Leaderboard

I would stick them. "Stick likes sh*t" would be my choice. You will need to hold them in place while it sets, tape will probably be all you need. ALL my skirtings and architrave are fixed like this, no nail holes.

Honestly don't be sad. Insulate well, control heat losses through ventilation. Reduce heat demand and it becomes much less critical what the source is. For a rental flat using something with minimum capital outlay and easy for any random tenant to understand and operate is of great value. Heating technology is always advancing and much easier to change a boiler at some point in future than improve critical errors in the design/build of the fabric

It means that the door or drawer etc fits into the opening not against it.

Yeah the 302 seem quite terrible reliability and they dim the neutral rather than live which causes a lot of disgruntlement on that forum too. For better or worse I'm using s1-dr. These seem a bit better, although the 1W vampire load per unit is not very nice and they have soldered on 5amp protection fuse so if you manage to make a snafu wiring it up there's a puff of smoke and the soldering iron has to come out to replace the fuse - not so cute. If doing it again I'd probably have kept with plan A of using DALI everywhere, but used the Loxone DALI extension rather than mess around with KNX-DALI bridge. Which would have kept the cabinet much simpler too. I gave up on that because I didn't want to use expensive "specification grade" DALI fixtures, but in the end I got a lighting designer's help and she spent a lot of my money on nice fixtures from Phos and Lucent Lighting that would only have been a fraction more to drive from DALI anyway. Live and learn ... So now I know for next time.... I'm using 1 CAT6A per 2-3 switches. This allows a fairly free mix of Tree and retractive switch per cable run.

That's something I had considered doing but I'm pleased to say that I stopped myself, I'll keep an eye out for the Tesla though as that's a little less "stalky". Mind you, if I spot it/him, I won't be flagging him down to interrogate him! It would appear that he actively removed himself from this forum for reasons best known to himself but as @Russell griffiths said "somebody must have peed him off". Did his disappearance coincide with the Buildhub blackout in the middle of this year? It is a massive shame because he was an absolute inspiration.

La90 Delux

The one thing you may get pulled up on is the lack of clamps supporting the flue, effectively all the weight of the bends , pipe, terminal piece are sitting on the flue on the boiler.. Pipe clamps with threaded rod are normally used to either hang of timber work or masonry.

Or just small dabs of adhesive every now and again.

Mark around them all and number each of them, thin drill screw and plugs. If you ever want them off again, less mess and just fill holes. Regards. James

That's it, lower my thread to the level of yours! ?

hahahah - thanks Nick; tested it out yesterday following Tony's post -(daisy chained - as the lights hat fittings for that) and worked great. Still alive ? Electrician will finalise it though.

awesome. glad it's all going well. are you using Tree cable then? and are you using the Loxone switches? just confused by the statement about the increase of quantity of Cat6. sorry if you've mentioned all this before, if you did I've probably read it and just forgot! sounds like you're going to have a fun Christmas this year. good luck with it all.

Ooh yes! Must remember both sides of the story

No you aren't, and no i dont think so: cool top of rads but warm btms = bleeding needed.

Are we still critiquing this cabinet? My only criticism is that of the colours of the rainbow, Violet is missing. Which means that some poor child is in the future going to be tricked into believing that Richard Of York Gave Battle In Hotpants. And repeat it at school.

I am not saying they take it for free. But it is not good enough to say "we want to build more houses here so here is your 10% and f. off". When we were looking we had a choice between buying a significantly larger updated house with a tiny garden and a tired relatively small bungalow on a large plot. We chose land over house and never regretted this choice thanks to the degree of privacy we've gained. I discussed our extension plans with friendly estate agents and they said there was a limit on the uplift we could achieve (well, obviously). I always maintained that I don't care whether our plans would be profitable because we want to live here for a very long time. I didn't take CPOs into account though, it has a potential to ruin any plans. A law can be unjust.

Welcome Magnet, I am still a newbie here but I have already received much good advice (and I am also in the North East).

Nah, only 1900 or so posts in 14 months, can't possibly be Jeremy ?

I think you need to find something else to worry about 10-15mm out of plumb would hardly show up on the chippies level if you can still see the bubble it’s fine.

