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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/16/20 in all areas

  1. You don't need to notify them of starting. If you make any changes and decide to go back in for a revised permission during the build, check that they haven't introduced the CIL in the meantime, and check that you won't be caught out second time round (this won't be a problem if you go back with a non-material amendment or to vary the conditions). I expect that the few remaining councils not applying it will be doing it very quickly to plug some gaps in their finances!
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  2. Yeah. The remote via the app with Synology is pretty good. Also remote access to my server directly with security spy seems good. Haven't tried direct with the NAS yet remotely. But so far it's all looking pretty good and stable. Lots and lots of things to setup and play with in due course; but for now I should probably focus on finishing the house build a bit more!
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  3. Sounds like you got further in a morning than I've managed in several weeks with BlueIris so that's very promising (not that I've put a lot of focused effort in yet..) I forgot a nice thing with Synology is it will get a cert from let's encrypt for you, and then it should be good to go for various remote accesses you want to do with it. Certainly should be much simpler than setting this up for remote access to windows which I'm not looking forward to at all.
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  4. Well! I set my Synology DS1019+ up! 1 drive for nvr ( so no raid or anything) the other 4 for shr. Only just realised that the 4 drive as shr will only allow for 1 drive failure. AFAIK I need to unmount those 4 drives. Physically remove a drive. Set them up as shr (just the 3 now). Then add the 4th drive and magically shr-2 (2 drive failure) will be supported. There's nothing on those NAS drives so not an issue. 2 camera's continually streaming seems to cause very little cpu load. Ram used is around 6%, cpu sits at around 9%. So it's good to know the system isn't straining. The camera's are streaming at 4MP. I intended at least another 2. Synology DSM software seems pretty decent - certainly better than some dedicated NVR stuff. Not without a few issues which seem to be browser based ( worked fine in Chrome, then live view didn't; swapped to Safari and it seems perfect - though it suggests swapping to Chrome!). Remote viewing via the app seems pretty good. Though I need to fiddle with it to improve performance. Also have security spy on my HA mac - this provides an interface to the HA. So I can 'do something' when motion etc. is triggered. Both camera's are Hikvision. The Hikvision DS-2CD2563G0-IS/B seems maybe problematic .
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  5. Does this help. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/heat-emission-radiators-d_272.html
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  6. Someone must have done this before. Google found.. https://makezine.com/projects/pimometer-raspberry-pi-remote-temperature-sensor/ Uses four thermocouples. Has Github page with the code. But needs an add on PCB you would have to make. Not sure if you can buy that. Says it's based on a Max31855 board which is probably a single thermocouple?
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  7. I don't know, I would have to look. The arduino connects to the pc used to program it via USB with a simulated serial port and that is what you normally use to read out data. I used one for my PV dump controller and if I want to see what it's doing I just open a terminal screen with PuTTY. I have my old, almost falling to bits ubuntu laptop now pretty much sitting there dedicated to that. EDIT: Here you are, arduino wifi https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/ArduinoUnoWiFi
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  8. I would not use a Pi for this, I would use an Arduino. But that is more because I am familliar with the Arduino. You will buy an arduino for less than £10 and the programmign software is a free downloadl Here is an example to get you started https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/TheGadgetBoy/ds18b20-digital-temperature-sensor-and-arduino-9cc806 To view the temperatures on a pc screen you can use the serial monitor built into the arduino programing package, but better would be to use PuTTY but in this case as a serial terminal emulator (PuTTY is very versatile)
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  9. I don't think there is a 1Wire sensor that goes that high, more usual to use a thermocouple, and then you are into ADC and extra hardware. I don't understand software, but I think that with Python, it is normal to write little scripts that spew out just the information you want either to a file or a display. Our mate Ed Davies is the Python man, may be worth giving him a shout by email. You get the sensor number by initially interrogating it from the terminal. Everything in Linux is a file, so it shows up as a file. /sys/bus/1w/devices Bit of a faff initially, but easier than writing something to automatically find it. There is OWFS that I think connects the DS18b20 via the USB port and does a lot of the hard work. I think TerryE knows about these. The DS18b20 are, when working at the extreme ends of there temp scale i.e over about 70°C a bit flakey, so you need to keep an eye on that and reject false readings. To give you an idea, I have some stuck in the ground and out of 87750 readings, 40 are false. Not bad, but that is working within the normal range i.e. 0°C to 30°C.
