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Are you sure it’s not the same mice returning, my dad did the same thing and in the end he painted all the mice he caught to confirm they weren’t returning, lots of mice running around the country with little white Mohican haircuts.

Ask @pocster, he knows a thing or two about cheap glazing.

Glass bricks?

Oddly enough I picked up a tip from a joiner today. Go to your local double glazing window company and ask to see their "graveyard" where all the wrong size / damaged / rejected windows are stacked up. Find one about the right size and start haggling. You can sometimes get a bargain.

How about incorporating the glass door from a defunct washing machine? Makes a nice smugglers window...if you've a small head...

How about D4 wood glue, since using it on my floorboards I’m finding uses for it everyday, will tear the wood fibre apart before you separate the batten from it.

I've used the fischer fixings on woodfibre board and they are pretty good and surprisingly strong.

Missed this earlier. Trickle ventilation shouldn't be anything near 2 ACH, probably more like about 0.2 to 0.3 ACH at a rough guess. We ventilate our house at about 0.45 ACH and find that keeps the air nice and fresh, but the heat loss penalty for that ventilation rate is small, as about 85% to 90% of the heat is recovered by the MVHR system.

Just fitted Moduleo Transform LVT upstairs in new house. Classic Oak I am going to have the same downstairs. Have LVT in my existing house. Been down for 11 years & looks as good as when new. Check the wear layer depth.

Canyon grey oak. Wearing well actually. I refurbed the w/c before renovating and had it exposed to all the elements as sub trades. Got some black bit pain on came off easy enough. No marks that i've noticed but I think the colour and pattern helps with that.

I think the info was by me , originally from ebuild. The useful info can be found in a thread called "Wetroom in Kore slab". On the question of mat wells, we have porcelain tile floors directly laid on a poured MBC slab and we created matwels using standard metal tile edging strips, which us matwells approx 15mm deep, which is sufficient for entrance mats. The suitable matting can be bought by the metre to suit

Certainly is - ours sprouted into teenagers shortly after we moved in and we didn't see each other for months

I have no experience of the solar ones but the wiring for Integra is simply a 3 pin plug at one end and smaller pre-wired plug the window end, with very long cable inbetween. So no need for an electrician, just routing the wire under the plasterboard. IIRC if you want electric blinds on the solar ones then you end up with 2 remote controls. With Integra it's all on 1 remote.

Click Mode are my favourite. Schneider are also pretty good. Even Crabtree are still pretty good though their style may not excite. And I have not had any issues with Hager switches either.

I need a bro like this ?

Which raises a valid point, in that the steady state heat loss rate doesn't automatically define the heating power requirement. There needs to be sufficient excess heating power available to be able to bring the space up to a comfortable temperature within a reasonable period of time. This depends to a significant degree on the heat capacity, and thermal conductivity, of the materials that make up the first 50 to 100mm of the internal structure (ceiling, floor, walls etc). Assuming a plasterboard ceiling, concrete floor and plastered or dot'n'dab boarded walls, then the internal fabric heat capacity could be anything from about 4 to 10 kWh for a 10°C temperature change. If the room started off 10°C cooler than desired, then significantly more heat input will be required initially in order to get the internal fabric up to temperature.

I would use the full inside air/outside air temp difference for the floor as the full heatloss path is floor-soil-outside air. Allow about 30% of fabric heatloss for thermal bridging. Ventilation heat loss is Volume of structure (m3 ) x air changes per hour x temperature difference (°C) x 0.3 Watts Remember you are an 80W heat source and the office equipment will contribute The size of the heater will more likely be determined by providing a reasonable heat from cold performance than steady state loss. So a 2kW fan heater will probably do.

"Naasah, yer wunt 10kW mate ... 's wot vey all 'ave round yur...... 10kW - at least."

During our build i picked up a load of samples of engineered oak at a self build show. When I got home and put them in natural light I found a very wide difference. They all looked good at the show but some were virtually orange at home. Shop around for appearance as well as price. Perhaps even buy one pack to lay out in the room. You can buy it ready finished or unfinished for you to paint yourself. We got ours prefinished but if you do the latter I recommend Osmo hard wax oil. Also consider the orientation carefully (across or along the room).

Don't know...the 2 module wide ones are £100+.