Except that it is clear amongst other things that RBK would never have allowed *us* to build three houses on our land to sell, but will give itself permission to do so. Thus my complaint about its vast conflct of interest. Rgds Damon

Entirely my concern @oldkettle I am absolutely not after any windfall, nor stopping redevelopment out of NIMBY bloody-mindedness, since there does seem to be a continuing demand for housing. Rgds Damon

This is pretty shocking to me. So the council can at any point decide to take somebody's property and then share the proceeds with developers. Nothing wrong with this at all apparently. I am really worried about it as our little oasis of 5 houses has "unusually large gardens" and is constantly attracting attention. 10% uplift is nothing if you can't move into comparable area with a comparable house and land.

Base coat 5 mil Then fibre mesh Leave it for a day Then your up and running

Popped over this morning. Cut an access hole and put the phone up there. Good news in that the flue looks at least in excellent order. Not so impressed the roofing felt has been cut and left like that! I've measured up for a hatch. Not so good there's a joist in the way. 1st bend: Second bend then up out the roof: I've taken a video but left it recording so need to edit out the tenant & I talking before posting. I cut a pit of pb before I went over and screwed a batten on. put that in and foil taped over for now. Will return to fit a hatch.

My advice was indeed that: "The general rule for compensation in CPOs is that in valuing the land acquired, any effect on value of the scheme behind the acquisition has to be disregarded on the valuation date. This is known was the Pointe Gourde Principal and dates back to 1947." However: "The Localism Act 2011 discusses a 'hope value' to the land ... s323 LA 2011 inserted a new s14 into the Land Compensation Act 1961 and holds that if it could reasonably be expected that permission would be granted, then the valuation of the land proceeds not on the basis of hope, but on the basis of certainty. ... [From Porter v Secretary of State] .... Any uplift in value could therefore arguably be included in CPO compensation." So I think I may mention this to get it in the public record even if not itself "material". I do have several material points from above that I will use. Rgds Damon

It’s gone mate, Jeremy has joined a traveling circus. Blog has gone. Somebody must have peed him off.

Isn't textbook like within 15mm from plumb? I set my first by eye, temp brace off scaff, chuck all my others in at 600, nail longitudinal braces, go back to the first and set bang on for plumb, then 're nail temp brace and fit all diagonal bracing.

I got complements from the brickie so I clearly did an alright job of it. The chippie hasn't turned his nose up at it so that's good too.

I can certainly squirt something in from the back. 110mm pipe in a bang on 114mm hole. Pipe sat on the bottom of the hole so 4mm at the top and less as you go round. It's just something to cover the "ooze" room side. It was insulated in there with old, fluffy roll stuff. It's in good nick and some can go back in. Just ordered one of those collars @PeterStarck linked. Tbh you said about them before when I had that soil pipe problem at the rental. Going over there now actually to see about this inspection hatch for BG.

yes as i will be using again, they were very helpfull. Quality gear not cheap Chinese crap.

Nice to re-visit this topic. In the end I bit the bullet and paid the £24k + other costs to get connected. In 2017 I just felt the Lithium batteries technology and price point was not in my favour. Now, end of 2020, I think it would be much more viable to go off grid - though I've not kept abreast of the offgrid technology - as the Lithium battery price has dropped. Having paid out such a huge amount to connect I won't be going off grid though - I need to use a lot of electric to justify the connection! Oh and when we had the house valued 2018 the surveyor thought not having an electric connection would knock £26k of the value, irrespective of any investment in batteries, as very few people would want a non-mains house

Use a 3 core cable the same size as the rest of the lighting in the property. take 1 cable from the isolation switch position, if this was the uk you would use a fused switched spur to allow you to switch and fuse it down to the first light, and then from the first light to the second light and so on.

Yes, outward opening doors are more secure, hence the reason why inward opening doors are preferred by the fire service, easier to get in.

If it’s not broke and does not smell I would leave it alone. Spend money on the house and access. If your really interested then put some food grade dye through the system and see where it comes out or not as the case may be. I have three old cottages on a remote bit of Scotland and do all my own building and maintenance and have to go by “if it’s not broke don’t fix it” as my list of important jobs is so huge I can’t afford to get distracted.......

