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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/08/19 in all areas

  1. Still adding insulation ? Cabin_11_08_2019 3_29_46am.mp4
    3 points
  2. My wife and myself moved 10 ton of Stone for the Gabion baskets in the light to heavy rain It took us about 5 hours to move it 30 mtrs Bit a funny size hard going shovelling My wife put most in by hand Surprising how Quik the pile goes down The following week we had 20 ton of sand to move More volume but easy going
    2 points
  3. Good news! I today obtained planning permission and so I am starting my build blog. Thanks to everyone on BuildHub for your help and support so far. I have already learnt so much from this forum, all the way from questions when I was viewing the plot and every stage since. And an especial thanks to all the Buidlhubers that I have had the pleasure to visit so far. You have all been warm and welcoming and your advice and inspiration has been invaluable. Thank you! Thank you! My plot is in Cambridge, quite central, near the banks of the river Cam, just behind a row of college boathouses. It is opposite an ancient common and in a Conservation Zone. It is a garden plot that constituted the end of the long garden of a large late Victorian villa. Access is from a narrow access road (not owned by anyone) which runs behind the the boathouses. The plot itself sits behind a mature horse chestnut tree, whose roots I must preserve. The plot is is about 300 m² and is in flood zone 2. The dwelling will be a modern bungalow, 2-bedrooms, near passive house, with a green roof and clad in buff brick slips. Here is the timeline until today: 10/3/18, first visited the plot, advertised in Rightmove as a house. 13/4/18, my offer to buy it was accepted. 24/4/18, I made my first visit to BuildHuber to start my long learning journey 29/4/18, visited my second Buildhuber 31/5/18, the plot already had planning approval but before buying it I started a process for a re-design with the seller 4/7/18, visited my third Buildhuber 26/7/18, visited my fourth Buildhuber (and watched her build, with five additional visits to date) 19/8/18, visited my fifth Buildhuber 6/9/18, I finalised price negotiations with the vendor 18/9/18, plot topographic survey 26/11/18, submitted for planning permission 17/12/18, completed on the purchase of the plot 7/1/19, planning application formally accepted by council 11/2/19, visited my sixth Buildhuber 26/2/19, consultations revealed I needed to redesign the pitched roof to be a flat green roof to meet SUDS requirements 12/3/19, met the tree officer with my arboriculturalist on site 30/3/19, taking advantage of a neighbouring development having the road open, I installed a temporary electricity supply to the plot 2/4/19, engineers supplied drainage calculations including green roof 6/6/19, vendor approved the revised design with flat roof (deed's required it) 20/6/19, visited my seventh Buildhuber 29/7/19, visited my eighth Buildhuber 23/8/19, visited my ninth Buildhuber 19/9/19, council advised that my application is scheduled for the 2 October planning meeting 24/9/9, council advise that my application was bumped to the 6 November planning meeting 6/11/19, planning application approved unanimously, with two councillors choosing to comment that they particularly liked the design. One objector spoke against. Next step: build a house …
    2 points
  4. A few of us have the Hudson Reed Reign: https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-reign-triple-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-round-plate-rei3411? A simple, thermostatic bar mixer is easier to replace though.
    1 point
  5. I was on a course last weekend and they showed us this.
    1 point
  6. What permission is this? if you are not in a conservation area and the trees are not covered by a tree preservation order then no consent is required check the site has no other planning restrictions and your good to go.
    1 point
  7. I’m on a train so can’t get the actual number, but it’s a middle sized EDLQ (I think, so will confirm when back). It’s split with the external part in the garden maybe 30 metres away. Only used in winter primarily for ufh and secondarily for the low temp Sunamps.
    1 point
  8. The most recent we had were 40 no. @ 435kN SWL
    1 point
  9. We filled our hedgehog home with hay but he still took in mouthfulls of leaves. They're never happy unless they can tweak things a bit, must be catching.
