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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/31/20 in all areas

  1. I'm not sure that the picture is correct in showing how it should be done. It's important that water doesn't collect on the top reveal. On my house I had the top part of the reveal inset from the side pieces so the cladding goes over the top of the front edge of the top reveal with a 3mm weep gap between the cladding and top reveal.
    2 points
  2. I've been using Chrome remote desktop quite successfully to connect to my Windows box, you can try that if Microsoft's own product is nobbled not to work on the free ed OS? I'm similarly doing this to access the Loxone Home automation designer software. I understand they have a Mac OS version of it too now. And the SW is one thing they don't charge for (and it's not terrible either).
    1 point
  3. We fitted GU10 LED downlights. Personally I prefer bulbs with a wide angle (eg 90-160 degrees) as you get more even lighting and fewer hard shadows but for some reason narrow angle bulbs (30-50 degrees) seem to be more common. As for brightness... There are two types of halogen bulbs that people compare LEDs with... 230V GU10 and 12V MR16. In general MR16 halogen are brighter than GU10 halogen so GU10 halogen are usually spaced closer together than MR16. When installing GU10 LED in a kitchen I recommend you pick LED bulbs with a light output of around 400 Lumens and install them at the spacing normally used for GU10 halogen or perhaps slightly closer together. If you do that they will be at least as bright as GU10 halogen and possibly brighter. I think most places recommend rows 90-100cm apart but with the outer rows closer to the walls, say 75cm away. You can also choose between warm and cool/cold white LED. Personally I prefer warm white.
    1 point
  4. When I was recently doing some repairs to my cabin windows I realised that water was blowing into the structure between the cladding and the window linings and has caused rot to the fairly cheep marine ply linings (it’s only a cabin...) to solve this I replaced the linings with yet more cheep ply ? (as i had it on stock) but added A rubber seal between The cladding ends and the linings. It’s worked really well and I can at least rest assured that water won’t be getting behind there anymore. The top of the window is ply lined that comes down at an angle So any water will always want to come out, I upgraded this by cutting up some old velux flashings (I have many....) And put them on top with a lip to keep the ply nice and dry. Other photos are of the back of the cabin with the cladding overshooting to protect the linings, The linings are all angled down so that any water that blows in it will always fall towards the cladding rather than the window. The cladding is all cut at 45 degrees to help shed water rather than it sitting on the bottom edge of the boards.
    1 point
  5. draw some plans up and the forum will give you help no doubt
    1 point
  6. GU10's for me. If you choose anything else, make sure you keep plenty of spares, because my worry is when they fail in 5 or 10 years time, you won't be able to buy identical replacements.
    1 point
  7. Worth every penny if you are a nerd / geek / twat ?
    1 point
  8. I think you said something about the kitchen being bright before and tbh I didn’t want to rain on your parade. My kitchen has 10 windows and 2 French doors yet the actual area where the cabinets are has no windows where light falls directly on it and you nearly always need the lights on in that area. If I had known I would have had another window that hit that area specifically. Light tends not to fall more than a couple of metres from a window. The problem is it is hard to have lots of windows where your cabinets are as they interfere with the wall space a kitchen needs. It will be fine with the lights on but if you want natural light you’ll have to move the kitchen. I notice the top of the windows in the sunroom are very low. According to my architect it is seeing the sky through a window that tends to make it feel lighter. I would take the windows higher up towards the ceiling. Windows normally go up to within a few hundred mm of the ceiling if not all the way.
    1 point
  9. sort of like this, but spend more than 30 seconds on it like I did to get it working right with dimensions etc. If your happy doing that shuttering then carry on I think you have it sorted. Regarding the cold bridge, you can put external XPS insulation, stuck onto the blockwork, this is then covered in something to protect it. You then alter your cladding battens to stick out further than the XPS.
    1 point
  10. a VM crash should have no effect on the NAS. rebooting a dead VM on Synology? I don't know! on a Qnap system there's an app called Virtualisation Station. in there you manage and control all of your VMs and can access them through the virtualisation app. how this is done on Synology is beyond me. maybe @joth knows? otherwise, it'll need a google search. I don't have time now but if I get a chance later I'll see if I can find anything on Google about Synology virtualisation.
    1 point
  11. Interesting. I reckon I could fill my tanked pockets up like a pond.
    1 point
  12. Roofers use Acrypol, around £150 for 20l. I've used it on my Mums roof and found it to be good stuff. Just warm up the can by leaving it in hot water or the hot sun for ages
    1 point
  13. <drum roll>.....we have our planning application approval! yay!! I was really expecting a long drawn out process but pretty much a month after we hired our planning consultant we got our approval. I'm pretty gobsmacked to be honest but we're over the moon. can't believe it all happened so quickly. I had discussions with the planning consultant about what we were willing to compromise on and what we weren't. we also determined what we could potentially build using PD on the existing building and the planning consultant also did some research and found other approvals for applications that were similar in size increase over the existing property as ours. Putting it all together we ended up offering to remove the annexe whilst keeping the rest of the building the same but with increasing the basement to the full size of the main building. A bit of escalation within the department as our planning officer was out of office for a while and we were told to submit the new drawings with the annexe removed and a decision would be made on those new drawings without the need for another consultation period. all of the above equated to us receiving our approval this morning. ? the bubbly is in the fridge chilling and waiting to be opened shortly.
    1 point
  14. Never seen these but they are a good idea. Without checking the details myself, do they com3 in different s dims? 85mm is shallow once tiled. I made my own (marmot and orbry board) Openings with tile sizes in mind to try and limit cut edges and to fit mosaics. I did hav3 the luxury of a large cavity
    1 point
  15. So are you basically asking whether there’s any cost saving in upgrading as opposed to a new build?
    1 point
  16. Always use JTM Plumbing for bulk online orders, and Screwfix for bits. https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/ Is this DHW etc..?? Anything non heating related you can use non barrier. Oh, and when running it through walls, buy some lengths of 21.5mm overflow pipe and drill 22mm holes - sleeve the pipe through with this. Don't forget some decent cutters ...
    1 point
  17. We did a comparison between a number of systems and the Pex-A systems were not a patch on the JG or Hep2O systems for a number of reasons. The key ones were : - hot water (above 30c) pressure capability is significantly lower than established systems - warranty of 10/25 years depending on systems vs 50 years (from Wavin) - interconnects between new / old requiring specialist fittings - cost of installation / tooling and skills to install were more complex - ability to decouple or remake joints or change layouts was restricted with press or weld systems. - long term availability of spares / replacement parts were not locally available. - standard vs non standard pipe dimensions meant increased number of interconnects and increased price. The key reason for sticking with a 15/22/28 standard was that it was immediately available and did not require any specialist skills or tooling to install, along with a simple method to connect with existing installations or indtustry standard fittings. In terms of flow rates and restrictions, neither system (Pex-A or Hep2O) provide any significant restriction to flow as whilst Pex-A uses expanded pipe around a full bore fitting, the Hep2O sleeve is now stainless and does not impede water flow at all. There are also a whole host of issues around the actual design of the fittings and what happens if you apply lateral stress to them which are based on the material they are made from which makes them susceptible to low flex failure but that’s beyond this discussion I expect....
    1 point
  18. Guys ! Forget all the expensive HA crap . Raspberry pi is where it’s at !
    0 points
  19. Ooooooo, you bad boy ......
    0 points
  20. Sadly no, I have a triangular window that sits above the patio door and above this are the steels that hold the masonry.
    0 points
  21. But the OP is in Shropshire, last I looked that was not in Scotland ?
    0 points
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