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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/05/20 in all areas

  1. In case anyone out there is interested - we managed to reclaim our PD rights successfully. A real result. Much teeth-gnashing among the neighbours but hey, the rules are the rules, right? We found the council lob this remove PD rights clause almost as a default setting, which is extraordinary. There's a total pattern to it. It's like preying on the naivety of home owners. Anyway, this is the man we have to think for a formidable application > http://just-planning.co.uk/
    2 points
  2. It’s quite common to spread white chippings on these roofs to stop the felt heating up too much, less hot than black felt!
    2 points
  3. Is it better to make it level, but with a gap (150-200mm?) between the fascia and the deck, and a little bridge at the door threshold? That would require a lip to the decking, but would prevent any need to bugger about with ramps between guests etc. Will your staff - whoever they are - be able to move a ramp that size?
    2 points
  4. We used a bit of plastic sheeting to protect our frame last autumn. It was a pain in the arse as it constantly blew out. It was quite windy here. If you go down this route I would suggest not just relying on staples, they will rip through the plastic no bother. Perhaps use the polytunnel approach of trapping the plastic over and under a batten and nail through this?
    1 point
  5. Spare cables, I leave coiled up adjacent to an accessory in use. Later you can just pop the back box of that accessory out and reach in to retrieve your spare cables. But keep a note and photographs of where they all end up.
    1 point
  6. Also, make sure you’re cleaning out all the bits of goop and PTFE tape as they’ll go into the float valve and cause it to fail early.
    1 point
  7. That needs a tap connector, https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-straight-tap-connector-15mm-x/3063f And will be used with a fibre washer
    1 point
  8. I am not convinced this is a wise idea. It will look great to start with. How long will the tv last? 10 years? Will you be able to repair it or get a replacement exactly the same size? By all means create a recess so you can mount a tv truly flat to the wall with space for all the cables and space to recess a bracket so the actual tv will be right flat against the wall, but I would not personally recess the tv completely. In any case the space you will need will be dictated by how the tv hangs on it's bracket and how much space you need to lift it on and off the bracket. Perhaps an over size hole with a surround that fits snug to the tv. Then if you have to change tv get one as close to the same size and just re make the surround piece?
    1 point
  9. Ps I will own up to fitting an avocado bath and a mink one Gone a full circle and back on white now
    1 point
  10. I perhaps wouldn’t have given it a second thought But for our Architects pointing out that if we went for Chartwell green (our preferred option )The house may look dated once built Grey was just coming in at the time
    1 point
  11. Think I’ll add a few more straps !
    1 point
  12. Last one I did we did with the walls lying down, dead easy to stand them up, building was 12m x 20m single storey 2.4m high, all insulation batts, sheet insulation and vapour barrier 2 days three men - add a bit for walls standing up - take off a bit as we stood our walls up too
    1 point
  13. @pocster I have had to use a boss like you due to restricted space and it works fine. ?
    1 point
  14. I would watch how much water you put in it, it will get very heavy.
    1 point
  15. white chippings would be the cheapest soloution as @joe90 described. Commercial projects use 'Big Foot' supports or this kind of thing https://www.roof-pro.co.uk/flat-roof-accessories/roof-walkway-system/ but they're overkill for your problem.
    1 point
  16. Boards will probably blow away if not fixed down which gives you a challenge ! You can’t fix through the roof membrane or it will leak, concrete slabs will heat up too (although not as much as felt) so you need a way to attach the boards to something heavy.
    1 point
  17. I know you don’t want it level, but, if you did you could incorporate this all round https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1726633069?iid=270630536321&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=
    1 point
  18. That's the thing, they've not signed off our drawings even though they had them since December, with queried resolved in January. Our assigned BCO is furloughed.... So have to phone them (North down and ards) again and see what the story is. One way or the other, foundations are going ahead next week!
    1 point
  19. Ok you are trying to do it backwards. No easy way unless you cut a piece to the largest gap then scribe based on that. quickest and easiest way - run a board the right height up to the rough wall. Make a scribing wheel - 50mm piece of hardboard with a hole for a pencil will do - and run it top to bottom following the wall. You have your wall profile. Cut along that line with a coping saw or jigsaw. Mark the ceiling and floor at the edge of your last board so they are easily seen then slide the cut edge of the board against the wiggly wall. Mark your pencil marks from the ceiling and floor onto the wiggly edge board. Remove the board and cut a straight line between your pencil marks and fit the board into place - it will fit the gap.
