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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/17/18 in all areas

  1. Could do with a few of those in our finance industry!
    2 points
  2. Hi everyone, Just a friendly (and hopeful) request and reminder to those who may not have already completed my survey; I am still looking to hear from those who built or are looking to build there home or homes. I would be most grateful if you could spend a spare 5mins filling it out. It is closing on the 31st of March!! I am a planner (sorry) and student at Birmingham University and my survey is looking to your views on what the benefits, facilitators and challenges of self-build and custom-build housing are. The link is below: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSezNby01KGReNIszG6zYr3kM8kDJgW9sRP4shYUw5uyYUTphw/viewform?usp=sf_link Many thanks in advance!
    2 points
  3. A minute don't sound too bad, but then I live in Cornwall and everything is 20 years behind, except Norfolk.
    2 points
  4. Most people do not read. Especially on a computer screen They skim, pause, read, skim on. STOP at KEY words. Then think and possibly respond. Look at the dense text you present above. You know it inside out and backwards The reader doesn't, and probably doesn't care either. Your message is a high-stakes one. Sent to someone who doesn't give a toss. She has 55 others to read before having a nasty commute home. If it's a high-stakes message, make it visually easy for people to access your message. Thus 1. The architects drawings (above), refer to details under these headings as do the structural drawings and calculations in terms of charring. External walls within 1000mm of a boundary. and are clad with fire cement tiles and are in line with the architects specification the tile specification will be as Marley Thrutone and are rated CLASS 0 as is required within 1000mm of a boundary. Details here. There are loads of other visual tricks to apply. Here's an online resources which, with a few tweaks, will help Make it easily legible to a tired, pissed off, distracted idiot. Make it easy for a local Donald Trump to read.
    2 points
  5. Not knocking the technical prowess and thought gone into it but that looks f****** 'orrible! Had the woman no taste? Did she have you do the ducks on the wall as well?
    2 points
  6. For a minute I thought you were showering with warm beer, I don't know what made me think that.
    1 point
  7. Real men use Swarfega and sand, end of.
    1 point
  8. Our bar mixer shower upstairs: Turn the shower on, hot and cold valves...if lucky it works. If not then barely a trickle. Take the handset off place it in the tray...try again. Turn on the cold and pump kicks in. Turn on the hot. If you're lucky you get a hot, decent shower. If not.....unscrew the shower hose from the bar mixer. Turn on the cold valve, pump kicks in. Turn on the hot. It might work! If not...Place thumb over outlet and sort of press, release, press, release with your thumb. If lucky it'll eventually come out hot. Then fight to get the hose screwed back on.
    1 point
  9. The shower in our static caravan is like that. Solution: Turn the shower on. THEN start getting undressed. By the time you have got your kit off, the warm water has arrived. No time wasted. Same in the morning. I have got to know the point during my shave when it is just the right time to turn the tap on, and as I put my razor away the warm water is just arriving for a wash.
    1 point
  10. @Plumbersmateuk for every 10 litres of paint I’d go with 4 litres of water for the first coat on new plaster. I use Johnstones Jonmat. Mix well.
    1 point
  11. Hi again Firstly I should say that spraying emulsion paint on to interior walls and ceilings is at least semi skilled and That these machines operate at very high pressure therefore can be dangerous if not used properly. Mix the paint in a 30 litre bucket, 20 litres of good quality paint to 6 -8 litres of water, stir with a paddle on a drill for 2-3 minutes. If you do the painting at the optimum point in the order of works this minimises the need for too much masking. I usually just mask the windows and external doors with sticky back film and tape and chuck a dust sheet over any stuff that is in the room. Overspray will go on the floor and on to skirtings and architraves, as long as these are pre primed then a light sand and top coat later the overspray is covered. Its not a deal breaker if sockets and switches are on, it takes about 30 seconds to mask a socket with 50mm tape. Setting up the machine is a bit too complex to explain just with words. A typical room can be first coated in about 5 mins. With regards to those who say that the finish is so good that it is a problem then this is a nice problem to have. I’d say get everything two coated for speed, move in, then when you’ve got more time paint the walls in your chosen colour or special finish with a brush and roller. I hope this is helpful. @Ferdinand
    1 point
  12. Was the last time I went there about 10 years ago. I was walking the coast path. Thought I would go in there for supper. Went to campsite first, showered and at supper time walked back to the Wink. Did not do food. So got a taxi back into Penzance and had supper there. I looked at buying the house nearest the old harbour (say old, as in collapsing sea wall), it was the seaweed that was hanging from the roof that put me off, and that was after just a small storm. I do like it there.
