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I ended up doing as you mentioned

Well this was a long cup of coffee... It's common to try and exclude consequential loss but my understanding is it may only be enforceable with business customers unless the contract was specifically negotiated with you rather then being standard T&Cs. I believe you, being a "consumer customer", also have statutory rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 in that excluding consequential loss probably amounts to an unfair contract. https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/somethings-gone-wrong-with-a-purchase/claim-compensation-if-an-item-or-product-causes-damage/ https://www.consumercouncil.org.uk/sites/default/files/2019-09/A_Guide_To_Consumer_Law_for_Businesses.PDF https://www.squirepattonboggs.com/~/media/files/insights/publications/2015/10/the-consumer-rights-act-how-does-it-impact-on-brand-owners/cra-article-for-consumer-brands-alert.pdf https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/450440/Unfair_Terms_Main_Guidance.pdf Reading on it appears they believe the exclusions of unforeseeable consequences would be ok but the exclusion of foreseeable ones would be unfair. If that gets raised I'd argue that the consequences of a leak were reasonably foreseeable by both parties! So looks like a pretty certain that a consequential loss exclusion is unfair when the buyer is a consumer. I'd get quotes for the repairs and send them a letter asking them to pay up before you do any work. Point out that clauses in contracts with consumers which use terms like "consequential loss" are considered unfair. I believe you have to give them the opportunity to fix it before you can get it done yourself by a third party and claim compensation. Give them a two week deadline to respond? You could probably also claim for your time locating the source of the leak but I think I would just point out that that by taking action to promptly identify the source of the leak, and removing sodden insulation yourself, you have minimised the possible damage and the cost to the rooflight company. I've also been reading something about the Alternative Dispute Resolution (ADR) Directive which provides an alternative to court action. I think TrustMark is an ADR provider. Perhaps find out if the rooflight co is a member and involve them?

I sympathise greatly. Simple non communication is common. Very few if any contractors have the skills needed to give customers difficult messages. Not surprising either because at school or training college nobody ever teaches communication. The focus is on the core skill of the trade. Just because you do it every day doesn't mean you are good at it. Communicate that is. Effective efficient communication is hard work, especially when things go wrong. Because then emotion clicks in. And that's super hard to strip out of the core task. So contractors over-promise, and take the line of least resistance. And shut up. To succeed in their terms all they have to do is nothing. And because that's so tempting, it's what happens most. Systems and people show themselves for what they really are - deep down - when things go wrong. When the soft and smelly hits the fan. You're better off not working with a contractor who hasn't got the guts or basic politeness to maintain contact.

I dont have an issue with anyone who tells me straight up that they dont want the job, it's the being strung along whilst they tell me they do want the job which really winds me up. I would rather they free me up to invest my time in finding someone who does want my cash rather than waste my time in pointless dialogue about a job they then go radio silent on. @Oz07 I was in discussion about self compacting, but I was put off by another self builders on here saying that their EPS and steel started floating when the concrete got under it. @stephen margerison I'll always keep going, stopping ain't an option whilst the missus and little ens endure static Caravan life! After a lot of googling and phone calls this morning, I have another contractor lined up - booked in for last friday of march, let's see how this one goes?‍♂️

So a bit more progress. Room cleared out, floor cleaned and tanked ready for the tiler on Monday I was short of tanking membrane. But I had enough. Just. It was a bit of a patchwork at the far end that is down beside the WC, but there was just enough, not a scrap left over. And the plumbing for the shower has been completed and leak tested

It is over the drain ; though that wasn’t anything to do with it’s placement. I didn’t want to install 2 taps ( one for rear , other for front ) so just installed one half way .

I agree, but our Itho Daalderop 3 in 1 boiling water tap wasn't massively expensive. We opted for the brushed stainless one and it cost a bit under £700 IIRC. A similar quality 2 way mixer kitchen tap would probably have cost a couple of hundred or so, so we probably paid around £400 more for the convenience of having boiling water on hand. Definitely a "nice to have" rather than an essential, but not that much more cost overall when compared with a decent kitchen tap and the cost of two or three kettles over a ten year period. In the case of our unit, the water is held at around 105°C to 108°C in the reservoir and when dispensed is actively boiling as it comes out of the tap, so very close to 100°C, and will sometimes continue boiling in the cup if that's already warm. I may measure it later, just to be sure, but I'd be surprised if it drops to as low as 90°C until some time after it's been sat in the cup. It looks very much as if the water coming out of the nozzle is still slightly superheated to me, as there is definitely a risk of scalding from the spitting as the pressure drops as it comes out and the water flash boils as a consequence. You soon learn that there is a definite technique to using it, if you don't want to get splashed with boiling water.

In response to the OP's request - water is held pressurised a bit above boiling point and dispensed around 95-98 degrees. When one considers the temperate of the container that its poured out into, the heat loss probably cools it down to around the 90 degree point anyways. Of course this will depend on several factors such as the mass of the container and surface area in contact with water, temperature of the container, volume of water dispensed etc.

He normally makes around £250 So the £85 per week he will receive won’t make much difference I think he’s just doing what he thinks is right I’ve had someone there today finishing his job and collecting his zero cutter I said before that most of what you will get on self builds are at the best second tear builders With the better more reliable being looked after by companies I always chuckle when I see drainage drawings posted Ground-workers rarely look at them let alone follow them But everything seams to work when finished

Hold the nails with some long nose pliers to save your fingers at the start then use a long punch or two hammers to drive them home.

Take a walk down to your concrete supplier, in your scruffs, and speak to them, ask if they know any good reliable concrete lads. same with plumbers, brickies joiners ect works most times as they only recommend good lads ! keep going and think outside the box.

The thickness only depends on the insulation level you're looking for, really. Our slab has 300mm of EPS underneath it to get the U value down to around 0.1 W/m².K, and if we'd used foam glass we'd have needed a similar thickness, but it would have been a lot more expensive.

Perrin and Rowe do a boiling tap ( 3 in 1) that has adjustable temp.

Well no _____ the cost of the project was over one million I was the main contractor. When your using helicopters to bring all your materials in one million + is a tight budget.

It's pretty difficult to make a maintenance free joint between SWA and T&E. It can be done, but if you can possibly avoid doing it life would be a great deal easier. What's the reason for not running the SWA inside the house? The easiest solution is usually to run the SWA to where it needs to connect, then, if need be, terminate it in a small box, fitted with the appropriate glands, and run a short length of T&E to the CU or wherever.

Yes that is how you normally do it... assuming you use a Wago or similar connector. Alternative is that you put an adaptable box on the outside and terminate in that - can be sometimes easier.

My Redring (Lamona Aka Howdens) one has an adjustment dial so if you were not after perfect tea, but instead wanted warm water for coffee you could do that.

Moan time. I have gone through three contractors now who I thought I had lined up to do the concrete pour/powerfloat of my slab. Everytime they seem keen and talk a good talk, then eventually they stop answering their phone, dont even have the courtesy to let me know they dont want the job anymore. One even sent me a text saying yeah he's still on to do the job, then didn't answer my call or respond to a text when I rang to sort out a few details - why the hell take the time to type that text out if you dont want the job. So now I'm two weeks out from needing to get the job done and no contractor, again. If I thought I could do the job myself I would, unfortunately this is one of those areas where they need to have done it before I reckon. Back to the drawing board?

The main reason to buy is that you can make poached eggs as quickly as one can make toast. it’s life changing.

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Perhaps invite him over to install a few...