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Showing content with the highest reputation on 20/08/20 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Tell them to FO. Better still, sell them your consent for £5k.
  2. 2 points
    So my neighbours have always had issues every since I put planning in . I needed to put a new drain in within the vicinity of a shared boundary . I originally emailed the neighbour with photos from every conceivable angle and that if any damage occurred I would be liable and repair or replace . Chance of anything happening would be near zero as I dug the drain trench by hand and it was a metre away . Neighbour kicked up a fuss and sent us down the party wall act . Total cost of that was around 5k ! Anyway today same neighbour came to me and asked if they could build on top the party wall probably about 60cm . You can imagine my response ... wtf is wrong with people ! . Sure increase the height of the wall via the party wall act . I knew various neighbors would need my consent for any party walls we share , just had to bide my time . Today karma kicked in .
  3. 2 points
    Take the garage roof off. Leave the side wall standing. Take down the rear garage wall. That will give you vastly better access for all the building work. When done, fit a garage door in the back, always handy to have through access to the garden, and fit a better pitched roof to give storage above the garage. Otherwise you will need the concrete pump again for the extension build, and getting materials through will be harder, and everything will have to be done by hand or with a tiny digger.
  4. 2 points
    I think you have some excellent feedback above. I would add: 1 - I think you have too many small rooms. The library / study combo idea is excellent. 2 - I think there is too much circulation space - esp. the hall. See how the Edwardians or the Jacobeans did feature halls in their villa type houses - aiui normally they would get a dramatic staircase and some sort of reception or banquet space into something that size. If you want it dramatic I would move the bottom back from the door by some distance, and make it a Y staircase with 2 branches at the top. I would also make the staircase appreciably wider than a normal one -s ay 1.1-1.2m. The rake of the staircase also matters. You should be able to get a blow-em-away hall without quite such a sacrifice. 3 - Are you being conditioned by compressed London houseplan forms and small rooms? I had a delightful BH London-based visitor this week who commented that my 'orribly tight single bedroom was "medium sized". Different perceptions. Up until now I have thought of it as almost a box - room, with space for a bed, a bookshelf, a chest of drawers and a chair. Educational. Guess where London people who are used to smaller rooms will be sleeping now 😎. 4 - Had some trouble with the font. I read them as "caveman's sports bar" and "petroom". 😛 5 - When you revisit this the context in the plot - sun etc - will be the thing to take care adjusting. 6 - Cautionary. Make sure that you have the rest of your life too. The purpose of a self-build is ultimately to spend your time living in it not building it. We lost my dad at 72 to a condition where the seeds were sown when he was in his 30s, whereas mum had been hoping for another decade together - did not happen. There is a lot to be said for the 'Sacrament of the Present Moment" idea (that version is from a Jesuit idea) - time gone does not come back. That's something I'm coming to reflect on having had months of my otherwise-plans lost in lockdown. (I love the piccie of the dalmation - get a red setter on a floor like that and it will skating around like bambi on ice.) Ferdinand
  5. 2 points
    Some people just take the piss if your too good, I believe in being helpful but you can go too far !!! @pocster sell them the party wall agreement 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣.
  6. 2 points
    I am a believer in karma, in that bad things tend to happen to bad people and good things tend to happen to good people. I am fortunate in that I have good neighbours and we help each other and pool resources, it is so much easier than being awkward with each other. We have had a brief experience of an awkward neighbour and it is just so counterproductive.
  7. 2 points
    It's amazing the number of people who don't get the concept of not being a dick. It's exactly why I went to some length to get a plot that just had farmers fields as neighbors. Having said that I may regret it when I have to dig 100 meters along one of the fields for electricity.
  8. 1 point
    Hi I have put in some of my windows with a tolerance around the frame. I have been looking on the internet but not sure how to fill this gape now. This is a timber frame house and the windows have fire stops around them. Is there a flashing kit or tape for the outside I can use Should I just use expandable foam and sealants to the breather membrane With water Ingres and air tightness what is the correct way to do this
  9. 1 point
    I wonder if this website has had an uptake of visitors since COVID, whereby more people want to do the move into the country & self build thing. If it has maybes there should be a main banner entitled “thinking about self building ? Click here”. To allow people to gain an overall view from us who’ve lost our cherry. General steer as opposed to specific technical advice. I’d vote for Ferdinand's paragraph 6 above to be the first post. Wise words indeed. Our motivation to self build, on turnkey basis, was the same realisation that life is too short, after my wife was unexpectedly diagnosed with a massive brain tumour (thankfully she’s fully recovered).
  10. 1 point
    Better to go 8.5kW and modulate down even on the Gold Coast... The various different calculators all come out between 2.5 and 4.5kW for our place IIRC but I'll be going somewhere between 8 and 10kW to ensure plenty of headroom for DHW.