    1 point
  10. I'd have had it passing through a noggin.
    1 point
  11. @SteamyTea - yes this is available as an API. They publish the rates a day in advance so you can schedule in any automations / predict / charge your 'stores' accordingly. If you don't want to program I believe they also have an integration with IFTTT. API documentation - https://developer.octopus.energy/docs/api/ Alternatively they have an E7 'like' tariff with 'GO', primarily aimed at EV drivers which gives you 4 hours of 5p leccy between 12.30 and 4.30am and then an approx 14p/kWh day rate
    1 point
  12. Ply, jigsaw and sticky tape.
    1 point
  13. About £120 for 10m of 12x12x0.91 polished 304 angle.
    1 point
  14. I went for Keep It Simple Stupid. Simple thermostat in each room. AND a conventional boiler programmer to schedule when the heating is on and when it is off. Ours is on all day and off at night. That is mainly because I want a silent house at night and even the gentle hum of a circulating pump is too noisy so it all goes off at night. Others do the opposite if they have E7 and have the heating only running at night. It was a "challenge" to integrate a standard boiler programmer into the system. If you did it all according to manufacturers instructions you would just use the programmer that came with the ASHP but although it can do timing functions, it is a fiendishly complicated thing to set up and does not do any of the nice normal programmer functions like advance, or timed boost etc. So I chose not to use the inbuilt timer functions and instead fit a separate more conventional programmer.
    1 point
  15. For neatness and getting it up out of the way of vermin I'd clip it and just drop down to each position. If ever you decide to add more lights the hole saw might "find" the cable if laid atop the soffit board! Makes if easier adding stuff if not clipped though.
    1 point
  16. Next we'll see a roll of airtightness tape in his mouth …
    1 point
  17. Get the temperatures sorted, then obsess about the flow temperatures.
    1 point
  18. I believe the roof light over 150mm issue would mean planning permission is required. However... Would the converted garage and roof light meet the rules for a side extension? Eg It would it be less than 4m high (3m within 2m of the boundary)? If so then you could demolish the garage and rebuild it as a side extension under permitted development. I'm not suggesting you do that but it means it would be hard for the planners to refuse permission for what you actually do want to do. If you just went ahead without planning permission I think they would be unlikely to initiate enforcement action unless there was a complaint buy a neighbour. If a neighbour was to complain the planners might feel obliged to initiate enforcement action but you could at that point submit a retrospective planning application. My guess is it would be waived through because they know you could build what you want by knocking down the garage and rebuilding it under the rules for a side extension. One option would be to apply for a CLD to knock the garage down and rebuild it within the permitted development rules for a side extension. They would not be able to refuse this. Then instead of knocking it all down just do the conversation you want. The end result would match the drawings submitted with the CLD.
    1 point
  19. It's all getting a lot closer ?
    1 point
  20. Usual, in Devon, to mention you have a gun, I think.
    1 point
  21. I haven’t decided on a board yet, but whatever it is will be taped and jointed and a fst applied look up level 5 finish on drywall, too many people over here think you need to skim to get a good finish, what utter rubbish do you think a $5 million house in the states has a poor finish because they don’t wet plaster.
    1 point
  22. Next up is an update on the UFH. We’ve got one loop done today but now we are going out for lunch with friends so I doubt I’ll get any more done today. I am really impressed with these cutters, they don’t deform the pipe at all ??
    1 point
  23. I’d be afraid a half inch sand cement screed would just crack and break off. It’s too thin. Then the issue with the levelling compound is if the floor is damp that won’t last either. If the floor isn’t damp and doesn’t have a door with water getting in (ie where rain is coming in onto to the floor like some outbuildings) then this, while more expensive, is probably the best option. Another option if the existing floor is fairly good concrete would be to hire a large grinder and just grind down the existing floor making it flat. This would be the strongest most durable finish but my only concern with this is you’re floor might be so rough it could take a long time to grind flat and smooth.
    1 point
  24. Something I have been wanting to do for a while is see how air tight I have managed to make the house, but without paying £hundreds for an official test. So take one old desk fan. Some bits of wood. A large piece of cardboard and a roll of duct tape. The first thing was just to run the fan on full speed and go around the house looking for leaks. I found a leak under the front door where it was not sealed to the floor properly. A leak in the loft at a tricky detail between the ridge beam and the OSB cladding, and a leak around where the mains comes in and cables go out under the floor. All fixed with a bit more tape and detailing. So now I have a house where there is no perceivable leaks coming in anywhere. The flow going out of the fan seems very small, and it's certainly holding a good pressure (if you open a door you can feel the rush of air enter, and hear the fan note change as it is no longer working hard) Time to try and measure something? Firstly the pressure. Normally an air tightness test is done at 50Pa. It was only when I looked up the conversion I realised that's a tiny pressure, about 2mm water gauge. So I set up my manometer, one side connected to "outside" the other side vented to the room. It's very hard to accurately measure 2mm on a U tube manometer, but I am sure it was somewhere between 2 and 3mm. So in the right order. How to measure the airflow? Simple. Just measure the air flow rate through the fan. Well my little anemometer would not register the wind speed entering the fan, it was too low to get it's impeller turning. So I had to do something to increase, the airflow. Decrease the area, AKA the "flower pot" principle. I didn't have a 15" flower pot, so I made one. The hole in the "top" is 110mm (because a bit of drain pipe was handy to draw around) Now the air flow was high enough to measure. 2.9 metres per second. A 110mm diameter hole has an area of 0.038 M2 So that gives a volumetric flow of 0.11M3 per second That's 6.6 M3 per minute or 396M3 per hour. Now my house has a volume of 480 M3 So that equates to 0.825 Air changes per hour. I'm actually a little disappointed with that. I had hoped for better. But let's not kid ourselves that this was in any way an accurate measurement. At least it enabled me to find and fix a couple of air leaks, and I am now reasonably certain there are no air leaks of significance. Feel free to tear the method or results to pieces.
