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This spell of exceptional sunshine has exposed a flaw with SageGlass. It reflects so much sunlight that it's scorching the lawn in front of the main south-facing glazing! ?

In my situation I used a shower tray that had 50-70mm upstands And brought the wall panel down over the upstands and finished it above the edge of the tray, next Time I will finish it higher as so that the gap is easier to clean.

This is just my own personal opinion but a PM is never gonna care as much about your project as you and they are never gonna find the cheapest deals. On a self build near mine, the PM never went to site and was shocked when he was fired - after the floor went in at wrong levels and he expected the customer to pay for it to be put right! As Dan Fest said, a good main contractor will more than likely know other trades that he/she uses and knows their work. Out of interest, have you had a price for a PM?

No 1 tip, for something like this where you have to cut the panels to size and cut holes in them, template it with a large piece of cardboard and cut it from that: Corner trim and end trim on the two ends. Do NOT use the multipanel bottom trim. Others agree that it is a stupid design that leaves the bottom of the panel sat in water. Instead finish the panel a few mm from the floor or shower tray and seal under the gap. Run the panel down onto the shower tray, do not run it down behind and then put the tray in front, that is a recipe for leaks. The trim panels are barely 1mm thick. Do not worry about them making things out of square. They are insignificant. the wall will be out of square / out of true by much more. Finished result:

I ran my wall panel under the shower screen and an end trim level with the outside of the screen trim.

As a sidenote, I've never seen a Cool White LED in an installation where Warm White didn't look better. In simpler terms, I wouldn't ever recommend Cool White.

This is my back garden and the front is about the same size but with huge lawns on the flat..... I blame the garden for my incredibly slow progress on the Building renovations.....

Today was our four year wedding anniversary. It was also Day 1 of the builders starting promptly at 730am and as we got the day off work we decided to leave them to it and escape. Since the cancelled Ideal Home show and home associated birthday plans in March I've been online adding things to my ever growing Pinterest board and my particular obsession has been a bath and although we had done some browsing before lockdown I hadn't seen anything that really caught my eye. My wife concerned with the ever growing board of bath pictures offered today to go and look at some. So heading north commenced our bathroom shopping with a list of places to visit, mainly ex display showroom baths. No posh anniversary meals, stopping for cheese and beetroot sandwiches I'd made to take with us (who said romance was dead)? Lots of baths later and still not fully decided and the threat of with 'we aren't coming back again' we get to our final stop in Bradford. I'd had a notification en route from eBay saying it had been reduced further and 'you are not haggling' resulted in me haggling a bit more discount too and the tap thrown in as well (the wife had walked out at this point leaving me to it). Managed to get it in the Jeep with about 10mm spare (I'm sure there is a joke somewhere a out how many people it takes to fit a bath into a Jeep). So, Happy Anniversary - we bought each other a bath! Here is the bath modelled by me - safely home in our garage. Just caught the builders - that big hole in the last post. It's no longer a hole.

So we've got our grass down - pic below just after laying so not finally fixed hence small wrinkles etc but really happy with that! [... polite advertising removed ... ] My question for those of you experienced with this stuff is what is the best way to remove leaves/pine needles/pine cones etc that will be collecting on it? A blower, a sucker, some form of power broom???

Me neither, but apparently it does what it says on the tin! https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/floetrol/

Or a further alternative. Get them to agree to you burying a length of cable ducting up your plot passing over the buried 11KV cable at the rime the 11KV cable is installed, through which you will later pull any cables you want with no need for excavation at that point.

Two things strike me. Why does the branch have to come from the same place? Would it be possible to take the branch from where the crossing line passes your left boundary. That WOULD mean an extra pole at that point, but that would avoid the orange cable passing under your land across the plot and remove the issue, so would that be a price worth paying? The other, is if all you want to bury is a cable for the solar PV, just do it. the 11KV cable will be a lot deeper than you need to go for an LV cable, just hand dig that part to be sure.

+1 With UFH you have loops of pipe going from manifold(s) to each room. By fitting valves to the manifold ports you can control the temperature of each room using a thermostat in each room. If the thermostats are programmable you can also have different temperatures at different times or have some rooms off (eg guest room). The key to maintaining flexibility is to specify one floor loop per room, no loops shared between rooms. Later you can decide if you want a thermostat stat in each room or one in the hall controlling multiple rooms. Personally I like the fact that we can control the temperature of each room individually. It allows us to warm up the bathroom floor without heating the bedrooms for example. Your open plan ground floor may need more than one loop. That's no problem, you just need enough ports on the manifold. One thermostat can control more than one loop.

Normally with UFH you would have one thermostat per room, so one for the open plan downstairs, one for each bedroom and one for bathroom. I would not like to comment on how well, if at all, Nest thermostats would connect to the UFH manifold controllers. some expect a normal thermostat, some have their own standards and need their own thermostats.

