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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/18 in all areas

  1. Right... Here is where a lot of your issues are : The red circle shows two things. Firstly that the hanger is not connected at the base or the face so its free to twist when any load is put on the bottom. The blue circle shows that the hanger and the posijoist are incorrectly fitted. The hanger should either fit the full face of the trimmer, or have a tab under the trimmer and "legs" wrapped over the top. It also looks like the hanger is missing a few nails. Any weight on that joist is going to twist the trimmer out of line and allow it to bounce. Looking at it in detail you could potentially get a block down the side of FT02 and FG01 from your layout that would brace the trimmer against the wall and stop it twisting although that wouldn't sort that trimmer issue. I would be asking the builder what was supplied - and also checking if that came from the manufacturer as B01 definitely looks wrong !
    2 points
  2. I think F&B is one of the only paints allowed for use on listed/ heritage work. Which is why they can charge what they like. But between you and me. Our old decorator used to keep one can just for this purpose. He just kept filling it up with cheaper, easier to use alternatives.
    2 points
  3. Ive got one similar to this. On a small area like the one we are talking about, this will be pretty quick. Like Nick said, protect the vunerable stuff.
    1 point
  4. What Nick said. You can get quite close with the scaler and finish with the planer,depends on how much you need to remove and over what area you need to cover.
    1 point
  5. until

    Hi everyone, Sorry if anyone came by the stand and I was busy with other customers. It was a very busy day with plenty of self-builders and renovators doing their research and keeping up to date with new technologies. The stand I was on (218 next to the theater) featured a variety of products including solar tiles in various colours as well as electrical and PCM heat storage batteries, so there was plenty to discuss and some very green envious looks from the visiting Tesla rep, due to Tesla delays in bringing the solar tiles to market. The hall started to calm down about 3.45pm so I look forward to doing it all again tomorrow. kind regards to all. AndyT.
    1 point
  6. You would of thought there would be some internal render with some form of flexibility by now ? Im sure others will jump in with a solution . Like you I hate the cracks ! Brand new build should have no cracks ever ?
    1 point
  7. not according to the sips company, no, 22mm sarking required. it does seem strange, I'll admit oops, forgot one important thing membrane, with battens at 600mm, then sarking, membrane, slates important thing to forget
    1 point
  8. Deliciously simple, and way better looking than a dry verge imo.
    1 point
  9. Just as I said in June. The Protect Barriair membrane was the cheapest I could find, I got it to order from Jewson and the Tescon Vana tape from a German ebay seller way cheaper than any of the UK sellers. One thing I would caution. The Barriiar membrane has in built tape down both edges so that is supposed to be the air tightness tape to join adjacent strips. BUT I found in places where the taped joint did not line up with a stud (and hence service void batten) it had a tendancy in places to come unstuck. So, what I did was everywhere there was a joint not ending up underneath a batten, I screwed an offcut strip of OSB over the joint to hold it together, just in case. It might be better to tape the joints in the Barriair with Tescon Vanna rather than rely on the inbuilt adhesive strips.
    1 point
  10. I'm about to head up to the house - will check how much I have and get back to you later. j
    1 point
  11. Try Idealcombi https://idealcombi.com/ They should meet your spec
    1 point
  12. I had shiny new, fixed focus, acrylic lenses embedded into my eyeballs a decade ago. Fantastic colours, can spot a natural blonde at 500 yards, absolutely hopeless up close. Makes the latest G/F look like a 22 year old.
    1 point
  13. @PeterW and as stated previously, look to the top of the trimmer above your red circle, it's short there too, either that or it's a trick of the lens
    1 point
  14. I sustained some damage on-site and wanted to make a claim. So read the policy a few times and was none the wiser if this was covered - the language is designed to make it difficult for us mere mortals. Having said that, spoke to the broker and a claim went in and (after a lot of chasing) got looked at and then eventually paid out.
    1 point
  15. In my previous house the entire place was decorated in F&B. Its not only the chalkiness its the depth of pigment and how the colours change in the light you are paying for. The copies cannot match it in any way, at one point I tried the copies in Johnstone and Dulux no-one who knows would mistake it for true F&B. Decorators universally hate it because it needs more care and coats to get an even finish. In my new house I am going for Dulux Trade Ulramatt tinted to my preferred shade....not a F&B copy colour. Having had F&B in all its glory I said never again. It is a nightmare to keep looking perfect and I am a perfectionist so every little mark drove me nuts and cost me fortunes in redecoration. We are a 2 adult household no kids so didnt have any real wear and tear but still every little mark shows. If you want F&B in a wipeable finish go for the modern emulsion not the flat estate emulsion. It was not for me its the hint of shine in the modern I dislike I want the flattest flat matt. One F&B product I would and will use in preference to main stream paints is their eggshell for wood. Its brilliant. Nice alternative to F&B if you want to pay the premium for designer paint that is a bit more robust is Little Green. I love Craig and Rose paint but its even more difficult than F&B to keep perfect. Join the million discussion boards on Mumsnet about F&B and the pros and cons and the best copy colours. Hours of fun!
    1 point
  16. Exactly the same from the guy who did our decorating. The colours can be matched by many other paints. The "chalkiness" obviously isn't there, but apparently it's a nightmare, because the moment you touch, scuff, or wash it, you get a patch that looks different from the rest.
    1 point
  17. Essentially there are two different requirements in the Building Regulations themselves, but these aren't 100% clear in the guidance in the Approved Documents. The first requirement is that the foul drain has to be vented to atmosphere, such that there can be no build up of pressure inside it - the idea is to allow any gases to escape via a vent. The second requirement is that there has to be a means to prevent a partial vacuum forming in a soil pipe when a toilet is flushed or a basin or bath emptied. Common usage was to combine both of these requirements into a single vent pipe that does both functions, and either run it through the roof or run it up the outside of the house if the soil pipe is external. However, there's no need to do this at all, you can split the two functions and solve each individually. You can fit a vent pipe, to allow the foul drain to be at atmospheric pressure, pretty much anywhere along the pipe run. You can even fit one beyond the entry point of the soil pipe inside a hedge or flower bed, at fairly low level if you wish, or run an external vent pipe outside the house and up above eaves level. To resolve the partial vacuum problem you can fit an AAV inside the house, well above the highest outlet, in a position where it can be accessed for maintenance. This will open if there is a partial vacuum in the soil pipe and allow air to be drawn in, then close to prevent smells from escaping. An AAV cannot stop any build up of pressure in the foul drain, so if you fit one then you need an external vent as well. The advantage of fitting an AAV and an external vent is that there is less heat loss. Internal vent pipes act a bit like chimneys and constantly draw cool air up through them, so unless well-insulated they will draw heat from the house and can act as a focus for condensation. If you have an existing vent to the foul drain, then you should be fine with an AAV for the new upstairs bathroom. It needs to be well above the highest drain and accessible for occasional maintenance/replacement, so you can't build it into a wall without some form of access cover, plus it needs a reasonable air supply.
    1 point
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