Jump to content
  • entries
    59
  • comments
    187
  • views
    7664

20 Comments


Recommended Comments

Picture 1 & 4.....what are the  (5?) conduits running down left of the 2G socket? As in not in the safe zone.....how will anyone know not to drill?

Link to comment
2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Picture 1 & 4.....what are the  (5?) conduits running down left of the 2G socket? As in not in the safe zone.....how will anyone know not to drill?

Nice spot.  If you have to do that, put them in a corner which will be in a safe zone.

Link to comment

Centres on those pipes seem about 350mm - seems very wide ..?? What insulation is under the floor ..?

Link to comment
3 hours ago, ProDave said:

Nice spot.  If you have to do that, put them in a corner which will be in a safe zone.

 

150mm either way from internal corner.....aka the "shelf bracket zone" to Joe Public! ?

 

Maybe if they taught safe zones in school?

Link to comment

They would be in a safe zone if they go to a row of network or AV sockets just above the floor. Do the rules about heights of sockets apply to those?

 

Edit to add: at least in Scotland they'd have to be at least 400 mm off the floor (“…and outlets for other services such as telephone or television…”).

Edited by Ed Davies
Link to comment
1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Centres on those pipes seem about 350mm - seems very wide ..?? What insulation is under the floor ..?

 

From the start of the OP, my emphasis:

 

Quote

Under floor heating going in up stairs 

 

Link to comment
1 minute ago, Ed Davies said:

They would be in a safe zone if they go to a row of network or AV sockets just above the floor. Do the rules about heights of sockets apply to those?

 

Socket and switch heights are from Part M "Services & Controls". Page 9:

 

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/access-to-and-use-of-buildings-approved-document-m

 

BCO might pick up if you deviate. A socket is a socket whether 230V or AV / network and should be accessible. If you do run in a line then you'll need to separate the LV lines and "network" stuff with insulated conduit or trunking.

Link to comment
8 minutes ago, Ed Davies said:

 

From the start of the OP, my emphasis:

 

 

 

Agree however that’s beam and block so the whole of the floor structure is being heated ..?? Hence my question as otherwise the heat is lost into the cavity etc 

Link to comment
1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

Socket and switch heights are from Part M "Services & Controls". Page 9:

 

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/access-to-and-use-of-buildings-approved-document-m

 

BCO might pick up if you deviate. A socket is a socket whether 230V or AV / network and should be accessible. If you do run in a line then you'll need to separate the LV lines and "network" stuff with insulated conduit or trunking.

Only applies to general purpose sockets etc.  Stick one high up the wall specifically for a wall mounted tv and it's okay.  e,g I have a switched FCU low down so it's hidden behind the surround sound sub woofer.

Link to comment
7 hours ago, ProDave said:

Only applies to general purpose sockets etc.  

 

Part M doesn't differentiate does it, just says "sockets and switches"?

 

The exception it does cite is consumer units can be a little higher.

 

I've got one deliberately high 1G socket on the landing from when I was going the put the router up high. I didn't but it would be a pain for a disabled person to reset the router up high.

 

 

Link to comment
2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Part M doesn't differentiate does it, just says "sockets and switches"?

 

The exception it does cite is consumer units can be a little higher.

 

I've got one deliberately high 1G socket on the landing from when I was going the put the router up high. I didn't but it would be a pain for a disabled person to reset the router up high.

 

 

I am sure the Scottish version referrs to general purpose.

 

So what do you do if someone wants a wall mounted tv high up?  Put the socket at 1.2 metres up the wall and have the cable hanging down to it?  I don't think so

Link to comment

Completely ignorant of these matters, but I thought the requirement was only for adequate provision, not for all sockets to be accessible by all. I took that as meaning only a middling proportion of sockets needed to be at accessible heights and even numerous sockets high and low (even on the floor) were fine.

Link to comment
52 minutes ago, ProDave said:

I am sure the Scottish version referrs to general purpose.

 

Bottom of: https://www2.gov.scot/resource/buildingstandards/2017Domestic/chunks/ch05s09.html

 

My emphasis:

 

Electrical fixtures - outlets and controls of electrical fixtures and systems should be positioned at least 350mm from any internal corner, projecting wall or similar obstruction and, unless the need for a higher location can be demonstrated, not more than 1.2m above floor level. This would include fixtures such as sockets, switches, fire alarm call points and timer controls or programmers. Within this height range:

  • light switches should be positioned at a height of between 900mm and 1.1m above floor level

  • standard switched or unswitched socket outlets and outlets for other services such as telephone or television should be positioned at least 400mm above floor level. Above an obstruction, such as a worktop, fixtures should be at least 150mm above the projecting surface

Where sockets are concealed, such as to the rear of white goods in a kitchen, separate switching should be provided in an accessible position, to allow appliances to be isolated.

 

Link to comment

In practice, dedicated high up ones for a tv, or low down ones for a washing machine, will be hidden anyway and your BC inspector will neither see them or query them.

Link to comment
On 19/02/2019 at 16:49, ProDave said:

Nice spot.  If you have to do that, put them in a corner which will be in a safe zone.

18g steel over the top will be safe and it is cat 5. Tv. Phone 

 

Edited by sussexlogs
Link to comment
21 hours ago, PeterW said:

Centres on those pipes seem about 350mm - seems very wide ..?? What insulation is under the floor ..?

The bedroom no need to be hot.and no insulation 

 

Link to comment
20 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

Agree however that’s beam and block so the whole of the floor structure is being heated ..?? Hence my question as otherwise the heat is lost into the cavity etc 

Cavity is 175mm full fill so no heat lost

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...