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@MikeSharp01, you should know better than to come on BH and ask stoooooopid questions like that. I mean, who is going to say, "Naaah mate, just struggle on with a teaspoon, that'll do: I used a bent one, it was free cos I found it in the gutter: I sharpened it by rubbing it on a mermaid's thigh for 6 weeks." Instead you get: Bingo.... "Look Darling, Jeremy says we should get one, so I'm off down the BM...... OK?

Another common CU fault is the busbar finger missing the cage clamp terminal. Most mcb's have a terminal arrangement where if the clamp is closed you can insert the busbar finger into empty space. Then you can "tighten" the terminal and "job's a good un" except it's not. A few makes of mcb have solved this for a few pence, by adding an extra tang onto the cage clamp that blocks the hole into the space behind the clamp, so the only place the busbar can go is into the correct place. It iritates me that we "solve" the problems by putting it all in a tin box, rather than mandating engineering solutions like a very simple modification to the terminal design to design out the possibility of faults.

Two Debbies

Im thinking of selling my little 3 bed on Dartmoor and buying an entire Welsh village plus enough left over for a holiday

Dont forget the hhhkkkkkkrrrr at the back of your throat.

22mm OSB with 15mm plasterboard over that. One day I might even slap some paint on it.

Do you mean these? https://www.cablejoints.co.uk/sub-product-details/duct-seals-duct-sealing-csd-rise-duct-seal Wonder if you would get away with Wiska Gel? A squirt of foam first then: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKMG300.html?ad_position=1o2&source=adwords&ad_id=45425533757&placement=&kw=&network=g&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=WKMG300&product_partition_id=174057604147&test=finalurl_v2&gclid=Cj0KCQjw557NBRC9ARIsAHJvVVOgRLvrGAuC_ql-2a8R9D1lJDqdZPQBDWHYLuQ2jONpfhSlOCizZN4aAgImEALw_wcB

Instead of using a board lifter at our last project i got swmbo to help do the ceiling. One of the boards snapped over her head she still reminds me about it regularly. Guess what we are buying soon!!

As long as it's got a pub. ??

If you can find one to click and collect: https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/ebac-powerdri-dehumidifier-with-removable-filter-18l-9999-was-21999-wickes-cc-2777269

There's a fella in your garage with binoculars!

Makes my block work look very dull! Nice!!

Nope not yet, next find.

Haven't you lot got bloody houses to build ?

have you got/ looked into a board lifter? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drywall-Panel-Plaster-Board-Sheet-Hoist-Lift-Lifting-Lifter-Construct-Tool-11ft-/253098500094?epid=2185774479&hash=item3aedd89ffe:g:jr4AAOSwRztZk8jg

Thanks all. In case you're wondering why I'm being so pedantic about this, I'm now rather wary after my experiences with Scottish Water, who had me jumping through hoops trying to meet their unpublished spec and threatening to charge me for aborted site visits if everything wasn't quite right. This included buying a check valve that one manager insisted I had to have, which the guys never actually installed (anybody want it?) and telling me that my boundary box was not the correct type, despite them failing to issue me any specs beyond the words 'boundary box'. Just because you're paranoid, don't mean they're not after you...

I have used chipboard and MDF in the past. As long as they can drive a wood screw into it I don't think they care. The standard meter boxes have a piece of very cheap feeling thin chipboard. An offcut of chipboard flooring would be miles better.

Always best to use an mdpe stopcock on mdpe. . I'm an avid hater of anything ( metal ) compression going onto anything other than metal. The olives just chew through.

I must admit, I've taken a much keener interest in the building process since I've been building my own. Driving past new build sites, horrified by the lack of and shoddy fitting of insulation, for a start. My 5 year old has started tutting audibly when he sees a new build site. Don't know where he got from.

Our guys just scored the boards with a knife and long straight edge, then snapped them. The only sawing was when making the cut outs for sockets, switches, etc. The technique for marking these on the boards (provided the boxes have been correctly fitted so that they protrude into the board) is to cut the board to size. put it in position and then thump it where the box is. This marks the back of the board so that the cut out is in exactly the right place. A collated driver is a must, as you'll get thoroughly sick and tired of trying to do this single-handedly without one.

so it's not just fridge doors that need an alarm then?

