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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/09/20 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    No No (Apart from during the build. I covered all wall tops during inclement weather) see..... yes it does it’s vapour permeable.
  2. 1 point
    https://www.billbutterswindows.co.uk/images/downloads/Members_Glazing_Manual_March_2015.pdf GGF Glazing Manual - 1.1.3 In case you / anyone is interested.
  3. 1 point
    I'm a roofer and this work is poor, the new ridge isn't any good. It needs to be tight. The mortar should all be cleared off of the ridge and the price is all dependent on size, time and how easy the access is etc
  4. 1 point
    Stays on and also protects the glass edges too
  5. 1 point
    before you laminate, make a slightly larger hole for hanging than you need, so the laminate seals on itself. Otherwise water will get to the paper through a hole you make afterwards
  6. 1 point
    (I know, I know...the photos didn't paste in and I will have to do them one at a time...I'll get 'round to it I promise...managed the first dozen, more to come) Part One-Wind And Watertight For Under £6k I'm new to blogging and probably have nothing much in terms of knowledge to impart but some of you might be interested in building on a low budget so here goes. After many years on the waiting list we got offered a plot on the famous West Highland Way about 3 miles north of the starting point in Milngavie, just north of Glasgow. For £4k we get a 20 year ground lease around 100ft square, ground rent is £90 per month and of course membership of the community group that collectively owns the whole estate. See more about Carbeth Hutters here http://www.carbethhu...o.uk/index.html we needed planning permission and Carbeth is itself a conservation area so we kept to the hutters spirit of ingenuity and self-everything and splashed out on some graph paper from the local stationers. We made several models from foam board (thanks JS Harris) and finally paid the fee and waited... I'll add the plans when I find them but permission was granted and we stated work digging the footings by hand. Oh I should say at this point so far we have not paid for one trades person nor used any machines other than a Makita saw and drill and a Hitachi gas nail gun. Many thanks to Dominic Stevens and this website for teaching me all I needed to know about the mysteries of marking out http://www.irishvernacular.com/ In May we braved the rain and pressed on building 14 (dodgy bricklaying) piers one big one using cobble stones the rest using concrete blocks from a reclaimed mono bloc driveway. Our near £2500 load of timber arrived and it was time to see if the 'water in a tube' method of levelling the piers was accurate or not...first big confidence builder-it was bang on level across a 4m span I really wish I had bought OSB flooring as the chipboard got soaked a dozen times...its fine now but we have a few swollen joints that will need attention before final floor goes down. Lots of wet days and rain dripping of noses but a nail gun is a great stress buster for us Social Work types and the wall panels and trusses were complete...time for a big hut raising weekend! The June weather was kind and we got a lot of work done but the tarps had to go back on as the floor was still getting soaked... Magic, frame complete Roof is almost there and again we had 8 volunteers over the weekend...including schoolboy nephews who kept wandering off with tools! Then end of June saw the EPDM roof being stuck on with the stickiest of glues but close to water proof at last. On the odd evening we managed to get the windows in... Got some nice doors from Gumtree for £40 so in they go and by the end of June we are almost there Insulation and building paper on Oh and Gumtree found us some kitchen bargains so shipped then up as its nice and dry inside now *smiley face* Cladding And Lighting Weather was sh#t all July so had to bash on through the rain... Sparrow Fart recommended the Hitachi nail gun and as I'm on my fourth box that's 7000 nails so far! 90% Finished...90% To Go... Nearly there...hearth and fire needed to go in as it was getting too cold to work... Got a reclaimed dance floor 57m for £250 so that went down too. Finished off the ceiling joins with some 5mm ply, looks okay. Finally got the dry toilet finished but not *commissioned* it yet. Put some furnishings in for a trial run. Just some plumbing, wiring and joinery to go. Oh and the view from daughters window... Diy Plans-Graph Paper And Pencil I am putting these images up simply to show that you do not have to employ professional help to submit planning applications. For most of you serious self builders designing the house of your dreams I suspect that this will be the only way to go but my little project is different from the norm in many ways. Firstly Stirling Council (in fact the single planning assistant that deals with the Carbeth community huts) is hugely helpful and happy to talk on the phone and comment via email. Secondly reading through previous applications I noticed that some drawn on foolscap (with imperial measurements) passed first time and the more professional architect drawn submissions had lengthy correspondence in the file. I went with the spirit of the old hutters and splashed out on some graph paper and a sharp pencil. I kept what I could vague so as to allow a bit of flexibility as the build progressed. Eight weeks to the day after submission we got a green light with four simple conditions. Having read some of your experiences out there I feel your pain and hope that ion the future this minefield of a system can be improved and made more consistent…I’m not holding my breath though… Attached Files Planning drawings 1-2.pdf (2.12MB) downloads: 75 Planning drawings 3-4.pdf (2.14MB) downloads: 29 Planning drawing 5.pdf (1.05MB) downloads: 26 Carbeth site plan hut no 3 Jan 15.pdf (254.28K) downloads: 28 Interior Fit Out And Decoration