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Had a few days off so doing the prep for the shed...managed a lick of paint in the loo too Doesn't look like much but tackled a jungle of bush with a friend's Lidl petrol strimmer Job done ? Update Tried the Glasgow Barras (flea market) for three items I wanted for the hut. An hour of raking through junk and found nothing other than a big teapot...but without its lid. Headed over to the west end dissatisfied but looking forward to a spicy curry from Mother India Cafe as compensation. One curry tapas medley later and thought I'd try some of the trendy second hand/antique shops in the area. Bingo Bango in the first shop. All three things on the list...30 squids! We got a catering teapot ( for heating water for washing up on the stove) a brass and copper coal scuttle and a nice toast fork...and I made a nice picture for you lot to look at since the forum is quiet.???

Using up some 50 & 25mm EPS. 50mm first and I should get a cover of 25mm over that:

Heat from those pipes will be the square root of naff all - pump motor will get hotter from the bath above than that pipe ...

No I just copied the wrong link ..!! http://www.jcc.co.uk/lighting/skytile-linear-1200x300/

Hi Paul, JS Harris on here posted a heat loss calculator on eBuild, I don't know if it is here, but from what you say your house could well be approaching passive house levels of insulation, it depends on your air tightness, the insulation levels sound pretty high You'll barely need any heating at all. The plumber is talking absolute nonsense on the two boilers. A lot of trades just aren't used to the amount of heating required in a modern well insulated house, you might only need 5kw of heat input if I had to guess. I am building a house twice the size of yours with a pool and will only have one 40kw boiler. As Mike say, once your heat loss gets really low, actually how fast you want to heat your water starts to drive the size of your boiler. Your UVC will probably be ale to take 30kw of heat input and I would think this is the size of boiler you need. Anything else is overkill. We have a 250l UVC at the moment and never run out of hot water, except when people stay. There are three of us. If you have people stay a lot and lots of people try to get up at 5am to catch a flight or something like that, running out of hot water is a pain. The real killer is if someone has lots of baths, a 150l bath fill plus two showers could drain a 200l tank. I would say a 300l UVC is the right size for the house you describe. Is the suggestion of 2x200l so you can turn off one sometimes? 300l will have slightly higher standing losses than 200l, but the cost of an extra cylinder and extra installation costs would dwarf this. Indeed a 300l cylinder only costs around £100 more than a 200l cylinder and fitting costs are almost as high as the cost of a cylinder. Also two cylinders will take up a lot more room. In fact, sorry to say this, but the more I think about it I wonder if your plumber is at it, he is suggesting a system with 2 boilers and 2 cylinders which is totally unnecessary and will cost around £4000 more than it should.

We have a 250L UVC with 5kW ASHP. Seems to work fine. As discussed elsewhere, we boost the top part with the immersion every morning but probably don't need to. We've never run out of water in a year living here, although admittedly our water pressure is a bit low at the moment (temporary restrictor fitted by plumber to make absolutely sure we pass water calcs). We have two young kids who tend to take longish showers unless you continually hound them out of it. My wife and I both shower at least once a day, and what with sport, gym, etc, I'd say we average 5-6 showers a day between us, of anything between 4 and 10 mins each. We do have shower waste water recovery, and I'm convinced that helps a lot. One thing you could consider is plumbing in the basics for a second cylinder and seeing how you get on with just the one. If you make the room now and put the main pipework in place, it won't cost much, and you'll avoid outlaying for something you may never use. My inlaws have 2 x 250L in their 5 bed house with just the two of them(!) They basically turn one off unless they have quite a few guests. Personally I think they could do with just one by leaving the immersion running constantly on the odd weekend when they have guests. You might consider something similar as well, especially if your peak needs are going to only be occasional (might depend on how often you actually use the baths) . Bear in mind that although the occasional immersion usage seems wasteful, you have half the standing losses with a single tank. To be fair to her, she hasn't seen the restrictor you're going to hide in the plumbing to said shower!

SWMBO and I were discussing this. "I want a larger HW tank in the new house" "Why, this one never runs out of hot water" "You haven't seen the shower I want in the new house".......

EBT for my jobs, the others are more marine / exterior specific hence their prices.

Needed to reinstate the 50mm PIR on the cavity wall where the pipes are. Figured as above to V the PIR which I did on the table saw after marking with a bevel gauge to clear the 15mm copper. Just got to infill it now: The V meets at the back. Can't decide whether to just gun foam the Vs and trim off later or stick back in the removed sections (trimmed for depth)with low expansion foam, At least then the Celotex writing would be back in place! Can't see that "burying" these pipes is an issue on the basis there are no joints in them whatsoever just offsets and bends.

Fwiw, the equidistant 'stare at it longer than actually doing it' phase is something I suffer from too, just I've learned to get a solution quickly and move on in order to actually make some money. One of the reasons I'm not rich ??

I usually cut a section of plywood out and fix a tile on with 4 or 5 50p size blobs of mastic. The tile the gets grouted as normal and looks flawless. I tell the customer to keep at least one full box of tiles, and the idea is if you need to get in ever, you just cover the tile in gaffa tape and whack it in the middle to break it. Remove it and clean up, change whatever and stick a fresh tile back. Fwiw most modern taps are all services from above . I only put an access option on these kind of jobs as there was also an air admittance valve ( on top of the white pipe shown ) so was more worried about that failing tbh.