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Is there such a thing as too many? I was looking at some pictures on here for how the UFH manifold is temporarily supported (installing mine at the weekend) and noticed that on all the images there is a distinct lack of mesh castles? I thought i needed to put in enough to stop it flexing too much whilst walking on it - i think now that i may have been overzealous?

This is a great idea, I have searched quite a lot but it can be struggle to get all the info, hence following @LA3222s raft execution very closely to make sure I don't miss anything. @LA3222 I have to take the time to commend you, doing an absolutely brilliant job and the fact that you take the time to share it with us is mega helpful for me and others who will be doing the same. Really helps demystify the process and gives a confidence boost to me that it can be done. Well done to you and the missus so far and thanks again.

Been foil taping mad. Done top room reveal: builder left me with not enough either side of window, to line the reveal (sides) with even 25mm PIR > pB over. So my plan is cut a 25mm PIR in half (tricky) > foam fix it to the foiled reveal sides > pB with long drywall screws, thru PIR, into timber. Is this a good plan? I just can't deal with plastic-lining the upstairs room, let alone both (its a job too much for just me).. so tried to foil really well instead. Foil job alone took me 2 days. I did look at one screwfix sheet roll but couldn't see it properly, so couldn't guage how tricky the job might be.

This question has been asked a lot regarding services and slabs. I wonder if we could get a list of all the things to go in before the concrete is poured, and keep it somewhere on the site as a reference guide. @AnonymousBosch because I know your not that busy really.

No he just keeps drawing options with screed - you don’t need to use it ..! There are loads of wet floor overlay options - if I get chance I’ll ring Wunda tomorrow and speak to Andy and see what he suggests. Other option is the Fermacell floor system over the track panels. Again, not cheap but works well.

At the very least I can thank you for your kind contribution . (And I amended my poor phrasing too.)

yes, Ferdinand. I did know that. Hence trying to squeeze a few extras under the one fee ?.

Back in the Spring I posted a planned design for a refurbishment of my main family bathroom. This is now 96% complete, and this is the After video. AFTER

Yep it’s called an Armeg DL100B4IG SDS Plus Drive Adaptor for Square Cutter Amazon, £10

I spy bog roll.....

I have had this chat with our security providers at work as they do domestic work as well as commercial. For domestic alarms that do not need to be linked to monitored services to report to the emergency services they now mainly fit wireless systems. Every installer will recommend what they are familiar with but Pyronix enforcer, Texecom premier elite and Visonic PowerMaster are all well known branded wireless systems which could be fitted by a diyer. I chose the visonic powermaster basically because the remotes look good and the touch screen pad looks modern/hi tech so the system is pretier really ? I paid for mine to be installed as the other half wanted it done asap (recent break ins). My friend looked at my system and bought the same. It is connected to the phone line and can dial two (maybe more)numbers to report activations, low battery power and mains failure. I have just bought the add on to allow internet access which does upon up the possibility of paying a subscription for monitoring but we wont use it for this. We use the remote controls rather than a fob or code. The detached garage is partitioned so can be armed disarmed separately. You can arm it as home so the perimeter is set but internal sensors are not which allows free movement around the home with the alarm set. Sensors can also activate a voice but we have this turned off. If I am working in the garage the alarm will keep shouting out, "GARAGE" everytime movement is detected. I was told to stay away from the cheap stuff like Yale ect as like everything, you get what you pay for. One of the three systems should be a few hundred pounds if bought by yourself. Hope that helps or if you need anymore info ask away. I am not an expert on alarms BTW, just played around with a few systems and pick the brains of our guys.

I used a short bit of 22mm pipe on the softener end of each valve, fitted with compression 22mm to 3/4" BSPM fitting, to accept the fitting on the end of full bore 3/4" flexis.

Donald! Keep the ducklings indoors, Russel's doing the Highland Fling again! Apologies for mis-spelling your name Russ. Artistic licence ?

Yes, In a previous life I had a small holding and breed geese and other things, I love geese and may even get some fir here (when I have finished my 1001 other jobs ?)

You’re actually right there! I was brought up on a small holding and we had a flock of geese, vicious buggers, I once got a sore peck from the gander when I came home from school and went into the field to look for my mother!

Go on then, dare ya. I might do one of my little illustrations too.... ?

Sorry I though it was the diameter circumscribed by the hem of the kilt when spinning just before a radians / second rate is reached that would allow an average height person standing at a swooning distance, normally considered 2m, to confirm just what it actually worn under the kilt. I could draw A diagram...

we used to do this but direct the “blast” into a galvanised dustbin laid on its side ..... Swear to god I’ve heard less noise from a 105mm field gun ...

The rules are different under Scottish regs. We have to provide a "circulation space" of either a 1500mm diameter circle or a 1400mm by 1800mm elipse in a kitchen. That effectively means two opposing runs of kitchen units cannot be less than 1400mm apart. No doubt the English building regs are different, that is where you have to look.

It’s a Scottish thing ... Not required south of the border.

