063.9 kgCO2e -2063.9 kgCO2e Timber battens (service void) -8 kgCO2e -424.9 kgCO2e -79.7 kgCO2e -79.7 kgCO2e Timber battens (rainscreen) -469.7 kgCO2e -469.7 kgCO2e Timber floor I-joists -507.6 kgCO2e -507.6 kgCO2e -507.6 kgCO2e Timber siding -1703.8 kgCO2e -1703.8 kgCO2e Total sequestered -4211.6 kgCO2e -16117.3 kgCO2e -14809.6 kgCO2e -14664.6 kgCO2e Net embodied 10639.2 kgCO2e -2277.6 kgCO2e -8157.2 kgCO2e -2464.4 kgCO2e
    1 point
  46. £10k..?? 140 7.3N blocks come in around £30/m laid so you should be closer to the £6k, and that would be offset by a slimmer concrete wall so it should be cost neutral. Have you considered ICF for below ground ..??
    1 point
  47. I fitted one in a rental I have We where getting a bit of colour from the ensuite The guy at the plumbers merchants asked if I was having problems with rats Sitting on the loo has never been the same since
    1 point
  48. What’s a dogger ?‍♂️
    0 points
  49. haha I love this thread! It’s one continuous car crash!
    0 points
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