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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/02/18 in all areas

  1. Wendy has just reminded me that when I stuck the sample to the window I forgot to peel off the backing, doh! It blew away eventually and I had to recover it and do it properly. Wendy likes to remind me of these little things.
    2 points
  2. https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/MQGasSensors But you could just do it on noise. Or sense the 'strength of grip' on the staining bars.
    2 points
  3. You need to connect the cistern to the extract for that. I did it based on @JSHarris and others designs!
    2 points
  4. Thank you very much for that. Really, really helpful. Email is going in tomorrow! If this doesn't work we might try to reapply for PP without the rear extension, get a new CIL liability and appeal straightaway. Then build the extension under PD or the previous PP.
    1 point
  5. If you ever do try to drill through toughened glass, please video it for my sick pleasure .
    1 point
  6. Happy days. You are now fully qualified. But now I've forgotten what the question was
    1 point
  7. SunAmp's official announcement of their UniQ range is nigh. Its next weekend at the Fully Charged Live show…
    1 point
  8. That might fit with what I was told then. That margins are tight on the windows themselves alone, even if they are concealing a discount from you perhaps its not huge.
    1 point
  9. Another way to get rid of stuff is put it by your gate with a price tag on, say £10 It will probably be gone next morning.
    1 point
  10. We didn't source our windows through the timber frame company (Scotframe) as we wanted integral blinds and they couldn't supply those (at the time anyway). We had no issues at all with the fit (but I admit that your windows look more complex than mine). I understand your motivation for sourcing via the TF company but we had no choice to go elsewhere to get the windows we wanted (they actually cost more, not less as you can imagine with the blinds fitted). If you have a quote of 7k less than the TF company is offering you for essentially the same thing, that's a very big difference and personally I would look into that route further if only to rule it out once and for all. I think (it's a long time ago so struggling to remember plus the hubby dealt with most of it) we got a window schedule from the TF company with all of the measurements. We sent that to the window company, they sent back a detailed schedule of the windows showing sizes, openings, handle position etc that we checked and rechecked, then we asked the TF company to confirm it was ok, and then ordered, and everything was fine. We were a bit anal about the windows as it was important to get right but a 7k difference does leave you with a bit of scope for something to go awry however undesirable. Alternatively could you show the TF company your best quote and ask if they will source via a more competitive company? I'm not sure how much profit the TF companies make on windows TBH. Their main profit must be from the frame itself surely? From reading a couple of threads on here where windows have gone wrong it often seems to be due to the lack of documentation from the window company. If you aren't being provided with a very detailed view of what you have ordered to check and sign off every single aspect of the windows then walk away as this is where things seem to go wrong. And yes @ProDave is right, the timber frame company won't charge you vat as long as they are erecting the frame and fitting the windows. We were supply only so had to pay the vat up front anyway (still waiting for it back lol).
    1 point
  11. What I found with ADW is there is a certain amount of negotiation room, a figure of 5% was once heard to be spoken. YOU have much more of a vested interest to negotiate the maximum discount you can, your timber frame company will not be so bothered. So you negotiate the best deal you can, then give that quote to the TF company and hat is the price they will pay. This is exactly what we did. There are two advantages to getting the TF company to buy them. the first is they will be doing "supply and fit" so if something does not fit, it is their problem to solve. It also means the TF company can charge you at zero VAT. If you bought them you would have to pay the VAT and wait until the end of the build to claim it back.
    1 point
  12. Pictured in this guys blog....compaqfoam https://passivehouseplus.ie/magazine/upgrade/enerphit-upgrade-breathes-new-life-into-dublin-home
    1 point
  13. Is that a tee your referring to? 25mm 'centre' eg 32mm through bore and a 25mm branch coming off at 90o would be called by the two ends first, then the centre, so 32x32x25 If your saying the supply pipe reduces in size then increases again, that needs sorting.