The low tech approach continues as does the re-use and recycle theme. Bought a load of Michelin road maps from the charity shop to make my feature wall background and topped then off with a few nice ones I picked up in Poland during the summer. Probably spent about 20 quid in all. Went to the local mental health wood recycling project (boy, they are not cheap!) and spend 15 quid on an old scaffolding board to make this kitchen unit. Might add some hooks underneath and a couple of shelves on the map wall to complete this corner. I might have mentioned before that around my office Monday is the day that the Council bin lorries come around for bulk uplift. The area is all tenement flats and there is no room for bulk trash in the back court so the local arrangement is you put it on a street corner before each Monday morning. It does make for an Aladdin's cave of goodies and there is a fair bit of 'help yourself' going on before the bin lorry arrives. in fact plenty of stuff is labelled, like a TV with remote control taped and a sign 'saying perfect working order'. Anyhow I helped myself to this worktop and slotted it in next to the beech free standing units from Gumtree to make a little sink unit. Looks okay I think...the rest of the worktop was cut up and kept the wood burner going to keep us warm during the freezing weather outside. Dry Toilet And No Smell Whatsoever Apologies for the pic of the loo, warts and all so to speak... This is the 'seperate' plastic toilet from Sweden that has a front funnel and back void. The thinking is to seperate the solid and liquid waste as it is the combination Of both together that causes the smells we don't like. Urine runs to a soak away and the solids and toilet paper (and sawdust which helps the drying process and Erm...helps the appearance should you peer into the pit!)end up in the bucket below. There is a small fan running constantly which you can just see on the floor behind the urine waste tube. The fan is powered from our 12v battery and draws next to no power at around 0.1 amps. This provides an airflow which removes odours and aids the drying process for the solid waste. Once the bucket is full it can be sealed with a tight fitting lid and left for 18 months when it will be safe to use as compost. Some folk toss it on the fire but not sure I fancy that job. Still needs a lick of paint but all in all very pleased this all works as promised in the literature. As the blog title says there is no smell at all and its really a pleasant smallest room. Balcony, Wood Store, Somewhere Nice To Sit Decided simple was best and to crack on with the decking out front. Rescued some fallen trees from nearby and rested them against a quickly assembled frame of 6*2 treated joists. This gave us a nice deck to work on the roof from... Always keep a tidy site Ebuilders...you don't want a wayward screw sticking into the foot of one of you volunteer helpers who come to play with trainers on! Bit of good luck, we had one 4.8 length of decking left over so fashioned up three nice steps to the front door. Lucky for us 800mm wide was just right. Finishing Touches If you wait long enough, what you want will come along in Gumtree. Seller said they were £100 per metre and I can believe that. 4m of them in the back of the car and the suspension was riding low! Anyhow, had no confidence in grouting these the normal way so borrowed a piping bag from SWMBO and took my time squeezing it into each gap so it was just proud. Ran a pencil around the gaps and hey ho it looks great. Now just some stove paint to buy and a few dozen more jobs before its finished... Exterior views
  7. 1 point
    Thanks @PeterW. That worked well. I bought 8x laminating pouches for £1 as an experiment and they come up a treat using an iron. Will be stapling them to the gate to my plot tomorrow. Three so far: 1) The house number (as my gate looks like a generic garden gate rather than a building site). 2) A sign saying "For site deliveries please call…" with my phone number. 3) And a generic site safety one like this…
  8. 1 point
    I've had info on now on the Green Homes Grant - but they take it off any RHI payments so it just helps with some of the upfront costs. Can apply at end of this month. I'll see if I get anything. It is valid for ASHP etc.
  9. 1 point
    Dip an offcut of dritherm in a water butt or puddle. I've seen it sat in a puddle for days, lift it up and the water just repels off. Doesn't wick or soak up at all really.
  10. 1 point
    We don’t compost it at all as the other alternative is to burn it. Generally it needs emptied after a couple of months and I store it sealed under the hut then when I have a big garden fire going I pop it on at the end of the night and it turns to ash Its probably 90% sawdust and paper so burns quite well
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    As it is a detached property the only element that affects you to meeting the minimum requirements of the reqs is that internal walls and floors need to achieve an Rw 40 dB, have a look at table 0.2, also look at requirement of E.2 on page 8, and specifically the exceptions to E.2. Those wall types (Diagram 5.1 - 5.3) are example constructions which should achieve an Rw 40 dB. Also it should be noted that an Rw is a lab measurement and you don't need to do any testing in your property as its detached. In fact achieving Rw 40 dB is pretty straight forward. For walls, one layer of plaster board either side of a stud with some mineral wool in the cavity. Floors are also straight forward as they have a larger cavity than walls (Diagram 5.7) . Bear in mind though that the minimum requirement of Rw 40 dB is not actually that good, and i would advise on trying to better things where possible, dependant on practical / cost constraints, things like increasing the number of layers of plasterboard and its density, using metal framing rather than wood studs, using resilient bars, or even independent / staggered studs if noise is a real concern.