Maintenance of what ? Almost all modern mixers are serviced from the front . Spend a little extra and go for something Mira / Vado / HansGrohe and you'll be guaranteed future service / parts availability too. Your question kind of answers itself. If you pour a bucket of water on the floor, it needs to all go down the drain. If you have a wet floor / former in the middle of the room, and no glass sides, then you need the entire room tanked all the way to the door. You need a bloody good tiler to pull this off, but it is doable. Basically you fit the shower glass to hide the fact that the tiles drop. Now you see it Now you don't. Thats basically how you'll need to do yours, with a linear drain in the middle exactly like that is. Yours will look the same, but instead of walking into the wall, where the shower is in that pic, you'll walk out the other side. So basically you'll be doing the same as I did there but mirrored. Get the wet area the same distance as the linear drains come supplied at so you have a full width drain, save for 50mm or so each end so your wall tile has a bit of floor tile to land on. Say 1000mm wide and a 900mm drain.

You only have to make off one CU to realise that this is almost always the case. I've been to loads of call outs where people are complaining of circuits not working, most with heavy loads like the kitchen ring, and I've found loose terminals on MCB's, and most where it's a relatively new CU / retire and they can't get hold of the original electrician to rectify. Make off the CU, go off and do a bit of second fixing for an hour or so, and then you'll be shocked at just how much more you can turn those terminal screws again, the ones just now that wouldn't budge any further. Plumbers fitting electric showers and 45a pull-cords are the best, lost count of how many of those I've been called out to and they're charcoal by then. Went to one not so long back where there was power ( live ) in all the sockets, so some hero with a volt-stick had said its not a problem with the CU, only for me to find the neutrals all lifted where they'd arc'd themselves dry. If trades folk had to do the kind of apprenticeship I had to do then there would be enough wankers scared off in the first year to sieve through this problem, but the market is flooded with college heros who can't drill a hole in a straight line. I'm constantly getting calls from mates who can't get something to work, can't fault find, or simply don't know what they're looking at. The garage which carries out my class 7 mot had a big compressor sat in the corner with the wires hanging out of it. I asked why they're hiring a small compressor whilst that's there and they said its been there for 2 years whilst they've asked every Tom, Dick and Harry to get the big one going, and none of them returned. 10 mins on the phone to Alan ( Magnum Compressors, very helpful guy if anyone is stuck ) and a new star / delta starter box and associated controls was posted out. A Saturday morning fine tuning the start over-current trip ( pita ) and jobs done. If you don't know, ask someone who does . Simple.

Here's a couple of photos of our MBC slab where we're having a shower former in the downstairs cloakroom. We didn't apply a fall to the rest of the floor just simply positioned the waste and created a former with a sheet of polystyrene. We're having a glass screen and it will only get occasional use. The boxed section is to allow for the trap.

To my mind these are two different things, the desktop/phase 1 is a historical review of the site looking at and for possible contamination that might affect human health or the structural integrity of any future foundations/building. The second is a soil survey looking at the geotechnical structure of the soil. Might be worth clarifying which is it the planner wants? He might want both!

A bit of messing about with the welder will do you no harm at all. Burn a few holes leave a few blobs who cares. Will help you get rid of some of that stress stuff that I am sure is building up in you.

I hope your going to put it up in your workshop.

Harumph..... If proof were needed here it is @Russell griffiths I am indeed a welding God after all! So there. Let that be a lesson to ya! (We all gotta start somewhere)

Agree in spades! That's why I'm such a fan of galv conduit. This was mid new kitchen. The place came with a nice dinner gong...I just knew so carefully excavated to show this: A near miss methinks!

OK not the most exciting topic of discussion I admit! I've just about finished insulating the inside of the house and next step is the vapour barrier layer, which is also going to be the airtightness layer. Big range of stuff on offer from 150 to 1000 gauge, big range of prices too. Are any materials better than others when it comes to getting them stuck together? Anybody care to share what they've used? Don't want to spend hours looking this up if I can avoid it