    1 point
  14. Cool. Now all you have to do is wipe that chuffing rise and fall malarky out of your mind and crack the feck on with boarding and tiling. If you stay focussed it can be done for xmas........THIS xmas. Imagine going in there JUST to jump in the bath with a beer and the bluetooth. FOCUS damnit. FOCUS!!!!
    1 point
  15. Keith never once took a tea off me...they'll sit in their truck rather than the site hut and drink from thermos....at this time of year anyway the way to their hearts is ice lollies. I'd agree that you might need the genny less than you imagine, but get caught out on just 2 days for 20 mins use and the hire fess plus time will balance the equation. Buy DECENT 2nd hand and you'll lose next to nothing.
    1 point
  16. If a DC setup is available on the market then those implications will have already been considered and mitigated against in the design of the end equipment ? No consumer should have to consider such safety implications, thats down to the manufacturers is it not?
    1 point
  17. You MUST fill the obvious, and not so obvious voids with the S/C packing first, or the slurry will just drop through. Fill everywhere half full on the first pass and leave for 15 mins. Then go around with a bucket of the S/C mix packing where its obvious the slurry has started disappearing. Leave the first slurry to go a bit harder, prob an hour max, and then go for the final pass. Thats how to be sure you'll get no gaps whatsoever. Necessary to go so nuts? Not sure, but id be doing it if it was my build.
    1 point
  18. This is very interesting for me as well. If I’ve got my PHPP calculations correct (??) then I’m looking at a whopping 35% ‘frequency of overheating’ without blinds, and down to 2% with external blinds. I had an estimate from the same people as @lizzie and was stunned at the cost implications. Our planning approval includes folding arm awnings on the south elevation but we’re not sure if we’ll go with these - we will ensure that they (or a brise solei) can be fitted at a later stage however. Does anyone have experience of using folding arm awnings to prevent unwanted solar gain?
    1 point
  19. I would go for motorised external blinds if they were easy to fit. They would also solve any privacy issues. The film I used reduces the solar gain by around 60% so it is significant but an external blind would be able to stop all solar gain with the option of allowing a certain amount by varying the height of the blind.
    1 point
  20. It is not the same problem; the grid was set up for centralised and coordinated generation. But it may be an interesting way of getting your line upgraded. My biggest load is my kettle, and that is only on for a few seconds. Pre FiTs and the ridiculous 41p/kWh + 5p/kWh deemed export rates, people with PV wanted 'net metering', then it was about 10p/kWh which is close to what we get now. The MCS scheme was not just about payment rates. It was also meant to protect householders from dodgy traders and unsafe installations. May not have worked in all cases, but generally most people are satisfied with their installations. Remember that switching DC is a lot harder than switching AC, and there may be some other safety implications to take into account. You are not dealing with an ELV. https://electrical.theiet.org/media/1425/low-and-extra-low-voltage-direct-current-power-distribution-in-buildings.pdf
    1 point
  21. IMO this is one area not to try and save too much money, as it is 1 so critical 2 so prominent and 3 relatively a big job which would be a pain to redo on big windows. Personally I would want to have an established and ‘likely to still be there in 10 years time supplier’ do all of it including fitting, so there was no ambiguity in future if there was a problem. I think would also place significant weight on people who have had it on their windows for some time, including visiting their houses. Ferdinand
    1 point
  22. I think I may have a solution.....just waiting on some technical feedback. Will let you know.
    1 point
  23. Where is the begrudgingly, face like a smacked arse, you're right as usual emoji? Did the new ones and went over the "old" like you said. Propane/lead free/Templars:
    1 point
  24. I found an exact one meter error (in the placing of one marker) Its a bugger when you pay people to make mistakes for you and then have to check for yourself. But that's this self-building game. A snagging retainer works well too. So far I have (on the basis of evidence) retained £9600. And not a peep from the contractors whose work has needed remediation.
    1 point
  25. Ive got a flat floor wet room, tiles and a linear drain that is tiled. Very sleek. This is on the mbc slab.
    1 point
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