    1 point
  13. Quite a lot of the sites I work on they two coat the ceilings and most coat the rest in white Really nice finish
    1 point
  14. It doesn't really take that long to prep as the only thing that needs covered up are Windows and the front/back doors. As glynn has said it's done before the sparks put anything in that you would usually have to tape of. There will be no internal doors or skirting either so just your door frames if you are going for oak that will need taped of.
    1 point
  15. Sounds to me like he does not know Cornwall too well and is sticking to the places nearest Devon. He should look at places like Perranporth (one of the best beaches in the world), Porthtowan (if he likes surfing), Portreath (if he likes cheap), Hayles (if he fancies odd, but near St. Ives). St. Just (if he wants isolated and where the ice aged ended and made a beach), Lamorna, if he fancies being washed away with the harbour wall), Mousehole (no parking, but nice lights), Newlyn (for history and cheapness), Penzance (for just about everything, and still cheap), Marazion (for cosiness and one of the best views in the world), Praa and Breage (still decent and underdeveloped, though I see that R&J Supplies are selling up), Porthleven (get in quick, it is the new Padstien), Cury, Mullion, or just about anywhere on the Lizard Peninsular (no mobile signal). Then you are around to Falmouth, which for some reason thinks it is a lot better than it is. Penryn if you like sailing and students. Then you can cross the estuary and join royalty at St. Mawes. Around St. Austell is still reasonably priced and close to Devon, but avoid the town, it is just dire. There are a few places inland, but generally it is very deprived, I know, I live in one of the most deprived areas of Europe, 50 quid makes you feel wealthy, but a few pills and a bit of blow takes the pain away for most around here then they rob my house, or set fire to a neighbours (4 house sin the last decade within 500 yards of me). I took the below picture earlier today, it is where they are developing some new flats where the price starts from £216,950, and if you want an extra bedroom (so that will be 2) add an extra £94,000. I hope the owners of the sleeping bags find somewhere warmer tonight, and with less dogshit around them. Oh, and not on the noisy main road either.
    1 point
  16. My experience was that the wall/ceiling prep was no different at all. Prepping the paint is a little more involved, as it has to be very, very thoroughly stirred, far more that most would bother to do when painting with a brush or roller, but really just a matter of using fresh cans of paint and a drill-driven mechanical paint stirrer well. Flat surface are dead easy, corners less so, but I found that swapping out the nozzle for a smaller pattern one and doing all the corners first, then fitting a wide nozzle to do the walls etc, worked fine. I used a large painters george as a hand held mask for edges, very quick and easy to do once you have the knack. Getting the pressure right for the paint and nozzle was a bit of a knack, too. Too much pressure and you get some bounce back that creates dust, so best to dial the pressure down so it's just enough to get an even pattern. By far the biggest issue if the clean up time required for the airless sprayer unit, hose, gun, nozzle and filters. I found it takes as long to clean the kit properly as it does to paint a whole room, so best to plan to do as much painting in the same colour as possible in one go, that way you only get the clean the system up once, rather than several times. I never found a reason to use a brush or roller, and managed to practice enough to be able to spray pretty precisely with a good surface finish. It would now be my first choice for a big emulsion painting job, for sure, but then I detest painting anyway...............
    1 point
  17. There are cheaper and better places than Port Isaac (or Portwenn as some know it). Some even have loads of unrestricted parking. Ask him how much he wants to spend and what sort of summer income he fancies.
    1 point
  18. @Dreadnaught. Yes please! A major part of the survey is to find out peoples' attitudes and opinions of what benefits self-build and custom-build housing can bring to the individual and to the country.
    1 point
  19. We lived in Belgium for awhile and a lot of the light switches over there have that sort of arrangement. Looks like a European thing.
    1 point
  20. Sounds like a couple of cold dead legs - not much you can do now as the method of fixing is either to use a hot return loop or use smaller bore pipe to the taps. Not sure with how yours is set up anyway if you could use a hot return anyway as there is a flow switch in the cold feed to trigger the Heat Exchanger loop pump.