    1 point
  25. For info/inspiration here's something that I'm just in the process of finishing up - my garden shoffice (half shed, half office) Wall construction was (inside to out) - - 11mm OSB - Multifoil insulation (I was curious to see how well it worked..) - 4x2 stud filled with 100mm Knauf Ekoroll - 9mm OSB - Breather membrane - Horizontal batterns - Vertical cladding (gravel boards "good" side facing out) (there should be more air gaps and such, but it's a shed at the end of the day...!) Roof is EPDM on 18mm OSB, 4x2s @ 600 centers, mix of ekoroll and celotex, 11mm OSB internal finish Floor is 18mm OSB on 6x2s @ ~400 centers. Ekoroll supported by breather membrane looped over the joists Costs add up surprisingly quickly but saved money by sourcing all the joists from a nearby bungalow that was being scalped and turned into a house - the builder said it's a shame as it all treated, slow grown, dead straight wood but because it isn't graded he has to burn it or skip it. All the joist wood cost me £20 + labour for denailing etc. Smallest 9000btu ASHP for heating Still needs some finishing touches and another coat of paint/stain (Cuprinol Shades) but otherwise it's probably very close to what you're trying to achieve.
    1 point
  26. If you ever find me on a golf course you have my consent to give me a swift kick in the rollocks
    0 points
  27. It would be a b-word... but not that one ... ?
    0 points
  28. I think it was more like thermal moss ?
    0 points
  29. he’ll be adding “thermal mass”
    0 points
  30. Like Highlander, there can be only one. An MP might have one going cheap .. er .. quack. Though the rumour is the ducks boycotted it. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/mps-expenses/5357568/MPs-expenses-Sir-Peter-Viggers-claimed-for-1600-floating-duck-island.html As it happens I am a distant acquaintance of the Deputy Duck Warden in the village of Foolow in Derbyshire, who does the work. The Head Duck Warden is (if still standing), Lady Morris of Castle Morris, who is the widow of Lord Morris of Castle Morris - a member of the House of Lords who bought Foolow Manor to "decline and die in". He has now declined and died.
    0 points
  31. I've got it. Do an exact mini copy of your house. I once did it for a dog kennel. They loved it so much, they got me to do another for the pool changing room.
    0 points
  32. As a rule of thumb, cubic metre of air has a mass of 1.2 kg. The energy needed to heat 1 kg of air by 1 K is 1 kJ. There are 1000 litres in 1 m3. There are 3600 seconds in an hour. 6 [lt.s-1] / 1000 = 0.006 m3.s-1 0.006 [m3.s-1] / 1.2 = 0.0072 kg.s-1 0.0072 [kg.s-1 ] x 3600 = 25.92 kg.hour-1 To convert from kJ to kWh multiply by 0.0002778 25.92 x 0.0002778 = 0.0075 kWh I have skipped the conversion to kJ as air has a SHC of 1 (near enough), though there will be some energy in the moisture) This gives you a loss of 0.0075 kWh for every K, or °C, temperature rise, for every hour the fan is running. So taking the 20°C temperature difference in your example, to run that fan for 24 hours will be: 0.0075 [kWh] x 20 [K] x 24 [h] = 3.46 kWh
    0 points
  33. A guy I knew at university worked in Barbados for several years as a boat builder/repairer. I think he sailed back to Falmouth in a boat he build. I often wonder why he came back.
    0 points
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