    1 point
  20. this is certainly my idea ,if I have enough money left to build things on my site fully disabled access with wet room ,full disabled toilet full heating system +cooking facilities and car parking right next to them --so they can be all year round occupation I see that is where the growth market is . providing you have views like i do
    1 point
  21. Do you know anyone in a wheelchair? One forum member when designing his house to be "accessible" found it helpful to speak to a wheelchair user to find out what they really want, rather than the building regs version of what they think they want.
    1 point
  22. They exactly The same base coat 3 sand one cement Top coat 4 sand 1 cement Wet dash 4-2-1 Four stone two sand one cement Wet dash once cured is indestructible We often use white cement in in the top coat and in with the WD and a spade of lime It will dry a creamy white and never need painting
    1 point
  23. I used these through my flat roof to hallway ; https://www.sterlingbuild.co.uk/product/lightway-crystal-300-hp-blue-performance-0-6 Double glazing is within the insulated section, not at the end. Not getting any condensation and seem thermally perfectly adequate. They're great for light to find my way in a corridor with no direct natural light, but in the proposed kitchen scenario where some areas are getting hard sun I wouldn't expect the tubes to balance matters and make the other areas feel 'sunny'...with some spilled ambient light in those areas anyway the sun tubes effect could almost be lost....i think.
    1 point
  24. Just giving some offhand comments, I've browsed through this thread quickly so if I'm redundant or way off, just consider it as some minor food for thought and/or confirmation of agreement.. - No issue with master & living being close, at first floor, although I would increase sound separation. You have one thin wall between your bed and your master. You could perhaps consider sealing off the stairs to buffer the sound. - Not ideal to have no bathroom near kitchen/living. I'd consider sacrificing the end of the utility, which is currently massive. - The word 'snug' to me always translates to 'I have no idea what to do with this space'. Are you certain it's a good idea? Why not a larger bed2 (ensuite?) - The porch is sealed? I can kinda see the point of a open space, but if it's basically a room before your house then unless you have horses you need to scrub I'd skip. - The living space feels a bit 'tennis-court-y' - no real separation of features, which includes kitchen noises and smells. Haven't thought deeply on if it's fixable - If TV/movies is not your thing, fine, but obviously putting a TV in that corner will not let you get close to a nice viewing experience. - Have you thought about storage space in dressing area? Can you fit all your clothes in 1.6(?) m of wardrobe? Offhand, I'd put the stairs in the bottom right corner, and reclaim a larger amount of space for a living area, perhaps even separate it off (pocket door? dressing door down as far as possible?)
    1 point
  25. I think there is little choice as there is little demand. Only a tiny fraction of new builds in UK are self build and many of those are turnkey commissioned by clients. The volume builders have zero interest in proper automation, maybe a few niche high end players. I expect the majority of automation demand will be from the retro-fit and based on WiFi and BT vs wired ethernet in the wall so that's where the supply focus and innovation will be. Even though me & the missus are both grad electronic engineers and work in technology industry, neither of us were persuaded to do any automation in our new build as the first fix cabling was an irreversible commitment either way (trad radial vs hub & spoke) and we could only see issues with extra cost, vendor obsolescence, sparing for h/w failures etc. I'd also worry about potential resell issues in the future if your setup is seen as too 'funky'.
    1 point
  26. Can you drill the hole into the soil pipe then rotate it so its higher up?
    1 point
  27. welcome to the madhouse, in three years you'll have caught up with @joe90
    0 points
  28. You could paint a white "cat runway" I suppose
    0 points
  29. Get a dog. Cats will move quicker and not burn their feet.
    0 points
  30. Why not just buy a doorbell like a normal person ..??
    0 points
  31. We actually have 4 dogs! BUT I don’t think they’d scare anyone away, they’d bark certainly but I think they’d welcome anyone who came in!
    0 points
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