Wow I never thought of that; I've been toying with the idea of one of those ammeters where you stick the wire through a coil but a switch sounds a much simpler and more accurate idea. I'll look into it thanks. Also, @SteamyTea and couple of other people expressed an interest in the logger, so I made a web page for it.. http://whatsnormal.org/sunamp-logger/sunamp-logger.html

+1 to @Conor's post We had to switch from a residential mortgage to a self build mortgage, then demolish our bungalow, then start building. Ecology locked us in for 2 years. That has elapsed but we are still paying their stupidly high self build rate due to not getting sign off yet (and that is another story). Ecology wouldn't accept our estimate of build costs. We had to pay an official estimator to estimate it all (cost about £200). Turned out he was only £10K different to my estimates but his came on an official looking bit of paper rather than a spreadsheet ? Otherwise, Ecology have been great. Easy to draw down the cash needed. We are interest only. I did have to demonstrate sufficient savings at the point of approval. Time your switch carefully and make it as near as you can to your demolition. You don't want to pay those higher rates for longer than necessary.

As additional information Ecology confirmed that they would accept equity in another property to qualify for interest only.

An interim update: I spoke to our existing lender - we have opted to stay with our flexible product. Thank heavens we didn't commit to the transfer - that was close. They do not offer self-build mortgages at present, he said that could all change in the future, hopefully it can be a product transfer by the time we are ready. I called Ecology for information. The representative advised to borrow a buffer amount from our existing lender now as it will be cheaper, but if we do that now and start repaying, surely it isn't that beneficial especially as we will have to transfer the slightly reduced principle amount to a self-build mortgage when we start our project anyway. For any newbies reading this post the Ecology rep also advised that the new build would need to energy efficient with a SAP rating of 85+ which our architect would be able to advise on. They would also need the standard evidence of income, value of the plot and projected final value of the build. Arrangement takes 4-5 weeks including survey & the early repayment charge will apply before 2 years. No word from our Financial Advisor.. All of our efforts will go into saving now, the holiday cancellations / refunds from this year will help. Thank you all.

Single-room MHRV such as I have in two rooms? Rgds Damon

Cut it off.

Hammer and chisel, lots of damage. No more damage than 50 holes, if you screwed them on.

Nah, only 1900 or so posts in 14 months, can't possibly be Jeremy ? Yes, must be an imposter.

A jammed PRV did for Three Mile Island ?.

I wondered what people's expectations were for truss verticality. The chippie has got the trusses roughly set and is fine tuning as he fits the trimmers. Being as I am, I can't help but get a level on it. I wanted to check my expectations though. My feeling is as long as the bubble is just touching or inside the lines it is OK. Trusses are made of wood that can be slightly twisted and warped so better than that feels unrealistic to me. You want to be using a 1800mm level for this. If you like numbers: My level is +/-0.5mm/m accuracy which I think means it is +/-2mm between the lines (https://www.leveldevelopments.com/2020/10/sensitivity-accuracy-of-spirit-level-vials/). 2mm/m (0.1degrees) would give a horizontal deviation of 6mm and a vertical deviation of 0.0mm on a 3m truss. To reach 1mm of vertical deviation the horizontal deviation needs to reach 77mm, or ~25mm/m (1.5 degrees). I expect a roof would actually be fine if the trusses were off by 1.5 degrees or more because the trusses are all braced so it's not so much about the trusses toppling. The profile of the roof isn't substantially affected even at 1.5 degrees. The exceptions to these are at hips, valleys and gables as such deviaton would move the positions of these elements that would then affect the profile of the roof. You'd be asking more out of the battens though with 1.5 degree error as the nominal 600mm could become 600+77+77=754mm so about 25% over what it should be.

I'm not worried about it, that's what worried me ?

Have you read this thread and how hard it is to get simple suggestions done.

I suspect that you took notice of science lessons at school, rather than think "they are of no use to me".

And for the generator to have a wet cooling system, so that it could be connected to a 2-3000L buffer tank to store ‘waste’ heat from the generator and use it for DHW uplift / space heating direct feed for preheat etc. Off grid means waste nothing.

Turn it round so the dent faces the wall.