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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/12/19 in all areas

  1. Use WeTransfer it's a doddle. I use it all the time. https://wetransfer.com/ Your email, his email, upload to 2GB. Recipient has 7 days to download. You don't need to even zip the 260MB.
    4 points
  2. 25mm of XPS underneath UFH will give a floor U value of around 1.2 W/m².K, so with the floor surface at, say, 26°C, a room temperature of 21°C and an underfloor ground temperature of 8°C then the heat loss into the ground will be about 42%. 26°C is not a particularly high floor temperature for UFH, either. It equates to a power output, for the conditions above, of about 52 W/m².
    2 points
  3. I'm sure that would depend on the individual planners, and the people who might wish to draw it to their attention. I've known people to get away with fairly significant alterations- e.g. a house where the builders omitted the dwarf walls from the founds, which meant that no internal walls could be load bearing, and subsequently the roof structure had to be altered, changing the house from one and a half storey to two storey. This raised the ridge line above what they had permission for, blocking sea views for the houses behind, and annoying the neighbours a fair deal. Not everyone really believed it was a mistake at all. But the house is still standing. Anyway, do you really want to go down the route of having diagonal cladding?? It's going to be more work and more wastage.
    1 point
  4. It is worth zipping and encrypting just as good practice.
    1 point
  5. Ha ha Thanks How could we ever get board of On Off
    1 point
  6. If you spec your render board it will give you fixing guide. I used plastic packers as @Mr Puntersuggested. Get your first row straight and the rest will take care of itself. External corners need to be staggered corners, one long on one side and short on the next side and then do the opposite on the next row up, easy peasy lemon squeezy
    1 point
  7. Keep the tips coming son! I need every damn one of them. ?
    1 point
  8. The spec on mine was a gap with a dpc behind so if I had done what your render said it would have slit the dpc!!
    1 point
  9. Cheers @nod, saved me telling him it's over. ?
    1 point
  10. You are my new best mate @nod !! ? Was getting bored of @Onoff anyway ?
    1 point
  11. A local joiner has just made and fitted a staircase for me. The glass balustrade is 'bolted' to the stringer. The glass is 15mm toughened, there is absolutely no movement or flex in the glass. A small handrail was fitted to the top of the glass which adds some overall rigidity, however the handrail is really intended to keep the glass from getting marked with loads of greasy / sticky finger marks.There are a lot of photos on the joiner's Facebook page, I have attached a link to the photos which give a lot more detail.
    1 point
  12. I believe that they've just had to move some Freeview multiplexes, rather than delete them, so a retune should get the channels back (assuming that the bandwidth of the aerial is wide enough). Freeview was a bit of a disaster for us, as it meant we lost all access to terrestrial TV, when the old analogue service was switched off. The flip side is that we were forced to switch to Freesat in order to continue to receive free-to-air TV. That turned out to be for the best, as the quality of signal, and resolution, we get from Freesat is very good indeed.
    1 point
  13. Pretty stupid tip I wouldn’t use him Apart from it being very slow Why on earth would grind or leave an expansion joint then cover it with render Going off the picture you have posted It looks sot on to me Plenty of fixing Not driven in to far Staggered joints A few small gaps on the joints are not an issue The base coat and mesh will cover them without a problem ?
    1 point
  14. Some (cheap?) stainless screws can be a bit soft and where the bit fits round off easily. Then a pig to get them out if you need to.
    1 point
  15. If you used stainless they will only have a bit of surface rust and should not cause any problems once rendered.
    1 point
  16. If the timber is left a natural colour, the bits you have coated will weather differently, so coat the whole elevation or it may look crap.
    1 point
  17. If from same supplier should use same glass in both as small differences will be noticable. If using different suppliers I would be cautious about having windows on the same side of the building being different to doors -I'm currently going through this conundrum!
    1 point
  18. As long as they are the same colour and general style (modern, traditional etc) they will look fine.
    1 point
  19. Almost all fixings in construction should be of corrosion resistant type unless it is at a point in the building where really water or dampness will be guaranteed non-existent - good luck proving that! This is an issue with a lot of timber construction where they used cheap thin nails, they rot then the frame effectively becomes weak as the thing isn't fixed anymore!
    1 point
  20. The gaps are not very even but should be fine with mesh coat and the render will fill the gaps in any case. You could have used plastic packers. I would not fancy grinding a gap - sounds messy. If this is a "proper" expansion gap going through render and board with the special bead then he may have a point but I have done some fairly large walls without. I think horizontal expansion gaps are more important than vertical on timber frame, but you need a break in the vertical battens to match the expansion gap in the render. As yours is not multi storey I would not bother with any. For fixing I use stainless screws. They react less with other materials and were recommended by Bluclad and other board manufacturers.
    1 point
  21. @patp PP permitted development rules don’t come into play until you’ve finished the main house. Also in order to reclaim the Vat on the garage it would need to be shown on your PP drawings so it would be best to apply for the PP for the garage straight away
    1 point
  22. You normally only need to fire treat cladding if you are building close to the boundary. The closer you are the more of the cladding you need to have fire resistant (requirement is expressed as a % of the facade). BCOs in my experience will accept self-applied surface treatment but they may ask you to provide proof that the fire retardant product that you are using is certified for the purpose. Most BCOs will want a copy of the certification.
    1 point
  23. yes but even if it did it woudl then rest on the wood that sits below the joist. Surely cant be right?
    1 point
  24. I built a detached garage but it was included in the planning application, I built the garage first (under permitted development whilst going to appeal to get planning permission) so I had somewhere for tools and kit on site. Yes it makes sense to pour footings at the same time, can you not amend you’re planning application to include the garage (it will need building regs). edit to note, if your building inspector is as good as ours was, I am sure he will inspect the footings trench at the same time if you tell him you are going to amend you planning application to include a garage.
    1 point
  25. Hmm, shall I believe what looks like a well-researched article in Scientific American which specifically counters this point or…
    1 point
  26. So all you need to do is inform the council planning department that you are "starting" the development and ask them for that comfort letter that they acknowledge the development has started and forward that to the building society. Then everyone should be happy.
    1 point
  27. First you must have discharged any pre commencement planning conditions. In our case our planning as the first condition said we must form the entrance from the road onto the plot before any building work started. you have to notify planning when you "start" so I did by telling them we were starting work creating the entrance to the plot. they replied by email and followed up with a letter confirming that the development had "started" So that alone would have locked in the planning permission forever. You can't start work on building, until you have your building warrant in place. That is a separate application. so what you need to find is something you CAN do that is not building the house, but that the planners will accept as you "starting" the development. It sounds like the formation of your entrance will qualify for that just like ours did. I didn't fill in any form, I just phoned the planners and told them I was starting.
    1 point
  28. These are two separate functions. Building control aren't interested in planning conditions. We are in Scotland as well. I had to separately notify planning and building control that we had started. In my head I had a 7 day notice of start on site, but I'd need to check the paperwork.
    1 point
  29. I’ve had this problem every summer since we moved here in ‘15. Someone must have trimmed a tree as this summer it’s been bearable. Another problem solved cost effectively by complete inaction.
    1 point
  30. BCO has been. We talked for a bit - and I agreed that, anyway, I'd pop a coat of fire protective coating on the North face: £60 or so. And I can DIY. My memory of conversations about the issue was - immediately post Grenfell Tower - that I'd have to have the cladding professionally done, and pressure treated with Non Com. Well, it's no longer made and I can DIY. Head down, arse up keep going Ian.
    0 points
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