    1 point
  21. Flow rate is how many litres per minute comes out the tap. Then you work out the volume of the pipe and that should give you the time. If you compare it to other other taps around the place, you should be able to see if it is that bathroom has a particular problem, or it is just a general lack of flow and pressure. All a bit of a faff I know. But I will get you measuring everything eventually.
    1 point
  22. Awesome thank you! Would never have guessed that.
    1 point
  23. Oh, and as your pushing on with this project, consider the lead times with the sunamp . May be game over if they can't get them to you quickly enough.
    1 point
  24. Ah sorry. Just adjusted my thinking from the current couple of installs I'm speccing ( as their SA units are being used half and half, heating / hot water ). A low loss header will suffice here I think. No stored pressurised hot water volume exceeding 15litres in any one device and no need for annual inspections. ASHP > SA via a 2-port zone valve. ASHP > LLH via a 2-port zone valve. LLH > UFH / space heating. You can simply accept some short cycling, not much, with the LLH accepting it's a cheaper and easier solution, or fit another SA unit as half buffer / half DHW uplift. Then you can reduce the size of the DHW SA units. They're an elegant solution, and save annual inspections, so in 10 years you'll be paid up on the heating buffer unit, will have saved energy producing DHW, won't need any complex plumbing or controls, and won't have any major standing losses, so it's down to paying a bit more up front, with a view to some payback from the reduced associated ongoing costs.
    1 point
  25. She would have been better off cutting her losses at that point . The mirror was clearly trying to commit suicide!
    1 point
  26. Little message for your power crazy council employee
    1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. That banking 'incidents' skill. Phenomnal. It just taught me to be similarly careful about remembering 'things'
    1 point
  29. I wondered whether that might be possible, but didn't hold out any hope. I'll look into it tomorrow. Thanks! When my wife saw how annoyed I was with myself for doing it, she didn't add anything. I get most of my sledging when I haven't actually done anything wrong!
    1 point
  30. Hawkins was an atheist who was publicly open about this, but for the large part only commented on this in a personal context. Of far more importance was that he was also a great scientist and thinker who achieved this greatness despite personal tragedy and disability that would crush the vast majority of us. He left the world a better place after his passing and caused no material harm to others in doing so. If I could achieve 10% of that, then I would die happy.
    1 point
  31. I think you probably want a recording when the War and Peace document is being explained in all its gory glory, for future reference when you are unclear on something in 2 or 6 years time. And probably at some point to confirm your restrictions in writing. What about "Network Rail workers will only be allowed in chicken suits"?
    1 point
  32. Further to the above, I've been digging out prices if anyone wants to mix their own pump corrosion inhibitor. It seems that the Graco Pump Armour is a bit pricey, at around £16 per litre, so it's worth looking at a cheaper option. For those that want to make their own "pump armour", then here's a recipe, using stuff from ebay. Bear in mind that this will produce the same concentrate as the Graco product, so needs to be diluted in the same way before use. This is actually a 60% ethylene glycol, ~1% sodium nitrite corrosion inhibitor mix, so near-identical to pump armour, and at least well within their production tolerance, right at the upper end, so it will, if anything, be slightly more effective. Buy 5 litres of 100% ethylene glycol (around £20 from ebay) and 250g of sodium nitrite (also from ebay) for around £5 (this is more sodium nitrite than needed, but it's cheaper to buy 250g). Mix 50g of sodium nitrite to the 5 litres of ethylene glycol and then add 3.3 litres of water and stir well. You now have 8.3 litres of "pump armour" concentrate, for the princely sum of about £25 (with enough sodium nitrite left over for four more batches). Dilute and use in the same way as pump armour. The only differences between pump armour and the above mixture is that pump armour costs over five times more, and this home made version doesn't have the blue dye and bittering agent that's added to stop people drinking the stuff. Chemically it will do the same thing, and provide the same, or better, level of corrosion protection. If you don't want to bother making the stuff, then buy blue antifreeze concentrate (not the red or purple stuff) and use that. Any decent brand of blue antifreeze concentrate will be around 40% to 50% ethylene glycol, and will have sodium nitrite as the corrosion inhibitor. The red or purple antifreeze is not ethylene glycol, and may contain silicates and be based on OATs, so is not suitable for this purpose. Decent quality blue antifreeze is about half the price of pump armour, so still a significant saving.
    1 point
  33. on Facebook or punch in Emulsion spray painting on YouTube.
    0 points
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