  13. 1 point
    Ridge beam to span 7m would be huge eg 450mm deep gluelam or 300mm steel depending on type of tiles and roof covering if ties you can use rods or wire ropes etc they don’t need to be wood
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    I got 1.19 on my air test tony with parge. I reckon both methods would be as good at sealing the blocks. Disadvantage with parge coat is if it cracks behind plasterboard stuck on you wont know whereas you can see and fill any cracks in proper plaster.
  16. 1 point
    Just took a couple of quick pictures of a couple of windows with different colour which might help some folk with some ideas. RAL 6005 - Moss Green Frame: 5005m Signal blue Sash: 5001m Green blue 7035m Light grey Frame: 3003 Ruby Red Sash: DM02 Metallic fine structure
  17. 1 point
    Tiling continues ....
  18. 1 point
    seems a god solution --if you don,t mind striping roof might be simpler and cheaper to a get a frothpak and spray with closed cell foam and get some imnsulation at same time --it will stop all condensation
  19. 1 point
    Unless you need the clear headroom I would put a double ceiling tie at 2.5m from either end with a king post to the ridge. That would be 8x2 doubled and bolted. Then every other rafter would be 6x2 collar truss single side and bolted at 1/3rd rafter depth. If you need headroom, then it’s going to be doubled collar ties at 1/2 depth all the way down, especially if this is a timber frame with a garage door opening at one end.
  20. 1 point
    Yes. Here goes Start with Peter Millard : excellent guy - down in the weeds detail. Lots there - I've been watching his stuff for a few years now. He's a Festool Domino bloke, but not evangelist about it: Festool is not the answer to everything. Then there's Rag and Bone Brown. Bit wordy for my liking but sensible ideas This Kiwi has a passion for plywood. This link is to his list on handling the stuff. Hidden jointing ideas are tops ..... Heres a couple of videos about Lamello jointing That should give you a bit of fire-side reading and watching for a while.
  21. 1 point
    Internally wet plaster is thousands of times better than parge coat and stuck on linings
  22. 1 point
    Watchit pal or I'll change my name again....😅
  23. 1 point
    A quick look at the structure suggests you're not going to achieve any substantial level of insulation without great effort. To stop the drips, a thin layer of closed cell spray foam, Or just tack a roofing membrane under the joists supported with battens or something like chicken mesh to catch the drips.
  24. 1 point
    Definitely need some sort of tie at either ceiling or collar height.
  25. 1 point
    It is yes. Been through this on his other thread. What he could do with is an operating manual.
  26. 1 point
    Turn the speed down on the router. And get some proper router cutter cleaner and lubricant. https://www.trenddirectuk.com/trend-sharpening-and-accessories/trend-lubricants-and-cutter-cleaning
  27. 1 point
    We wanted National Trust olive green, but found they use more than one shade, depending where it is. Foolishly we picked a colour on my iPad, ral 1000, informed our window manufacturer and they sprayed them. Upon delivery I nearly had a fit. They looked very “yellow” and the wife said can I repaint them? . “Not on your nelly” I replied, I hate painting which is why I paid to have them sprayed. It turns out they go well with the rustic bricks and everyone compliments the colour and we have grown to like them (thank goodness). Funnily enough the colour appears to change with the light. So, the moral of this story is, if picking a colour, go see it in the flesh, not on a devise and in natural light (We were lucky).
  28. 0 points
    @pocster is your man here - he is the resident Buildhub slum landlord ... 😂 In seriousness - if you want cheap then contract suites in white from the merchants, or even Wickes or B&Q. The downside is they aren’t the best quality. Have you tried Victoria Plumb or British Bathrooms..??
  29. 0 points
    Yours is rendered block so should not be a problem, as I said mine is brick and will wick water but it got nowhere once in the dritherm. Blown beads was an alternative but as it’s always windy down here I am sure half of them would end up in Somerset 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣.
  30. 0 points
    Having nearly done half my house with ridged board PIR i realise that it must be nearly impossible to install it REALLY WELL on a commercial basis, it just takes so much time and effort to get it 100% right. It’s so obvious that should you get it wrong it will DRAMATICALLY reduce in its performance, And should air be able to get round the back of the board / on the warm side And flow it would render the insulation virtually useless. I have gone for cutting, foaming and taping in multiple layers and the result is fantastic ..... but I have gone seriously OCD And if I put a cost to my time it would be loony asylum stuff for me.
  31. 0 points
    Looks a bit cleaner than earlier. The pocket door looks promising (and expensive).
  32. 0 points
    Pocket hole jig ??? look on you tube. Biscuit cutter or if your really really posh like @ToughButterCup you could use dominoes, but only if your proper posh.
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