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@Russell griffiths A couple of extra thoughts with regard to metal roof sheets is to - make sure you design the roof so that you can span from ridge to eaves using a single sheet to avoid the potential corrosion and leak issue inherent in trying to joint the roof sheets mid-span. - penetrations through the metal roof sheets for things like flues and vents can be awkward to detail and construct properly so best avoided if at all possible.

You could always blog here on BH!

I think that wix.com have blogging, you would have to check. Biggest problem with the free sites is the amount of space they give you for nothing, and any adds of course. It is pretty cheap to set up your own website.

What is stuck in there, or more to the point, who!!

I suppose the cat was a living demonstration of the principle of staying active.

Its mainly just gutters made from the basic colorcoated steel that I have an issue with. Its based on years of experience of specifying the product on large scale commercial buildings and also occasions when I've been asked to inspect buildings with earlier versions of this colorcoated steel system. (The corrosion protection of the current colorcoat system is better than previous versions manufactured back in the days of Corus and British Steel.) The failure points with the system are the cut edges and the gutters. I would say it's a generally a good product with the following exceptions: - I wouldn't use it at all in locations with very aggressive environments such as right next to the coast or next to heavy industry (in those areas you're better designing the building with no sheltered overhangs as these can induce poultice corrosion in areas not washed by rainwater). There are much better alternatives for these kind of aggressive environmental conditions rather than painted steel. - unlined gutters made of the material usually have the high grade paint on the outside and the thin low grade paint on the inner surface of the gutter - I've seen lots of gutters made from this material where the constant drip of water from the roof onto the gutter has lead to early failure. The gutter needs painting with something more protective or lining.

Don’t go too cheap I've been doing these type of render systems for over thirty years We are not particularly expensive But have been undercut by as much as 50 % on some jobs Dave is very near the mark with a £100 per sq mtr you're going to be looking at it for a long time This is the house that I’m self building. Two of us, four and half days applying two coats of k rend 300 bags Last March

As Crofter says, the Screwfix no-nonsense adhesive is cheap and effective. Just be careful that the boarding doesn't move within the 1st 10 mins or so after fixing otherwise you will create a shear plane between the adhesive and the plaster. A good trick if you've got a radial arm chop saw is to cut a bunch of ~25° wedges from a bit of CLS, say 88 × 200 on the rectangular sides. If your walls are at all wavy, then you can use a single temporary screw to screw these to the floor on the 200 long side about 2 cm from the skirting surface (so the sloping side is facing up and the 88mm side near the skirting) and tap in a couple of 2cm folding wedges to push the skirting back hard onto the wall until the adhesive cures. We have a box of 20 or so these that only took a few mins to cut and we use them whenever we are fixing skirting over a wooden floor.

You might want some decorators caulk after to go along the top of the skirting where it meets the wall if they (the walls) are not too good. Using it previous I gunned it in, took off the excess with a paint scraper / old credit card then finished off with a wet paint brush.

Hi I have some friends who have rented a stairlift, to overcome what is hopefully a short term problem. The system rented does not attach to the wall, rather it is installed by short legs onto the stairs. I don't know the details but I can find out if it is of interest?

I fitted structural supports in the wall, behind the plasterboard, adjacent to our stairs, and made sure there was plenty of space at the base of the stairs for the chair to be parked, out of the way, when I designed our house, specifically because I could see a time when one or other of us might need a stairlift. I also fitted very wide doors and flush door thresholds everywhere, to make wheel chair access easier, with clear areas around doors to allow a wheelchair user room to turn and line up with the doors more easily. This was based on all the hassle we had when I was growing up, with a father that had MS. Our 1930's built house was damned awkward for anyone with a disability and ended up having to be very extensively modified so my father could continue to live in it. We had to build a large extension, with a downstairs bedroom, wheelchair friendly toilet and bathroom and widen most of the doorways downstairs - not easy, as the lintels had to come out to allow wider doors to be fitted. My memories of doing that, plus things like spending a summer holiday building brick walls for raised rose beds, and a wheelchair path alongside it, so he could carry on growing roses, had a fairly big influence on the design of our house and garden.

You can get some real steals on Gumtree on these stair lifts. Let's face it a lot of people have them put in and "don't need them for long" Many relatives just want rid. Or the new house comes with one they don't won't. When my brother was in plaster for 12 weeks recently I looked at it but he didn't want to go that route. Just an example, even one on there for £50: https://www.gumtree.com/p/mobility-disability-medical/stairlift-by-meditex/1274413784 An old work colleague now services them so I can ask him ref makes etc.

i'm a master builder but because of physical preoblems can no,longer build,so i know all to well what kind of problems disabilies are i had a couple of people come round to my house talking about lifts when i pointed. out to them this would make my house structurally unsafe theynhad no idea of hat to do eing a builder i called on people i,worked with to get my ground floor garage converted to a bedroom an wetroom if you give some dimensions and breif perhaps i can look at it

Have had a bit of a trawl through the forum to see what people are using to stick their skirting boards on with. Gripfill was going to be my go to option but found a few negative comments about it skinning over too fast. Jeremy suggested this stuff: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-11663102-solvent-free-grab-adhesive-white-310ml-12-pack/61428 Any other contenders? Roughly how much should I need to do c.50m of skirt/arc?

I'm watching this topic with interest, Ferdinand, as my father in law has largely lost his mobility in the last year and now relies on a wheelchair and negotiates stairs with difficulty. Thanks for the updates.