I would have thought essential to ensure positive pressure to each patient to prevent cross infection?

https://www.insidehook.com/daily_brief/history/how-isaac-newton-made-social-distancing-work-for-him "...in 1665 when Newton — then a student — went through his own period of social distancing. This was during the time of the Great Plague of London. Newton left Cambridge and returned to his family’s home in Cambridge, where he had long stretches of time to work alone on various questions that had been on his mind. While there, he had a breakthrough regarding the nature of motion and gravity — a narrative you might already be familiar with. But that wasn’t all that Newton accomplished in isolation. According to Brockell’s article, Newton came up with vital early theories of both optics and calculus during this period."

@Dreadnaught the red sheet is visqueen radon membrane. My village is ln a list with the local authority where passive radon protection is required - so radon membrane but no need for sump/pump. Joints are done as per the manufacturer's instructions, minimum 150mm overlap, double sided jointing tape 50mm in from edge then single sided tape over the top of the overlap. I used visqueen products for all of it. The double sided tape is good but keep it warm. The single sided not so good. It appears to come off after a while so not 100% stuck down. I think @MikeSharp01 highlighted this issue in another thread. Incidentally I ran out of the single sided so in haste bought some similar stuff from screwfix, cheaper and seemed to adhere far better. The missus preferred using that! Penetrations, I bought some top hats but didn't use them. Reason being is that the soil pipes I left in place have a socket on top which I'd have to cut off to get the top hat over (in hindsight put the pipe through it before installing the pipe?) so I left the missus to patch the hole created with another bit of membrane and loads of tape. I left her to do the corners too - pita! I intend to wrap some foam around the pipes at FFL and just below so if I need to fit a junction socket over it at floor level there will be room for the socket to go on once I've dug the foam out. Two of the stacks will require this. I left the sockets on because I have caps which fit in them and will stop crud going in so its convenient to leave as is for now. Bonding EPS I used Soudal Low Expansion foam - in hindsight I should have bought loads in bulk from somewhere as I used a lot of cans which I hadn't considered. Kept going to screwfix everytime I ran out so probably spent more than I should have on it. I reckon I probably got through 20 cans, I'll have to check. I'm in the Lincolnshire Wolds. It has been hard work and draining, would I do it again - yes, just not in storm season. The weather was probably the thing that kept morale low. I enjoy working on site when its sunny as it's so nice in the countryside, but trying to lay the membrane in Storm Jorge was a particular low point? All good now.

Neat...looks like a bloody CAD rendering! ?

NEC Contract? Option B? It's remeasurable. I would push for a lump sum/ activity schedule (Option A). Risks I see are: Site clearance is an allowance. If more than one day, this will increase per day by the sum. Grab load allowance - As above for the allowance, how much is a grab load? I would want a lump sum for this and the site clearance. How much vege' are they clearing? Reduced level dig - Is the site already level? i.e. a scrape with a bucket. Or is the site signifcantly undulating? If it's flat then I would ditch this and go with a single JCB + driver for a 2 days at around £1500 allowance. Also, is the 200m3 correct? = 500m2 clearance area for 400mm. Spoil removal is 80m3 - What they doing with the other 120m3? Is that the trim formation level? i.e. landscaping. Drainage and water supply look OK for risk. Prices seem reasonable but I'm not Cambridge based so won't claim to know. Off-site drainage - This can vary a lot and depends on your site plan. Does it include traffic management etc? Off-site services - That doesn't look unreasonable to me as a sum. And you look fairly protected from risk, it'll only change if the meterage goes up. It's always worth getting them out to site first so they can measure up themselves and take decisions. That way, if they argue a change then you have the security that they had a site visit to include these things and price accordingly, which places it as ther cost.

Yep and it works fantastically. Zero risk of it toppling out with a very simple clamp bar to the feet.

Why worry, you will only piss off your nasty neighbours anyway ?. I use all sorts of power tools in my workshop (including routers, planer/thichnessers etc) and have no sound insulation and a single skin tin roof.

Ooops. Granny. Eggs. Sucking. Sorry. Must have been the tray of eggs I am hoarding. I could allege that it wasn't clear from your original post and I still claim my 15% since I still did the work, and answered the other question too - this is construction? ??

I don't like those either ?

Us men have a very responsible position, if anything goes wrong, we are responsible ?

Here it is, actually it is a very interesting Engineering problem, but the principles are clear enough - nothing like as artistic as yours though.

geese is what they used in rome 2000years ago

I get mine of a lad in the pub, Jonny the hood, ex bank robber turned good, he has a good selection from little sawn offs you can get under your jacket to unrestricted 7 shot pump ups. Cash only.

@Ferdinand goes "stir" crazy due to self isolation.

You see Russ, two Jocks, each wearing a kilt have to be able to dance a Highland Fling in the kitchen..... no need daan sarf is there? The circulation refers to the arc described by a sporran when it's flinging, mate. I mean just imagine what would happen if two sporrans collided at speed. Phwaarrrr, don't bear finkin abaart does it?

Tempted to get a big dog, so we have something to eat at week 4.