  11. 1 point
    That's not quite right; both the heating load and heating demand both take into account "internal heat gain" as well as "solar gain". The difference between the two is that the "heating demand" is in kWh and is per year (annual energy usage for heating) wheras the "heating load" is in W and is the energy input needed to keep the house at 20C on the typical coldest day of the year. You'll want to take a slightly more pessamisitic stance on heating load than PHPP though, PHPP tries to be realist which is good for modelling, but not ideal for specifying ASHP. Why? i) because the building might not perform as well as modelled in PHPP in practice ii) occupancy and other heat inputs might not meet PHPP assumptions iii) PHPP uses a design temperature that isn't particularly low (-1.5C in south east). iv) assumed solar gain might not be as much in reality due to shading, neighouring buildings etc. Agree on the other points, another thing to take into account is DHW cyclinder reheat time.
  12. 1 point
    Welcome, you're going to do well here Depends where you draw the line at structure. if you mean up to the point of first fix commencement - i.e. externals complete (i.e. weather tight) and all interior walls present, then I think we had spent about 50-60% of our budget by that stage? This excludes landscaping. Challenge with the post first fix stage is that the original budget can inflate again as you're dealing with more discretionary items and things that you'll actually see - kitchens, bathrooms, floor finishes, stairs, lighting etc etc. We definitely upgraded some items like stairs and doors to get the final finish we wanted. Usually, although we increased our original approved footprint by 50% by adding a full size basement once we'd secured planning for the above ground portion. No issues at all with that from our LA. You can always find a story to scare yourself with but I've seen a lot of basements and all are beautiful warm dry bright spaces that enhance the property no end. Like any other part of the house they need to be designed and built properly. if you have challenging ground or access then the cost may outweigh the benefit.
  13. 1 point
    As I understand it: The "heating load" is what you want. It's expressed in watts per square metre of floor area, so multiply by the floor area 11*241.9 = 2660 = 2.7kW. So a 2.7kW output heatpump, running flat-out 24x7 and with no other inefficiencies (and not running the DHW) would just be enough to maintain their assumed temperature on the coldest days. You obviously need one bigger than that. The difference between "heating demand" and "heating load" is other assumed heat inputs to the building not from the heating system: cooking, electrical appliances, warm bodies etc. So you'd need the larger "heating demand" number if for some strange reason you wanted to be sure you could keep the house fully up to temperature when you weren't living there. There's other adjustments needed to the raw: obviously you've got to add the DHW requirement; a heatpump might not actually produce its full nominal output under the conditions you want (datasheets often quote several figures for combinations of output water temperature and outdoor temperature: since the max input power is typically fixed by the size of the compressor, the output power depends on efficiency, which will be lower on cold days and lower the hotter you need the output water to achieve the heat transfer); and you probably want more than the bare minimum to hold the temperature, just in case you've let the temperature drop for some reason and want to bring it back up within a reasonable time.
  14. 1 point
    Depends - my 120m2 basement cost £100k in 2015 so no more expensive, if not cheaper than the rest of the house structure. It is of passive standard and constructed from warrantied waterproof concrete. The electrics, plastering, joinery and decoration were additional but not excessive and there were economies of scale applied with the rest of the house. We now have an amazing space that comprises two soundproof teenage TV rooms / dens, / music rooms (one has a drum kit and guitars, amps etc) a gym and a large library / craft room. Plus a plant room for services, all of which frees up the rest of the living space. Planners tend to turn something of a blind eye to basements (ours did anyway) as they don't impact massing or bulk or impact the street scene so if you're restricted in spacer those reasons they are an excellent option. However there are a number of caveats that will drive the cost of a basement, mainly ground conditions (inc soil type, bearing capacity, water table levels etc) and the access you have to build them. A full footprint basement will also act as the foundation for the above ground structure so you're justified in removing that cost from the basement - in which case I could knock off another £30k or so.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks, although some of the blog photos were soon after being fitted. The roof today after two years is quite universal, although the north through last of sunlight will probably look slightly different in the next few years. As other have said the contrast in different slates is not a bad look but I suppose it's down to personal preference. To me it's similar to cladding, we got a few cracks in the Siberian larch but it's natural product, if we wanted to be completely sure of the flawless look we would use an artificial product like Marley Eternit. I suppose dust from ridge tiles etc and lead work can also create some temporary discoloration.
  16. 1 point
    An eye for an eye, kick up a fuss and send them down the party wall act route .... or you would be prepared to accept an apology .... and £5k
  17. 1 point
    I think that is interesting - what @Bozza has been able to do is the extensive learning process that all self-builders need to develop a (limited - architects have 7 years) subset / appreciation of certain parts of the architect skillset, and then to generalise it to a different plot. Spending open-minded time up front can help a lot of self-builders get a better, less 'play school' house for the same or less money. A lot do that, but some don't. The same applies to living in it as life changes. Ferdinand
  18. 1 point
    Completely agree. I believe the psychological term is cognitive dissonance - if an individual does something that they know goes against social or moral norms, they will subconsciously create a narrative that justifies it and just keep doubling down on it when challenged.
