I don't know what house prices and plot prices are where you are looking, but few of us would advise a self build as a way to get a cheaper house, unless you can do a lot of the work yourself. Rather it is a way to get the house that you want, built to the standards that you want, rather than a builders off the peg standard box.
You don't need to jump through all the hoops and pay fees for a house certified as a PH. Many of us are just building very well insulated, well sealed houses that we know will be very energy eficcient without having them certified as such.
The thread would not be complete without a mention of the system scaffolds like Kwikstage and cuplock.
I have a load of Kwikstage that has done my whole house right up to 4 lifts high for the end gables. While it is normally 2.4 metre by 1.2 metre (5 planks wide) I also have a few short transoms that make a narrow 3 board wide section, and a few shorter ledgers and planks that make 6ft long bays instead of the usual 8ft.
If you were expecting 10mm off the top, does only having had a couple of mm off make an important difference to your floor heights? None of our external doors would have opened if our floor had ended up 7mm higher than planned!
I have never understood the terminology of scaffolding.
a quick look at that ladders and scaffold towers site just left me more confused
If you take the 5m diy tower, it has a height of 4m, a maximum platform height of 3m and a maximum working height of 5m.
I just want to paint my windows and fascia on a bog standard house.
Ok. Topps recommending that you put additives in the adhesive to make it 'waterproof'....total waste of time and money. Water should never be getting TO the adhesive so that's not even a consideration imo unless it's a wetroom where you have to allow for that eventuality.
For wall tiling in any wet / splash area it's a no brainer, you just use cementitious adhesive ( powder mix ) which is impervious to water / moisture ingress.
I'll still use acrylic ready made stuff but only really for kitchen splash backs or large areas in bathrooms which are outside of the splash areas and if there's no tanking.
Save yourself any confusion and just stick to slow setting powder adhesive . These are called 'standard' or 'extended' set and will stay workable in the tub for up to an hour. Mix enough for a couple of m2 at a time if your a novice, and only mix more if you feel comfortable that your going to use it up in time.
With ceramic you don't need the adhesive to be flexible, so use the cheaper regular stuff.
@Ferdinand is 100% right about these additives being problematic with cleaning up / off, and I've only used an additive once, and never again. A nightmare to clean off tools, hands and anything else ( including the face / edges of the tiles themselves ). Avoid it like the plague.
I've done enough full-on wetrooms to know that you don't need to put this crap into your adhesive, even more so if it's a regular bathroom not a wetroom .
Grouting properly is the most important part of any tiling job. Mix it carefully so it just start to 'stand' on its own, eg when you remove the mixing stick / whisk the grout should just slowly slump back down, rather than fall flat. That way you can force it deep into the groutlines which is the right thing to do. A lot of novices just swipe the grout over the top of the groutlines and that's not good enough. Ram in as much as you can, and using a proper full handle grout float make that easy work. Don't use the little flat DIY grout spreader / scraper thingy as they're crap.
Also, as I've told @Onoff, don't leave the spacers in. Use them end on to space, like you'd do with tile spacer pegs, so you can pull them out when the adhesive has set.