Short answer is No You can use Ply cement board I always use Ditra matting Stuck down with Ardex adhesive Tile same day

This is ours. Probably the worst ever shape for artificial turf! It's been down a year now. We're very pleased with it - it's great to walk on throughout the year and no mowing is great for me as I get hayfever pretty badly. Leaves are a problem though and I'm thinking of getting a lawn vacuum. Blowers don't seem to work that well, maybe becuase we have no 'corners' to blow it into.

Hi @AliG we used the following - found them to be reliable, reasonably priced and quick with their report / findings. http://www.meteorsoilsurveys.co.uk/

Here's a really good breakdown of how to both spray and roll at sensible prices. Top bloke is Peter Millard, top bloke.

We let our chickens graze it - food and bits are removed almost before they hit the floor. If the chickens don't, the dogs do. Dead leaves and the like - a blower - with the wind not against it. (Getting your own back). We now have docken leaves growing through the matting, and one dandelion.

Henry.

Check the BBA certificate for the brand of OSB that you're using, just in case, but in general 18mm OSB3 is suitable for flooring over 400mm centres (potentially up to 600mm). For bathrooms & shower rooms I would personally upgrade to an external plywood.

Most car bodyshops will also do interior bits like this, and there are plenty of guys doing kitchen door respray/ refurbs.

Yes I’m replacing the mixer and head, infact I’m replacing 3 of them. Closer to the time if you let me know what bits you need I can get a quote for shipping

This was my base profile. Showerwall Sureseal £12.49 + VAT Comprising of 3 parts this sureseal system is made up of the main strip for the panels to be mounted to, end caps to seal off the ends and a front strip that pops in to place to hide the sealant and cut edges leaving a nice tidy finish once installed.

@CpdIs that the Multipanel Type X bottom profile...? https://www.rubberduckbathrooms.co.uk/multipanel-base-profile-type-x-by-grant-westfield

You run a bead of high quality silicone in the several mm vertical gap you have left below the panels. Whether you fill it to the point where the silicone is proud and profile it using one of those oojie-boojie silicone profiling tools is I think up to you. I would. F

Yes and neither of us meant that! ?

..... and again I will add that I used the trim, filled it with clear ct1 And squished it on, installed the panel about 4 years ago and it is still perfect I did NOT want any silicone on show and this worked perfectly. There is just no way water will get in if done correctly. I will do the same again In my next shower upgrade.

Good guidance above.

The bottom line is the FIT has gone. You CAN still get an export payment, the best on offer seems to be 5.5p per kWh and for that, the system must be installed by an MCS engineer and you must have a smart meter to measure export. Rough guess 10.5kWp is going to generate about 6500kWh per year so you would get paid about £360 for that. The payback time is just way to long. Not viable on that basis. I still believe PV is only viable now if you can get the kit very cheap and self install and then self use most of what you generate. On that basis I am expecting a 6 year payback.

Corner trim in the corner for me. Did the tart have upstands? I prefer to stop the panel 8mm off the tray with a 30 degree chamfered cut if it was mine I would take the door and frame off and stop the panels with edge trims exactly on the outside of the door frame profile

£10 on e bay. Glass suckers. (See my advert) hook in ceiling then some type of small block n tackle 3-1 ratio will work and not cost much.

heres another way maybe if your man made long thin versions of these then you don,t even need a crane and just hand fill the holes? another way --wonder if blocks this size are available in uk

@scottishjohn if you look carefully you will see there is 50x50 trunking already installed all around the cabinet. Where it's needed I have installed it. As for running cable in conduit, you still have to put the conduit somewhere. If that "somewhere" is in the EPS then it will still derate the cable, albeit not quite as badly. From recollection (I don't have the 7671 guide at home, cos it's living at site at the mo) clipped direct gives 27A limit, in conduit in EPS would give 18.5A or thereabouts (although some argue that the derating isn't valid if you're talking about conduit that is also touching the plasterboard, the regs don't give a firm steer either way so I play safe). Besides which, the lifetime of the mains cable for sockets (which is all that I am chasing into the EPS anyway) is probably longer than my remaining years on this planet, and sockets don't tend to need additional cables pulled ?

We have approx 1200m of LSZH twin and earth installed in our ICF build. Costs a chunk extra, to be sure - first, because its roughly 30% more expensive to buy 6242b cable than the same thickness of the usual grey 6242y cable; second because you're embedding the cable in insulation, you have to derate the cable. That means you end up running radials and rings in 4mm2 cable instead of 2.5mm2. Here's an idea of the hell I am in with cabling... That will one day be a home automation system, with DMX controlled lighting and power circuits, and either Loxone or Unipi managing it all. For now, it's just my nightmare that comes true every time I visit site. ?

Other way around, I take their money. Rob them blind with patter about Mermaid, krakens and expensive parking.

You 'avin a dig?

The man who measures his efforts through time taken is the man that will fail. The other man that posts on forums about time taken of said man comes from Cornwall

What about dog/cat/fox/peacock sh!t? How do you clean that up from it?

Does SWMBO know? Or are you asking me to delete this thread? All part of the Mod service ?