  19. 1 point
    Martin, when it does come to designing your house also don’t forget about multifunctionality. Take my house in earlier reply. The triple upstairs window on the main larch elevation has the best view in the house. My ten year old is getting that as when she has friends around & when she’s a teenager she’ll be in her Bedroom during daylight hours more than me and Mrs. We have a separate TV room downstairs at the back of the house. When my daughter eventually leaves home the TV room will become a bedroom (it’s next to a downstairs cloakroom with a future shower). And her bedroom, with a view, becomes an upstairs snug or whatever for us to enjoy. We've configured our house with three decent bedrooms upstairs - one a spare. But if we did sell, the downstairs TV room & study, both off a small hallway at back of house, become bedrooms. So we’ve built a big 3 bedroom house for our needs but a 5 bedroom one if we ever do sell it. box clever mate.
  20. 1 point
    pretty standard really. 140mm Frametherm 32 with 80mm PIR on top.
  21. 1 point
    It’s a natural product - it will have variations. No two slates will be alike. If you don’t want that then you will need to use a man made product and change any PP to have that agreed.
  22. 1 point
    Patches, it's the way it is. Step back 100 meters, and you can't see it. Zoom in, and you do. Enjoy it. Especially if it's the only problem you have.
  23. 1 point
    Backdrops not required. Given that this is only a gym I would want to reduce the cost by 40%. EPS insulation is fine under the slab and if you DIY will save 70%. You may get a more economical slab design. The £4,700 for the trench and buried plastic seems steep. With the prelims, because they are a percentage these should come down as well. Just use this as an initial quote and look at savings that can be made. Because it is a fair sized slab you will need someone competent to pour and finish the concrete. Regarding the build method, why not blockwork cavity walls with insulation? Does not need to be passive standard, just normal batts or partial fill pur. If you are keen to muck in you could load out the blocks for your brickie. You could have the brickie and his mate do a day a week and they would do it in no time.
  24. 1 point
    This is how mine ended up looking:
  25. 1 point
    This is solid advice - the plot should be the most important bit of the puzzle, find the best plot you can and then sort out the house design which really makes the most out of the plot - in terms of the design, what you can do is try to work out what spaces you want, and the relationship between them all - also work out your priorities in terms of the must haves and the nice to haves, as there may be a tough budget discussion to be had at some point...
  26. 1 point
    If you haven’t found a plot yet I wouldn’t spend to much on your design/layout beyond just messing about. That was my mistake. When I found a suitable plot (with house on it to be demo’d) I had real difficulties doing my design. I then realised because I’d spent so long thinking about my perfect design it had influenced my creative juices. I had to teach myself to forget my old designs and start afresh. My plot was funny shaped and had great views which my design needed to take advantage of. Also the style you would love to build may not be acceptable by planners in certain areas. You’re better off having a wish list accommodation wise and assembling a portfolio of house styles You do like (Pinterest etc) for when you find your plot. Then the fun starts !
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    25 by 50, doubled in one or two places.... The blue ones, not the knotty sort.
  29. 1 point
    25x50 but doubled up where necessary. I found the GSE instructions unnecessarily complicated with regard to batten spacing. If I remember correctly, the only figure you really need is the 'additional line' which differs depending on which size panels you have. Lay down extra battens if the mount fixings are unlucky enough to miss a batten.
  30. 1 point
    My last place was 360m it was BIG. Just check you need 400m.
  31. 1 point
    400 sqm is a massive space so are you ever likely to need more space? If you do attic trusses, make sure you also leave enough room for a future stair too, and make sure your fire escape route could be protected too
  32. 1 point
    Before During Finished! Spot the birdy Now just two more planters and a catio (google it!) to do and I might get my promise👀
  33. 1 point
    At the very least built the roof with Attic Trusses. the rest you can do relatively easier later if you want to.
  34. 1 point
    Ditto, but doubled up (so 100 x 38).
  35. 1 point
    I used 38x50 - roofing battens!!
  36. 1 point
    You can't really tell what the root of the problem is until you get a few tiles up and see if the floor is actually moving
  37. 1 point
    Not true, you need to offer the branches back, but he doesn’t need to accept them.