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  10. If you are not bothered about logging the temperatures, how about ones of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inside-Outdoor-Home-Electronic-Hygrometer-Thermometer-Precision-Tester-x-1/174205919478 But if you really want to use a PC to display it on, then SSH (connect) to the RPi with PuTTY (the software on the PC). Your code on the RPi will look something like this: #!/usr/bin/python #imports necessary libaries import os, time, datetime #load drivers os.system('modprobe w1-gpio') os.system('modprobe w1-therm') while True: #Sort out the time format dt = datetime.datetime.now() runday = dt.day dt.day == runday #sensor 1 tfile = open("/sys/bus/w1/devices/28-030697945754/w1_slave") text1 = tfile.read() tfile.close() temperature_data1 = text1.split()[-1] temperature1 = float(temperature_data1[2:]) temperature1 = temperature1 / 1000 #opens and reads the time ts = time.time() #sets time to UTC and dd/mm/yyyy hh:mm:ss format UTC = datetime.datetime.utcfromtimestamp(ts).strftime('%d/%m/%Y %H:%M:%S') logfile = '/home/pi/monitoring/data/temperatures/1wire-%s-%s-%s.csv' % (dt.day, dt.month, dt.year) #creates and opens or appends data to file tfile = open(logfile, "a") #writes to data file tfile.write("%s"%UTC + ",%s"%temperature1 + '\n') #closes data file tfile.close print (temperature1) #sleeps for (n) seconds until next reading time.sleep(29) The "28-030697945754" is the sensor number and will have to be changed to whatever sensor number you need.
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  11. Not a lot, however it's slightly more efficient to run a gas boiler central heating circuit at a lower temperature so bigger radiators will allow you to do that . If the return is below 50 degrees (ish) you get the boiler running in condensing mode.
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  12. @SuperJohnG That is incredibly helpful, thank you. We are about to start the footings. The heating etc is therefore theoretical at this stage but about to become very real later this year, hence my looking at it in more detail now. The building will be as airtight as I can get it, and has been certified (on paper at this stage) as meeting building regs, but an overall Uvalue is not stated (it's split into the component parts of the build with a score for each). I will of course be going as far as I can to ensure very good airtightness and insulation throughout the build, but not to passive standards. @Conor thanks very much. I will look at some of the products you and @SuperJohnG have recommended.
    1 point
  13. I don't understand the differences. Generally as ASHP will run with a CoP of 2.8. So 31 kWh/m2.year X 190m2 = 5893 kWh/year 5893 [kWh/year] / 2.8 [CoP] = 2104 kWh/year (this is the electricity consumption for the same thermal output) It is kWh, not KwH, or KWH, or kwh, or kw/h
    1 point
  14. As to whether noggins are required: This from the British Gypsum White Book.
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  15. Normally you start the ICF one course below DPC level on top of your footings. You'd then use water proofer in your concrete for the below ground block and first course of ICF. This acts as your dpc. If your Brockie has no experience of using ICF, you're probably much better teaching yourself online and doing that part of the work. It's not at all like block laying.
    1 point
  16. You get about a 1/3 m out of the pump lines when they clean them through @Adam2, a good idea is to have someplace to put it, shutter up a box for the chicken coup to sit on or make a base for the wheelie bins, I have 3 posts that hold up our carport that sit on concrete pads, so pre dug some very rough holes ready for the overspill. You need to nominate a washdown area for the pump guy, plastic on the floor with a sheet of ply on top so it’s easy to shovel up the mess. Its all relatively straight forward with a bit of planning.
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  17. I've always gone with GIA - no wonder @nod built his so cheap his walls are 4m wide! haha
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  18. Yes. If this was part of a new house Building Control Approval would be needed for the whole house and the Building Control Officer would require railings (with a minimum height and spacing). He would probably also insist on proper access eg steps or a door. If the neighbour just claims its to provide shade in the garden and doesn't fit railings, steps or an access door then I don't think Building Control Approval is required either. If he later starts using it as a terrace/decking you might have a hard time getting Building Control to take an interest. It depends how proactive they are in your area. There isn't much funding for their department and they are reluctant to initiate legal proceedings if someone just ignores the regulations. It would be a different matter if it was a hotel or similar.
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