  38. 1 point
    It's the wrong example to use in this situation. The one @Temp mentioned/quoted is the correct one. I was just about to log off for the day, but attached is what is possible under PD. Firstly, the red is what I assume to be the "original" house... not existing or how it stands now but original. The blue line are previous extensions that are "not" original". The green is what can be done under PD, so a porch to the front under 3sq.m, a single storey side extension no greater than half the width of the "original" house and a single storey rear extension that does not exceed 3m (assuming it's a semi-detached or terraced property). Of course the OP can increase up 6m via Prior Approval and NCS, etc... Under PD, you "cannot" link the side extension with the rear extension as it will trigger the PD rules for both side "and" rear extensions and of which you would be greater than half the width of the original house. There are ways you can link these extensions but their overall widths have to be reduced to half the width of the house. There have been so many failed CoL applications on this and I can provide so many links to where people have interpreted the rules... incorrectly.
  39. 1 point
    The bit that fills in the "L" of the existing house by the pantry is classed as BOTH a rear and a side extension so both sets of rules apply. Page 23 says.. That includes the "no more than half the width" rule for side extensions. Its unfair but true. It means L shape houses can't have a full width rear extension where as flat back houses can.
  40. 1 point
    For very high ceilings, I have two amateur ideas: (1) I think a plate rail with a different colour scheme above helps deal with the height; (2) a dark-ish floor below helps anchor the floor. I have the lighting book @ToughButterCupmentioned (on his recommendation). Got more from it than I expected.
  41. 1 point
    You could have pendants with long cords, so the light is closer to the area being lit. Any spot lights may be so high up as to have little effect. Have the lights at about 2200mm from the floor. Means you can safely access for cleaning / changing lamps. Look at wall lights / table lights / standard lamps as well. Make sure they are easy to switch, so you don't have to spend time groping about to operate them.
  42. 1 point
    Have is got any rooflights in it or exposed structure etc?
  43. 1 point
    Watching this. my 5m ceilings are giving me nightmares wondering what an earth to do with them.
  44. 1 point
    We have the uplighters and I need to put them into the channels as at the moment they shine in a wavy fashion onto the ceiling, or maybe I just need to take the backing off and tape them down. I was too tight to buy the channels when they went in, but they don't look quite right at the moment. We have a wall wash via a channel cut into the ceiling, your design would be more elegant but quite a bit of work. Ours works well and is pretty well hidden when it is off.
  45. 1 point
    Tony fella. Sorry, but in my humble opinion you have been given a lot of irrelevant, and subsequently, rubbish advice on this post. It all very well telling you what they would do, or have done to trees that are on there own land. I dare, any of them on here to risk taking out a large established tree that is not. You will have done some research, and you will know that you won't be ordered by the court to pay for the full cost of a sapling. You will be required to pay the full value of the tree ££££££. To take out the tree, without your neighbours permission, by accident or otherwise, would be a seriously big gamble, and could cost you so much more than an alternative foundation design. With regard screw piles, I did look into them, and there are a couple of companies that do the engineering calcs, installation, etc. You might find bco's a bit resistant, but it is more than possible to build a house on screw piles. Personally, I think they are a great eco product. Virtually no spoil. No concrete. I hope you don't think I singled you out for a bit of stick? You certainly don't come across as stupid, and I think that your post was more, searching for a devine Ray of light, than looking for some stupid comments like, take it out with a digger. Best of luck Tony. P. S. In the future, I believe that most new houses will be built using screw piles. Unfortunately, being a bit ahead of the curve means it may cost you a bit more than people in the future. Regards Jim
  46. 1 point
    This thread is making me laugh. Somebody bought a piece of land, and designed a house, which they put in for planning permission They did all of that knowing that the tree on neighbouring land was there, and would be a problem. They now expect somebody to be happy to remove, or have the tree removed. Please answer me this One question. WHY SHOULD HE ? ........."I won't be giving him any £10k" ...........Fine then you crack on and move your house somewhere else. Why do you all think the owner of the tree needs, or should do anything ? The owner, and the tree were there a long time before matey came along, and designed a house that he is now going to struggle to build. Who is really at fault here ? My £10k offer now expires in 28days. It then becomes £12k for 28 days, etc, etc. And building that close to the Boundary.....Don't expect any access, scaffolding etc......which i can arrange.... for a fee.
  47. 0 points
    I’ve a friend who has an Allotment in a semi rural village The Allotment has been in his family for around 70 years A row of new houses have been built nearby and one of the incomers has complained that my mate cockerels keep crowing and guess what Same bloody time each morning 😂
  48. 0 points
    Just wind them up with some story about wanting to keep the wall low as you need a line of site for a massive amateur radio installation, a view for the occupants of the tents youre erecting to house asylum seekers, and to disperse the noise from your garden of a bagpipe playing Scottish relative who is coming to stay with you. Also it will oppress the rights and discriminate against the local nudist societies over 80s group who will be holding their meetings in your garden.
  49. 0 points
    I’d like to note admin creatively altered the title of my thread 😎
  50. 0 points
    Explain it to me would ya?
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